I Finally Picked Up My U-Haul Camper Today - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 12-16-2006, 06:14 PM   #15
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Trailer: 1986 U-Haul CT13 ft
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I agree with Brian. State and national parks and forests provide a lot of great no-hookup campsites where your boys will have a great time discovering nature. Commercial campgrounds tend to pack RVs side by side like sardines, and the 'camping experience' is more like living in a condo with thin walls. Usually, campsites without hookups are quieter, less crowded, more private and more beautiful. Also cheaper. And with your UHaul's solar panel and a good battery, you can enjoy electric lights every night without hookup or generator!
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Old 12-16-2006, 06:26 PM   #16
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Trailer: 1988 Bigfoot Silver Cloud
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Glad you found a place to park your trailer.

We used indoor/outdoor carpeting from Menard's. I just vacuum it with a hand-held vac.

Previous owners just replaced the 'fridge in our Burro with a dorm 'fridge, the slightly larger kind.

We had to replace the sink faucet too, but honestly, I rarely use it. We bought one that you pump, and it is just too much work to pump it. Instead, I pump water from the drinking water jug. For hot water, I have a big 20-cup percolator that I run when I need to. Bought it for a buck at Goodwill and got a cord at the hardware store.

We added air conditioning by cutting a hole through the fiberglass at the back and putting in a cheap window air conditioner from Walmart that the hubby attached to bumper http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/index.ph...1&hl=CindyL and covered with a cut cooler to make it look natural. It also protects it.

Just a note about Ray Horner. Ebay closed his store because people were not getting their items. His forum uhaulcamper.com notes that they are not sure of the situation.

CindyL
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Old 12-16-2006, 06:38 PM   #17
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Buck,
First, congratulations on what appears to be the steal of a lifetime The time spent on the repairs only allow you to become familiar with her. A friend managed to get his Peterbilt tractor into a garage (tall doors but not tall enough) by removing the wheels, and borrowing the help of several friends and floor jacks (you know, the wheeled ones used in garages) then simply pushing it under the door. It fit with something like 1/4" clearance!
Not sure how much clearance you could gain,but maybe enough. The old adage that "there is more than one way to skin a cat", still proves true.

Another suggestion regarding the ice box door and other needed parts, is to attempt location of an RV recycling yard. Replacement ice box door gaskets can often be obtained from appliance dealers or appliance parts wholesalers (not all require contractor licenses).

Enjoy the process and the attainment of new skills. You've embarked on a unique adventure most aspects of which (including, but not limited to camping) can hopefully be shared with all the family members. Furthermore, the members of this forum are eager to vicariously share the triumphs, frustrations and their knowledge and experiences with you.

Please continue to share your progress and pictures there of, with the rest of us who utilize the forum.

Kurt & ANN K.
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Old 12-17-2006, 10:37 AM   #18
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A friend managed to get his Peterbilt tractor into a garage (tall doors but not tall enough) by removing the wheels, and borrowing the help of several friends and floor jacks (you know, the wheeled ones used in garages) then simply pushing it under the door. It fit with something like 1/4" clearance!
Not sure how much clearance you could gain,but maybe enough. The old adage that "there is more than one way to skin a cat", still proves true.
Unfortunately, my door has only 6'4" clearance, so there's no way it's ever gonna fit, even with the wheels off of it. However, I have just enough room to work on this trailer behind my garage without impeding the flow of traffic, so I should be okay. It's just a hassle to drive 40 minutes to retrieve it, then 40 minutes back to the storage spot.

Anyhoo, it looks like I'll be busy investing in some new power tools.... at least I have that to look forward to.
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Old 12-17-2006, 11:29 AM   #19
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Looks like you got a very good deal on your U Haul. The money saved will go a long way towards repairs. No matter what you paid, how new or old, you'd have a to-do-list. Don't we all! Have fun with it.

Look forward to spring and some great camping adventures with your kids.
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Old 12-17-2006, 12:01 PM   #20
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The obvious thing to do is build a new garage with a roll-up door for your previously owned U-Haul.
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Old 12-17-2006, 12:48 PM   #21
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The obvious thing to do is build a new garage with a roll-up door for your previously owned U-Haul.
Easier said than done!
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Old 12-17-2006, 10:50 PM   #22
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That sounds like a great buy! Your first trailer doesn't have to be perfect, just reliable and comfortable. I like the contrasting stripe of colored carpet running down the ceiling. I've been in a Burro with that accent, and I think it tricks the eye and makes the interior look bigger than it really is.

