Leveling blocks or jacks? - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-01-2016, 09:15 PM   #1
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Name: Steve Robison
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Leveling blocks or jacks?

So I saw these Lego-ish looking blocks that you drive your camper on to level it. I was just planning on using car jacks under the bumper to level my Scamp 13. Is there any reason I shouldn't use car jacks under the bumper?

I figured by using them I'm also supporting the back of the trailer so it doesn't tip backwards, whereas with the leveling blocks you'd still have to use something in the back.
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Old 05-01-2016, 09:21 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by Bluetang99 View Post
So I saw these Lego-ish looking blocks that you drive your camper on to level it. I was just planning on using car jacks under the bumper to level my Scamp 13. Is there any reason I shouldn't use car jacks under the bumper?

I figured by using them I'm also supporting the back of the trailer so it doesn't tip backwards, whereas with the leveling blocks you'd still have to use something in the back.
you don't want to lift the trailer at the bumper. You could twist the frame. The proper way to level and stabilize is to raise the lower side at the wheel (side-to-side) and use the tongue jack to level front to back. Some have stabilizers attached to the rear bumper. Used to prevent any rocking motion. That's why they're called stabilizers (not jacks).
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Old 05-01-2016, 09:24 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Bluetang99 View Post
So I saw these Lego-ish looking blocks that you drive your camper on to level it. I was just planning on using car jacks under the bumper to level my Scamp 13. Is there any reason I shouldn't use car jacks under the bumper?

I figured by using them I'm also supporting the back of the trailer so it doesn't tip backwards, whereas with the leveling blocks you'd still have to use something in the back.
Scamp trailers come with rear stabilizes to steady the trailer .
The stabilizers are attached to the frame
The rear bumper is not designed nor built for jacking up the trailer
just like the bumpers on your car are not used to jack up the car
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Old 05-01-2016, 09:31 PM   #4
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Name: Steve Robison
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Ok that makes sense so then it looks like I'll need both since mine doesn't come with stabilizers under the bumper. Unless the stabilizers would be cheaper then jacks.

The only issue I can see with leveling blocks is pushing the camper up them. Since our camper is so small I plan on having the camper perpendicular in our camping spot so the door faces the lake so I won't necessarily be able to drive up the blocks. But maybe both of us will be able to push it up onto them since it might only require one block to level it.
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Old 05-01-2016, 09:41 PM   #5
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For side to side leveling I use a BAL Small Trailer Wheel Leveler.
My procedure is like this,
Pull or back into the side. Get out the BAL leveler and put under the low side wheel. Jack the BAL Leveler to make the trailer level side to side NOT: the BAL leveler is a great set chocks by default.
Once the trailer is leveled side to side with leveler then I unhook and pull the tow away.
Now I lower the front with tongue jack until it's about 1/2 bubble low, the deploy the rear stabilizers, then jack up the front with the tongue jack until level. This put a little pressure on the stabilizers so that they work properly.
Next I turn on the propane and light the fridge. Now it's time to sit back and enjoy a cold beverage.
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Old 05-01-2016, 09:44 PM   #6
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Try here:

Trailer Stabilizer | etrailer.com

On a 13 foot Scamp the 650 lb rating should be fine, as that is per unit, or 1200 lbs total.

Level your trailer with the tongue jack and with the front on the trailer just barely nose down, drop the stabilizers. Then jack the tongue to level, which will tension the stabilizers.

Mine bolt on with 2 thru bolts.

The Lynx (Lego) levelers are cheap, easy to use and can be used elsewhere in the campground where you might need a bigger foot print.

Traveling in a small trailer requires carrying items that are multi-use. There is no need to get fancy. Lots of folks use pieces of 2x lumber for this, but they can get slippery, are heavier and don't come with a nice zip carrier.
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Old 05-01-2016, 09:44 PM   #7
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Stabilizers can be acquired from Scamp at about $16.00 each (two are needed). You might want to check again to see if they there. They hid pretty good behind the bumper. Also there should be two bolts on each side on top of the bumper to hold the stabilizers in place.
One more thing don't order from the Scamp web site, call and order over the phone. Big difference in shipping charges.
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Old 05-01-2016, 09:50 PM   #8
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Name: Steve Robison
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Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman View Post
Stabilizers can be acquired from Scamp at about $16.00 each (two are needed). You might want to check again to see if they there. They hid pretty good behind the bumper. Also there should be two bolts on each side on top of the bumper to hold the stabilizers in place.
One more thing don't order from the Scamp web site, call and order over the phone. Big difference in shipping charges.
I had no idea I could even order from the Scamp website. On my last phone order the shipping charges weren't too bad because I ordered a 12 gallon water tank and they were able to stuff like 6-7 other things in the box for around $30 shipping.

