Leveling blocks, etc. for solo? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-01-2017, 12:27 PM   #15
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Name: Henry
Trailer: Casita
Tennessee
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I have used wooden 2x6 and 1x6, then plastic, then Bal, now Andersen.

Plastic and wood was ok, but took too long.

I have 15" wheels and load range E tires on my 17' Casita because we go into very primitive areas, would not have smaller wheels. I like plenty of ground clearance.

The Bal will not fit unless the tire is resting on flat pavement, or unless I first put the tire on a small piece of wood so the Bal slides under. Does not work in soft ground, just won't go under the tire. It is heavy, awkward and dirty and tiresome to use.

I now use the Andersen and have only once needed blocks of plastic under the tire because the site was so slanted. It is much easier and faster than the Bal, which now sits at home. We RV usually 2 to 4 months at a time at least once a year. Other times, closer to home, for a week or so.
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Old 09-01-2017, 12:28 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman View Post
I leave the trailer hooked up until I've leveled side to side with the Bal Leveler. Then I unhook, lower the front until the trailer about 1/2 front low, deploy the stabilizers and raise the front to level. Light the fridge and I'm done.

I don't think the BAL takes any longer to set up than blocks or Anderson. And I can put the trailer where I want to without messing around.
I'm not sure about the 15" tires but who has 15" tires on their single axle trailer?
I had them on my Escape 17B.
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Old 09-01-2017, 12:55 PM   #17
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15" tires and BAL leveler

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Originally Posted by Jon Vermilye View Post
I had them on my Escape 17B.
According to Amazon's web sit the specification are copied below. Should clear up any misconceptions about tire size that can be used.

  • "Eliminates the need for moving trailer onto blocks or ramps
  • Fits 13", 14", & most 15" wheels
  • Includes a ratchet wrench that can be used to turn the drive screw, elevating or lowering the tire lifting pads to the level position."
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Old 09-01-2017, 01:40 PM   #18
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I don't want to get into an argument as to which is better since each has its advantages. Like Henry, I had problems getting the BAL leveler under my ST 205/75/15 tire when on soft surfaces such as grass or loose gravel. Other than that and storage, I like the fact that you can re level the trailer without needing to re hook to the tow vehicle.
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Old 09-01-2017, 02:25 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Jon Vermilye View Post
I don't want to get into an argument as to which is better since each has its advantages. Like Henry, I had problems getting the BAL leveler under my ST 205/75/15 tire when on soft surfaces such as grass or loose gravel. Other than that and storage, I like the fact that you can re level the trailer without needing to re hook to the tow vehicle.
What ever works best for you. Arguing about which is better is not a good thing. What's better for you might not be better for me or the other way around. I think it's good to know the options. When I bought my trailer Anderson levelers were not an option, so I bought the BAL and for me it's been great.

As with many things some people find blocks of wood easiest to carry and use vs some other leveling item(s). That's OK Discussion concerning the pros and cons and misconceptions is valuable as long as it not taken personally. This helps other make a good decision for themselves.
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Old 09-01-2017, 02:38 PM   #20
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I run 225/75R15s. Won't fit these tires now, period. Did fit the original 15", bought new from Casita, not sure what size they were.

One thing you could do is run up on an angled 2x6 wood block, then roll unto the Bal. That should work. Then roll out the same way.

I did have some problem with the ratchet that came with the Bal, it does not afford much leverage, so I sometimes used a 18" socket wrench, which made it a lot easier. At home I would just use my 18v drill with the socket. If I remember correctly, the socket was hard to find because it is square.

I see you live in GA. If you ever run through TN on I40, I live just east of Nashville, and 17 miles south on I 840. Send me a private email and I will meet you or you can come over and I will give it to you.
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Old 09-01-2017, 09:22 PM   #21
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I use Andersen and it works great for me. At most angles I can even see how far up it I am through the side view mirrors. Still requires getting in and out to get things just right, but that's all part of the deal.

A couple things...I bought the Andersen Rapid Jack rather than the leveler. The level didn't give me enough leveling/lift for some areas, including streets with gutters. I saw a friends neighbor with his camper parked on the street in front of his house using an Andersen Level...with a 2x4 under it. Depending on where you camp, it might not be enough. I camp everywhere. The rapid jack is bigger. I also have a 2x6 for times when I'm just a little off level and the Andersen is too much. You can still make it work but sometimes a board is just more convenient.