Think twice about ditching your propane system, though. Ours only operates the stovetop, but it's essential. It's a great convenience to be able to stop anywhere, anytime, and cook a meal immediately-- because the weather's bad, because the view is good, or just because you're hungry. Pop-up owners don't have that privlege, but we eggers do. Be aware that if you travel west (like here to Colorado, as all Chicagoans eventually do), no National Forest campgrounds and few National Park sites offer electricity. And there are a lot more of those publlc CG's out here than KOA/Jelloystone/camporamas.
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Old 12-18-2006, 12:23 AM   #23
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Buck,
I second John's advice about saving the propane system. Unless you plan on carrying a generator, and they are useable only during certain hours in many parks. Check for leaks with liquid soap, then rinse thoroughly.
There are some things which are best left as is until you've lived with the TT for a season and actually camped in her several times. We've seen too many folks get excited and make changes which were later regretted. Having 2 systems is kind of like having 2 hands, sometimes the one won't accomplish the job while the other will.
Kurt & Ann K.
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Old 12-18-2006, 07:39 AM   #24
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Trailer: Escape 5.0 TA, 2014
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I've often thought about removing the propane system from my Scamp. If for no other reason than I'd like to get rid of the stove and convert that area into more counter space. I have a microwave and toaster oven and find I use those 99.9% of the time...along with a campfire. However, the Pacific Northwet recently experienced some hurricane force winds which has knocked out power to over a million homes/businesses. IF I had been one of those people affected, I could be perfectly comfortable "living" in the Scamp for whatever period of time necessary....and all due to the fact my Scamp doesn't require electricity to be comfortable. Stove, refer and furnace...all powered by propane.
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Old 12-18-2006, 07:53 AM   #25
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I haven't figured out if the solar panel up top works or not. How does one find out???
The solar charge controller is attached to the converter, in the storage area behind the furnace. Use a voltmeter when the sun is shining to determine if there is a current. I would be surprised if the solar doesn't work, as sturdy as the campers are.

One thought to consider: if you do replace the swamp cooler with a fantastic fan, use the pump on the swamp cooler on your freshwater tank. That was the next project on my list before we sold the U-Haul.
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Old 12-22-2006, 10:30 AM   #26
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Okay, well I guess I'll do my best to keep the propane system on my U-Haul.

Upon further review, here's what I'm looking at replacing or re-doing right now....


Ball coupler (old one is a crappy design and the locking piece is worn)
Trailer jack (existing one is totally shot)
Ceiling carpet (moldy smell)
Floor carpet (moldy smell)
Refridgerator (door is cracked on existing stock fridge)
Faucett (because these's nothing there now)
Swamp cooler (replacing it with a FanTastic Fan)
Wood storage covers (two of them need to be replaced)
New wiring (old stuff looks cheap and unsafe)
Tail lights (getting new LED tail lights)
Marker lights (need extensive cleaning - filled with dirt & grime)
Total scrubout of interior (because it's "yucky" in there!)
Stove fan (old one makes loud noises)
Stove vent on outside wall (old one is nasty)
Piping for propane (old pipes are extremely rusty)
Drain plugs (old ones are shot)
Water inlet tube
Drain tubes
Ceiling needs to be re-joined and glued (it's seperating next to the swamp cooler and dipping)
New long-cushion for table area (old one is missing)
Gelcoat needs repair in 5 or 6 places
Paint job

This is all at first glance, as I haven't taken a single thing apart as of yet.

YIKES!!!.... what did I get myself into??



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Old 12-22-2006, 11:21 AM   #27
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If your ball coupler is the OEM Fulton handwheel design, it ain't "crappy" - it is about as sturdy, reliable and versatile a coupler as ever was made. That's why U-Haul used them. I've seen too many accounts of "quick" lever-type couplers popping open; industrial strength handwheel couplers stay coupled! If the one-size-fits-two spoon (1-7/8" and 2") under the coupler is worn, it can easily be replaced.
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Old 12-22-2006, 11:42 AM   #28
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If your ball coupler is the OEM Fulton handwheel design, it ain't "crappy" - it is about as sturdy, reliable and versatile a coupler as ever was made. That's why U-Haul used them. I've seen too many accounts of "quick" lever-type couplers popping open; industrial strength handwheel couplers stay coupled! If the one-size-fits-two spoon (1-7/8" and 2") under the coupler is worn, it can easily be replaced.
While I agree for the most part, the small lever that locks the wheel into place and keeps it from spinning is completely and totally shot. The grooves in the wheel itself are also rounded out and worn. I'd have to have someone fabricate a new lever piece and wheel-piece, which would be more costly than replacing the whole coupler. Besides, a hitch-pin through the lever/release handle locks it down just fine. Believe me, if you saw it you'd know that it's pretty much a lost cause.
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