Joe's EggCamper Journal - Page 13 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-27-2017, 08:57 PM   #169
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Gotta love those instructions Joe.....not. It is amazing how many times you can find something so simple not included in them. I've had instructions in the box that weren't even for the item. But we're guys and we don't need any stinking instructions . Just a thought about the micro disconnect. Any chance of installing a regular wall switch that feeds the micros plug that may make it easier to get at? I'd have to pull my micro out to unplug it.
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Old 08-28-2017, 05:59 AM   #170
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Oh yeah, Joe, I was going to suggest that!

Naw, I had absolutely no idea whatsoever. I was clueless.

But, it certainly makes sense. This is a part of the forum that is helpful, when we learn from what happened to others, so thanks for posting. Hopefully I can be the one to take the hit and benefit others with a "lesson learned" some time!

Oh, and like you said, you did save a ton on the new hardware, so there's that to keep in mind!

As to the power supply to the microwave, I'm thinking programmable logic controller with load-shedding relays, what do you think?! We can get that extra money spent somehow!
Hey Mike - yea it was frustrating! I should have realized when I read it in the "quick reference" but the instructions sure would be fool proof had it been included as a step!! I also ran dino oil on the 4 hours break in then switched to Mobil 1. In the same "quick reference" it states to run synthetic. I sure hope I didnt hurt the gen. Ran her maybe 4 hours on the old plug and dino. Its probably ok tho. As for that programmable logic load spinning controller device....hahaha....no offense, but I may have to use Dave's suggestion below!!

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Originally Posted by Borrego Dave View Post
Gotta love those instructions Joe.....not. It is amazing how many times you can find something so simple not included in them. I've had instructions in the box that weren't even for the item. But we're guys and we don't need any stinking instructions . Just a thought about the micro disconnect. Any chance of installing a regular wall switch that feeds the micros plug that may make it easier to get at? I'd have to pull my micro out to unplug it.
Hi Dave. I think you hit the nail on the head! Luckily the microwave plugs in to the bottom of the cabinet next to the microwave and not behind it! So the plug is very easy to get to! But yes, I think I'll just add a switch/socket instead of a dual socket. Just a couple screws and done! Thanks for the idea!
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Old 08-28-2017, 11:16 AM   #171
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Originally Posted by JWScarab View Post
Propane & Nat. Gas Kits for Honda Generators

Jason, on their link, it states 0.7lbs usage at 400w, 0.92lbs at 800w, and 1.6lbs at 1600w.

The description does say "propane demand regulator". So maybe the regulator somehow opens up on demand? But how does it know the demand?

You must have regulated LP going into the gen - I used a standard 11-15wc regulator at the tank. But you can also use the inline regulator with the kit. So this is actually regulated twice.

The only thing I can think of is if somehow it regulates propane flow by the vacuum created thru the LP feed hose by the carb??

IDK - its over my head....
I don't know if its the kit you used, but I watched a YouTube video to get a better idea of what the install entailed. In that video the installer mentions you need to adjust the regulator based on the rated output of the generator. There is a screw that is bottomed then backed out 1/4 turn for every 1/4 HP (I think).

I think these kits just allow the engine to run a little rich at idle (in ECO) then it may run a little lean at full load. Most of the time I bet generators are running only part load and since propane runs so clean it doesn't hurt it.

Interesting term "propane demand regulator". I wonder if the vacuum signal from the engine will cause the regulator to increase or decrease flow? And how does it do that down the same hose? BTW there is just one hose to the engine, right?

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Old 08-28-2017, 12:39 PM   #172
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Hi Jason,

This kit I bought is set by Genconnex for the particular make/model of gen, so there is no adjustment necessary. The propane demand regulator in the kit is here:



The guy doesnt say wether the valve just opens and closes or opens more with more vacuum, but somebody asked him in the comments below the video and his answer is this:

The Demand Regulator is more than a cut-off. The Demand Regulator meters out the vapor based on the volume of air through the carb area ie throat of the intake manifold.