Leveling solo is just another skill you learn and really no big deal no matter what method you use. You'll get good at it.
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Old 09-01-2017, 10:03 PM   #22
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Thank you Zach for the Andersen Rapid Jack comment. I did not know they made this. I have the 3604 which is only 4' high, this is 6". I will order asap, this is must have in my book.
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Old 09-01-2017, 10:44 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZachO View Post
I use Andersen and it works great for me. At most angles I can even see how far up it I am through the side view mirrors. Still requires getting in and out to get things just right, but that's all part of the deal.

A couple things...I bought the Andersen Rapid Jack rather than the leveler. The level didn't give me enough leveling/lift for some areas, including streets with gutters. I saw a friends neighbor with his camper parked on the street in front of his house using an Andersen Level...with a 2x4 under it. Depending on where you camp, it might not be enough. I camp everywhere. The rapid jack is bigger. I also have a 2x6 for times when I'm just a little off level and the Andersen is too much. You can still make it work but sometimes a board is just more convenient.

Leveling solo is just another skill you learn and really no big deal no matter what method you use. You'll get good at it.
With my BAL leveler I can and have raised the wheel about foot off the ground. I found one spot in NE Texas campground that I couldn't get trailer level with it side to side and couldn't get the trailer level front to back. I had to leave and go find another place to stay. But that's the one and only time out hundreds of different camp sites, some not even camp sites.
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Old 09-02-2017, 04:23 AM   #24
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just getting to the SOLO issue of the problem, my method is to back into the spot I want to be,,, Make a line, in dirt, with my foot out the drivers door... Leaving door open, Pull straight forward about 2 feet... set up my blocks 2 feet behind wheel,,,, Get back in drivers seat and pull back to where line is.
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Old 09-02-2017, 06:52 AM   #25
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Similar process to Gerry's above.

Years ago I built a stair stepped ramp from three pieces of 2" x 6" hardwood (24", 16" and 8" lengths) fastened together one on top of the other with the ends flush on one side and beveled on the other. After backing into the site a couple of feet further than I want to be, I'll get out, check the graduated level and can tell from the bubble's position on the scale which side needs to be raised and, from experience, by how much. I then put the low end of the 'ramp' directly in front of the wheel needing adjustment and pull forward until the trailer bumps up (easily felt and visible in the mirrors) one, two or three times depending on how much lift is necessary. I do carry more blocks if the delta is greater than six inches but that's very seldom.

This was first used with our 16' (03-10) and now with our 19'er. Plenty of room in the bed of the truck for it and no fuss if its muddy when we break camp.
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Old 09-02-2017, 08:39 AM   #26
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I will second the recommendation for the Andersen levelers. On a single axle light trailer the BAL is quick and easy, but on a tandem like my 19, you'd need two (expensive), and you'd need to pay attention to tire spacing and weight. From what I've read the BAL has a weight limit of 1750 lbs. With blocks or solid levelers there is no such thing. Of course you'll need to get in and out a couple times to level when you're solo, but I've set up ours solo many times and it's not a big deal.

Speaking of BAL, I love their X-Chocks, and wouldn't be without them.
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Old 09-02-2017, 09:10 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman View Post
With my BAL leveler I can and have raised the wheel about foot off the ground. I found one spot in NE Texas campground that I couldn't get trailer level with it side to side and couldn't get the trailer level front to back. I had to leave and go find another place to stay. But that's the one and only time out hundreds of different camp sites, some not even camp sites.
Wow! I've never looked into the BAL and I'm not in need of a new system, but after all the talk about it here, I'm definitely going to look it up. A foot is a lot of lift. Looks like at least something I should know about.
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Old 09-02-2017, 11:26 AM   #28
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We often stop for one night while traveling and want to be level and stable while still hitched. I carry 6 2x6s with 45 deg cuts on the ends so that they're easier to drive on/off or stacked for more lift. After checking right/left and front/ back where I want to be, I can usually guess where and how much lift I need. Bring the front of the TV up to lower the ball or the rear to raise it along with right/left as needed. Drop the rear stabilizers and and lift the front slightly, even if it brings the TV up a little bit. Works for me.

Lynn
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