Maintenance & Restoration

ZachO · 09-01-2017, 09:22 PM

I use Andersen and it works great for me. At most angles I can even see how far up it I am through the side view mirrors. Still requires getting in and out to get things just right, but that's all part of the deal.

A couple things...I bought the Andersen Rapid Jack rather than the leveler. The level didn't give me enough leveling/lift for some areas, including streets with gutters. I saw a friends neighbor with his camper parked on the street in front of his house using an Andersen Level...with a 2x4 under it. Depending on where you camp, it might not be enough. I camp everywhere. The rapid jack is bigger. I also have a 2x6 for times when I'm just a little off level and the Andersen is too much. You can still make it work but sometimes a board is just more convenient.

Leveling solo is just another skill you learn and really no big deal no matter what method you use. You'll get good at it.

Rzrbrn · 09-01-2017, 10:03 PM

Thank you Zach for the Andersen Rapid Jack comment. I did not know they made this. I have the 3604 which is only 4' high, this is 6". I will order asap, this is must have in my book.

Byron Kinnaman · 09-01-2017, 10:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZachO

I use Andersen and it works great for me. At most angles I can even see how far up it I am through the side view mirrors. Still requires getting in and out to get things just right, but that's all part of the deal.

A couple things...I bought the Andersen Rapid Jack rather than the leveler. The level didn't give me enough leveling/lift for some areas, including streets with gutters. I saw a friends neighbor with his camper parked on the street in front of his house using an Andersen Level...with a 2x4 under it. Depending on where you camp, it might not be enough. I camp everywhere. The rapid jack is bigger. I also have a 2x6 for times when I'm just a little off level and the Andersen is too much. You can still make it work but sometimes a board is just more convenient.

Leveling solo is just another skill you learn and really no big deal no matter what method you use. You'll get good at it.

With my BAL leveler I can and have raised the wheel about foot off the ground. I found one spot in NE Texas campground that I couldn't get trailer level with it side to side and couldn't get the trailer level front to back. I had to leave and go find another place to stay. But that's the one and only time out hundreds of different camp sites, some not even camp sites.

Gerry · 09-02-2017, 04:23 AM

just getting to the SOLO issue of the problem, my method is to back into the spot I want to be,,, Make a line, in dirt, with my foot out the drivers door... Leaving door open, Pull straight forward about 2 feet... set up my blocks 2 feet behind wheel,,,, Get back in drivers seat and pull back to where line is.

Al and Cindy K · 09-02-2017, 06:52 AM

Similar process to Gerry's above.

Years ago I built a stair stepped ramp from three pieces of 2" x 6" hardwood (24", 16" and 8" lengths) fastened together one on top of the other with the ends flush on one side and beveled on the other. After backing into the site a couple of feet further than I want to be, I'll get out, check the graduated level and can tell from the bubble's position on the scale which side needs to be raised and, from experience, by how much. I then put the low end of the 'ramp' directly in front of the wheel needing adjustment and pull forward until the trailer bumps up (easily felt and visible in the mirrors) one, two or three times depending on how much lift is necessary. I do carry more blocks if the delta is greater than six inches but that's very seldom.

This was first used with our 16' (03-10) and now with our 19'er. Plenty of room in the bed of the truck for it and no fuss if its muddy when we break camp.

rbryan · 09-02-2017, 08:39 AM

I will second the recommendation for the Andersen levelers. On a single axle light trailer the BAL is quick and easy, but on a tandem like my 19, you'd need two (expensive), and you'd need to pay attention to tire spacing and weight. From what I've read the BAL has a weight limit of 1750 lbs. With blocks or solid levelers there is no such thing. Of course you'll need to get in and out a couple times to level when you're solo, but I've set up ours solo many times and it's not a big deal.

Speaking of BAL, I love their X-Chocks, and wouldn't be without them.

ZachO · 09-02-2017, 09:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman

With my BAL leveler I can and have raised the wheel about foot off the ground. I found one spot in NE Texas campground that I couldn't get trailer level with it side to side and couldn't get the trailer level front to back. I had to leave and go find another place to stay. But that's the one and only time out hundreds of different camp sites, some not even camp sites.

Wow! I've never looked into the BAL and I'm not in need of a new system, but after all the talk about it here, I'm definitely going to look it up. A foot is a lot of lift. Looks like at least something I should know about.

Lynn Eberhardt · 09-02-2017, 11:26 AM

We often stop for one night while traveling and want to be level and stable while still hitched. I carry 6 2x6s with 45 deg cuts on the ends so that they're easier to drive on/off or stacked for more lift. After checking right/left and front/ back where I want to be, I can usually guess where and how much lift I need. Bring the front of the TV up to lower the ball or the rear to raise it along with right/left as needed. Drop the rear stabilizers and and lift the front slightly, even if it brings the TV up a little bit. Works for me.

Lynn

Donna D. · 09-02-2017, 11:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman

I'm not sure about the 15" tires but who has 15" tires on their single axle trailer?

Me

When I had the axle replaced on the Scamp, I had an axle put on that would accommodate 15" tires to fit in the wheel wells. I run ST205/75 R15 tires. The BAL leveler works just fine.

And I think most Casitas do too.

stevebaz · 09-02-2017, 03:38 PM

I use 2 bags of leggo blocks. Some go under the tire and some go under the stablizer jacks and some go under the tounge jack. Then you still need wheel chocks. We boondock camp so occaisonally you need more than a simple couple of inches to get it set up, level and stable.