I did take a good look under the camper and there is nothing.
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Old 05-02-2016, 09:16 AM   #9
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Leveling blocks or jacks?

I'll second the BAL leveler in your situation. It's the only one that works with the tow vehicle unhitched. Please be extremely careful moving the trailer when unhitched. It wouldn't take much of a slope for it to get away from you.

Carrying a few of the Lego-type levelers is a good idea even if you buy the BAL. They're handy for putting under the stabilizers on soft surfaces, leveling a picnic table,...

You do want stabilizers to take the bounce out of the suspension. The factory Atwoods work fine for me, but there are alternatives. If you do a google site search on "stabilizers" you should find some discussions of different types. I agree with those who say not to use crank-up jacks to level the trailer. The frame is only designed to be lifted from the tongue jack and on the main frame rail near the axle (when changing a tire). The rear, especially, doesn't have a lot of cross-bracing and won't take twisting forces well.
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Old 05-02-2016, 09:33 AM   #10
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Name: carolyn
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We bevel both ends of a 2x6 board to drive up on if needed. Also we have a 1x4 piece of treated wood to place under the stabilizers in case we are in sand. Also use a 1x4 under the awning feet. We have a large plastic tub to store dirty (or wet) things in the back of the tow vehicle.
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Old 05-02-2016, 09:33 AM   #11
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Don't know if one of these would work for your situation or not, just another idea for you to toss around. I know that if you ever had a tire that needed changing you would have the convenience of a hydraulic jack and the safety of a jack-stand all in one.
Powerbuilt 3 Ton All-in-One Jack - For Life Out Here
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Old 05-02-2016, 09:42 AM   #12
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Name: Patrick
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Take the advise that Donna D. supplied in reply #2.

I am old school and use boards (2X6 or 2X8), plus a block to create a ramp to raise the trailer's wheel(s) on the low side....then the tounge Jack to level front to back.
Never use the stabilizers to support the trailer's weight!

The reason you level the trailer are: To protect the refrigeration's system (it should be level to work properly). And for your comfort (so you don't fall out of bed). The stabilizers just prevent the trailer from rocking (If the trailer is rocking don't come a knocking!).

The LEGO Blocks are used like the old board method under the tires on the low side.

Don't forget the wheel chocks to prevent a roll-away!

There are dozens of items available to assist in leveling your trailer...new ones pop-up every year...always looking for that better mouse trap! They all try to take the hassle out of the leveling process.

Happy Camping!
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Old 05-02-2016, 09:54 AM   #13
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Name: Darral
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It took me a while to grasp this concept: Level side-to-side at the wheels. Forward and aft at the hitch. Stabilize-ONLY at the rear bumper.

Camping World has a good sale on these blocks I use. I 'stair-step' them to pull/back up on if I if I use more than two blocks which I havent had to so far. I also place a block in front and back of the block that's under the wheel. This allows me to "chock" the raised wheel as it would if it was on the ground. Also with the blocks, you can park right up to a concrete pad at campsites. I've ran into this SEVERAL times. You cant do that with a "Bal" if it's on the "curb", passenger or door side of your rig. Otherwise, I DO like the Bal concept because it's quick, easy and self-chocking.

I use the Scamp stabilizers at the rear to steady the trailer. ALSO, keep in mind that on the 13', if you have a light tongue weight and put too many people at the table in the rear of the trailer and no stabilizers are down, it COULD pop a 'wheelie'!

Here's the CW blocks:
RV Leveling Blocks, 10 pack - Cp Technologies Company RKCW819010 - Chocks & Levelers - Camping World
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Old 05-02-2016, 09:59 AM   #14
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Name: Gordon
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Originally Posted by steve dunham View Post
Scamp trailers come with rear stabilizes to steady the trailer .
The stabilizers are attached to the frame ...
Did you mean that last word to be bumper?
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