Lil Snoozy jack knife sofa - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV

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Old 07-27-2014, 06:32 PM   #15
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Name: Michael
Trailer: Li'l Hauley
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Talk to the folks at Snoozy about what you want. I bet they can come up with a good solution.

I think someone even had one made with two twin beds up front, running side by side with a night stand in between. Or at least I saw a drawing.

How to prepare Tofu
Step 1: throw tofu in the trash
Step 2: grill some meat
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Old 07-27-2014, 08:16 PM   #16
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Name: Sally
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You've convinced me!

You've convinced me. I'll forgo the sofa altogether and put in a folding bench with a bottom cushion and a back cushion (plus a little back wedge). That way I can make it just the right height so my feet can stick out into the big bed.

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Old 07-27-2014, 08:43 PM   #17
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Name: jim
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twin bed

Go look up mcdenny he had them make a smaller bed 36 in across and a 30 in couch where the jacknife couch goes or look up twin bed model like mine
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Old 07-27-2014, 09:06 PM   #18
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Name: Sally
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Well, I want something larger than just a twin bed. We travel with two little dogs, and despite being little, they do take up room. I'd like a 3/4 or full size bed. After all, HD will get the "big bed!"
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Old 08-06-2014, 09:34 PM   #19
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Name: Dale
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Sallye, I'm not sure you ever got an answer to your question about hydraulic trailer braking systems. I'm not an expert, but I can give you the basics. Built within the trailer hitch, there is a hydraulic master cylinder. Then there are hydraulic fluid lines to the brakes where there are slave cylinders. When towing, the trailer behind you has motion inertia. If you step on the brakes to slow the tow vehicle, the faster motion of the trailer essentially tries to push the tow vehicle a bit. This compresses the master hydraulic cylinder in the tongue, which forces hydraulic fluid to the slave cylinders which activates the brakes. Once the trailer brakes slow the trailer down enough to match the speed of the tow vehicle without pushing, then a spring built into the tongue pushes the master cylinder back out - releasing the pressure off the hydraulic fluid, releasing the brakes. It's a pretty delicate balance, but essentially the trailer brakes itself anytime it starts to push against the tow vehicle. No need for brake controller in the tow vehicle, 7-pin receptacle, electrical wires between the tow vehicle and the trailer, etc. It generally works great unless: 1) you are constantly and drastically changing the weight carried on or in the trailer, or 2) you have long, steep downhill grades where the trailer is constantly pushing the tow vehicle and there is no way to let up on the brakes to dissipate some of the heat being generated between the brake linings and the brake drum. I would imagine more expensive hydraulic trailer brake systems for "big boy" trailers have fixes for both of the above, but I doubt if that's the case with the Lil' Snoozy system given the relatively light weight of the camper. But that would be a good question to ask them. Note that without electric brakes, you also don't have a way to manually brake the trailer if trailer sway is a problem (probably not going to be a problem with a quality camper like Lil' Snoozy). I hope my explanation is somewhere near correct (if not, someone more knowledgeable please make corrections), and I hope it makes sense - mostly.
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Old 08-06-2014, 11:32 PM   #20
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Name: Dave
Trailer: Casita SD17 2006
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I think Dale's post on surge brakes is right on. I would only add that with backing up...up a incline they will be giving you some braking power. Most I've seen will allow you to put a pin in the coupler to keep it from moving to apply the brakes. I had this set up on a car trailer I used to haul the buggy and bikes to the desert and never had a problem even dropping 3500' in 11 miles and 86 sharp curves...but who was counting . Surge brakes on utility, cargo or boat trailers afe fine but they don't often travel the long miles that TT's do. Just my 2 cents worth.

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