So this makes sense. The more vacuum pulled from the carb, the more the valve opens and allows more flow. It seems to be an adjustable flow - not fixed. That would explain the different usages per loads. There is only one hose going from the outlet of this regulator to the carb plate.
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Old 08-28-2017, 01:51 PM   #173
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My understanding of the following is minimal but it comes from a person who is knows quite a bit about it. You can research the topic further on the internet. No use asking me questions about this as I can't answer them.

You power the AC device through a inverter that is properly sized for the load. The inverter is of course hooked to your deep cycle battery that has a sufficient sized capacity. The generator is hooked to supply power to your battery. The battery can withstand/absorb the startup load without the generator being overpowered and put into shutdown or fault mode.
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Old 08-29-2017, 03:24 PM   #174
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Hi Joe,

Yeah, it appears your kit does draw more vapor depending on load. As I was reading on their web site they do say they have pre-adjusted the regulators so it should be bolt on. Several of the other kits I have found are not pre-adjusted, so that's probably what I was seeing.

I need to find a kit for my Champion.

Jason
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Old 12-29-2017, 09:04 PM   #175
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Well with this cold weather not a whole lot going on!! We stripped the Egg for winter storage and luckily our friends who built a detached garage have not filled it up yet! So our egg is in inside storage for one more year! I am planning more bike rack/kayak rack which is NOT turning out to be cheap! I never imagined having more invested in a kayak rack then the 2 kayaks cost! I wish I could weld!! The bike/kayak plans are changing daily uuggg so Ill wait till its all figured out to post the details.

Anyway, A winter pic taken TODAY in cold cold weather! Cant wait till spring!! Hope all had a Merry Christmas and will enjoy a great New Year!!
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Old 12-29-2017, 09:16 PM   #176
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Front Kayak Rack

Well just a part of the puzzle. This is the front Kayak rack. Its a single bar Yakima rack. The mounts are called Q-towers, and the bar is a 78", The truck is a 2011 Silverado Regular Cab and the q-clips are Q-118. Its much more utilitiarian look then I would prefer, but I think in this case its best to go with a wider bar than sporty looks. Still working on the rear kayak bar, and the final bike rack mount - will post more as it all gels. Sometimes your plans just need to change on the fly due to unforeseen issues.......
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Old 12-29-2017, 09:32 PM   #177
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I was advised many years ago that I should not place my racks on the cab of the truck and on my canopy because the bed of the truck and the cab twist in different directions, going over uneven surfaces, which would twist my canoe.
You could mount another rack to the front bumper so that both racks are attached to the cab.
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Old 12-29-2017, 11:38 PM   #178
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I was advised many years ago that I should not place my racks on the cab of the truck and on my canopy because the bed of the truck and the cab twist in different directions, going over uneven surfaces, which would twist my canoe.
You could mount another rack to the front bumper so that both racks are attached to the cab.
Good point Glenn but in thinking about the flex/twist I have to wonder if in normal road use like an angled driveway ramp would really make much of a difference to a composite canoe or kayak, you're not rock crawling . With a wooden boat I can see some possible damage though.
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Old 12-29-2017, 11:45 PM   #179
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I didn't test the advice. But I have seen the flex that happens just driving over a mall speed bump at an angle.
Hit more than a few rocks with my canoe too.
Put both racks on the bed or both on the cab somehow.
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Old 12-30-2017, 12:05 AM   #180
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I wish I could weld!!

Joe, pick up a wire feed and give it a go. I bought a Hobart Handler 135 years ago and burned a lot of wire learning but wire is cheap . Just one of life's learning experiences......kind of nice to have on hand too .
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Old 12-30-2017, 12:36 AM   #181
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I have seen the flex that happens just driving over a mall speed bump at an angle.
My first RV was a F 250 w/a 9' cabover camper. Going down some hairy backcountry fire roads the camper, over hanging the truck cab, would almost touch the roof on one side and disappear from view on the other side. That's some frame flex and nothing broke.
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Old 12-30-2017, 12:57 AM   #182
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But, you didn't have the front portion of the camper attached to the roof of your cab, did you? I think your experience illustrates the forces at work.
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