Lil Snoozy Site is now OPEN! - Page 7 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 11-03-2011, 09:17 PM   #85
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Name: David
Trailer: 16 foot Scamp
Oregon
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The claimed dry weight of the 16 footer is 2100 pounds. I haven't compared the options closely, but that doesn't exactly blow me away. Even the smallest truck camper they sell is 900 punds dry. They don't have any aerodynamic advantage going either. I think the ideal would be an aluminum frame and subfloor with fiberglass shell. Unless they offered a huge benefit in weight I would prefer fiberglass as well.

On another note, I think it is pretty nice that Snoozy has tackled two of the most irritating, obvious, and avoidable construction problems with these trailers: floor rot and frame rust. Apparenly most manufacturers believe there is no benefit to them to offer these advantages. I hope Snoozy is rewarded for their efforts.

David
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Old 11-04-2011, 04:39 PM   #86
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The claimed dry weight of the 16 footer is 2100 pounds. I haven't compared the options closely, but that doesn't exactly blow me away. Even the smallest truck camper they sell is 900 punds dry. They don't have any aerodynamic advantage going either. I think the ideal would be an aluminum frame and subfloor with fiberglass shell. Unless they offered a huge benefit in weight I would prefer fiberglass as well.

On another note, I think it is pretty nice that Snoozy has tackled two of the most irritating, obvious, and avoidable construction problems with these trailers: floor rot and frame rust. Apparenly most manufacturers believe there is no benefit to them to offer these advantages. I hope Snoozy is rewarded for their efforts.

David
I have owned several brands over 30years old and long neglected and I have not had to repair any frames due to rust.
There are many approaches to floors however....
Examples...
Trillium... Great floors.. attachment points can need attention.

Scamp... like most of it's siblings, neglect can cause difficult problems,but floor rot is easily prevented.

Compact Jr.... Plywood center , can rot but relatively easy to replace.

TrailsWest Campster.... Fiberglass box with exposed plywood inside, can rot and make a messy project, but won't effect the solid structure.

LoveBug... See Scamp

I have owned each of the above and more, All suffering from neglect with no insurmountable problems in the refit. Of course I have turned down a few opportunities as well.
In general, When I see a fiberglass travel trailer less than 20 years old, I think Ahh!!!...Look...A late model!
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Old 11-04-2011, 09:15 PM   #87
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Name: David
Trailer: 16 foot Scamp
Oregon
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I have owned several brands over 30years old and long neglected and I have not had to repair any frames due to rust.
There are many approaches to floors however....
Examples...
Trillium... Great floors.. attachment points can need attention.

Scamp... like most of it's siblings, neglect can cause difficult problems,but floor rot is easily prevented.

Compact Jr.... Plywood center , can rot but relatively easy to replace.

TrailsWest Campster.... Fiberglass box with exposed plywood inside, can rot and make a messy project, but won't effect the solid structure.

LoveBug... See Scamp

I have owned each of the above and more, All suffering from neglect with no insurmountable problems in the refit. Of course I have turned down a few opportunities as well.
In general, When I see a fiberglass travel trailer less than 20 years old, I think Ahh!!!...Look...A late model!
Well, my 2010 is already showing some rust through the frame paint. That bothers me because I maintain everything I own very well. The reason I have rust so soon is simple. It's because they did not use any of the readily available means to prevent it. Sand blast + epoxy chromate primer + catalyzed polyurethane paint, or sand blast + powdercoat, or acid wash + galvanize. Any of these would get you a 50 year frame. They gave it a quick coat of black paint and rolled it out. In a couple of years I'll be under my trailer with a wire wheel covered in filth and redoing something that could have been avoided. It's not a matter of whether it is insurmountable or not. Why should I have to surmount anything? The reason that I made the comment about Lil Snoozy is because they recognized the need and did something about it. Same goes for the floors. We are not sending a man to Mars here. Floor rot need not ever be a problem. We have the means to stop it. The underside of my chipboard floor is pretty well sealed, but an undetected interior leak could cause some pretty good damage in a short period of time. Completely avoidable. The question is, will anyone appreciate that Snoozy has addressed these issues? These things add cost to the production. They mean something to me, and I'm hoping I'm not the only one.

I have no axe to grind with Scamp. I like my trailer, and I think Scamp is a good company. Lots of reasons to reccommend them. It doesn't change the fact that corners were cut on finishing my frame, and I'll be the one paying for that eventually. They know it and I know it.

I have no connection to Lil Snoozy either, just a tip of the hat to what I consider to be a job well (better) done.

David
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Old 11-04-2011, 09:34 PM   #88
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Well, my 2010 is already showing some rust through the frame paint. That bothers me because I maintain everything I own very well. The reason I have rust so soon is simple. It's because they did not use any of the readily available means to prevent it. Sand blast + epoxy chromate primer + catalyzed polyurethane paint, or sand blast + powdercoat, or acid wash + galvanize. Any of these would get you a 50 year frame. They gave it a quick coat of black paint and rolled it out. In a couple of years I'll be under my trailer with a wire wheel covered in filth and redoing something that could have been avoided. It's not a matter of whether it is insurmountable or not. Why should I have to surmount anything? The reason that I made the comment about Lil Snoozy is because they recognized the need and did something about it. Same goes for the floors. We are not sending a man to Mars here. Floor rot need not ever be a problem. We have the means to stop it. The underside of my chipboard floor is pretty well sealed, but an undetected interior leak could cause some pretty good damage in a short period of time. Completely avoidable. The question is, will anyone appreciate that Snoozy has addressed these issues? These things add cost to the production. They mean something to me, and I'm hoping I'm not the only one.

I have no axe to grind with Scamp. I like my trailer, and I think Scamp is a good company. Lots of reasons to reccommend them. It doesn't change the fact that corners were cut on finishing my frame, and I'll be the one paying for that eventually. They know it and I know it.

I have no connection to Lil Snoozy either, just a tip of the hat to what I consider to be a job well (better) done.

David
If you are worried about a shiny frame then get under there and paint it now before it rusts! Rubberized undercoating will do a fine job or you could splurge and use POR15, I even like that spray bedliner in a can.
Oliver offered an aluminum frame on their heritage model, That was a fine trailer! Emphasis on WAS. Thirty years of neglect and still in good shape means real value if you can get it at an affordable price.
There are no 50 year old Scamps but there are forty year old ones.
I did not say that you or I had to "surmount" anything, and I was talking about 30+ year old neglected serviceable frames.
It sounds like you expect everything to maintain itself very well!

There are a few imperfections in my Scamp as well , most of which I have addressed. I am glad because I could not afford flawless indestructablity.
I hope my grandchidren aren't disappointed when someday in the far distant future, they inherit my perfectly serviceable piece of antique imperfection.
If you maintain everything you own very well , you will never have to worry about floor rot or frame rust.
Get to work, do it right, and then relax and enjoy the fruits of your labors!


I have an applicable anecdote for ya....

Old Hank is driving along in his brand new Model "T"
A Packard pulls up alongside and yells over at him...
Hey what's all that rattling noise I hear?
Hank doffs his hat and with a big smile replies....
Y,That's five thousand dollars worth of change in the trunk!
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Old 11-04-2011, 09:50 PM   #89
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Name: David
Trailer: 16 foot Scamp
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If you are worried about a shiny frame then get under there and paint it now before it rusts! Rubberized undercoating will do a fine job or you could splurge and use POR15, I even like that spray bedliner in a can.
Oliver offered an aluminum frame on their heritage model, That was a fine trailer! Emphasis on WAS. Thirty years of neglect and still in good shape means real value if you can get it at an affordable price.
POR-15 is my favorite. I've never had to do it twice I'd love an aluminum frame too. I don't care about shiny, I just can't stand rusty

David
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Old 11-05-2011, 09:27 AM   #90
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Name: Donna D
Trailer: Escape 5.0 TA, 2014
Oregon
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POR-15 is the best. Once and done. More importantly, it needs and loves RUST. I've had hotrod friends that have built frames and left them outside over the winter to RUST. POR-15 doesn't work well at all over paint or road rash. It requires a clean, flake-free, non-greasy metal to adhere. But once done, you'll never need to do it again.

Aluminum oxides and pits. The weight savings of an aluminum frame is not a good enough reason for me to want one. If it breaks, few welders can weld aluminum. You could find yourself stranded miles from a competent welder.... just ask Gina!

YMMV
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Old 11-05-2011, 10:14 AM   #91
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Hi: All...I agree with Donna D... Aluminium can be the pits... I'm working in the bus wash for a few weeks and you should see the creeping corrosion under the paint on some of the aluminium body panels. Our transit co. had to scrap some buses that were built with aluminium tube frames when they became unrepairable.
I still believe in using Krown spray on rust protection for the unseen rusted steel frame parts. 1 can is 10 bucks and 20 min. to apply it. The rust stays dampened and stopped, with the Krown, for a whole season. Just my 2cents worth!!!
Alf S. North shore of Lake Erie
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Old 11-05-2011, 10:57 AM   #92
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Name: David
Trailer: 16 foot Scamp
Oregon
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Aluminum still needs to be painted. Largely it's because of the chemicals used on the roads. The downside of aluminum is that it is more susceptible to fatigue and cracks. Frames built out of aluminum have to be designed differently. You can't simply substitute aluminum for steel in the structure or design. One of the great attributes of steel is it's extreme resistance to fatigue. That actually makes it a wonderful frame material, but it has to be protected.

There is a golden opportunity to protect the frame for the long haul when the trailer is being built. After that you are looking at a frame off to do the job as well. Part of the frustration is that actually, poor paint is worse than NO paint. It's actually easier to deal with the bare surface, and any proper repaint means removing all the old paint. The new paint is no better than the stuff below. Donna's comments about POR-15 are exactly right. It is great stuff,and I have used it on many auto restorations, but it is a total waste of money to put it over poorly applied existing paint. If the paint underneath were of the types I described earlier, it would adhere just fine. The great thing about POR-15 is that it also loves rusted surfaces.

The rattle can strategy is not a bad one actually, but it does conceal rust that continues to grow underneath. You need to get as much loose stuff off as you can before spraying. I've become pretty fond of Krylon Fusion for all my rattle can needs. It is designed to stuck to plastic, but it actually sticks to everything well.

Here's the best solution though, and the point of my original post. Do it right from the factory!

I suppose we are getting a little off topic, sorry

David
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Old 11-05-2011, 11:31 AM   #93
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Trailer: Escape 5.0 TA, 2014
Oregon
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There's a number of things to consider about the frame. Cost being one. This reminds me of buying a custom built home where you are on site and say "I want an electrical outlet over there..." or buying a spec home and you get outlets where the builder chooses to put them. If I was buying a "custom" trailer and was within driving distance of the manufacturer... I'd think I'd have a better chance of getting exactly what I want. And that might be, going to the manufacturer and coating the frame before the body is attached and doing the work myself. Or asking for it and paying for it. I bet Escape would do it!
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