New Blog Educate me on the 16 Foot Scamps - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-02-2013, 11:45 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Myron Leski View Post
How would a floor rot if the trailer is fairly tight? When the trailer is not fairly tight. (Something you don't usually need to worry about if buying a factory new one.) Otherwise, ....Negligence, failed repairs, dumb repairs, ignored early signs of trouble, yes, the usual suspects. Water always finds a way. Take a look at the picture of the ovrsized escape hatch as it came with my 16. Ugly stuff, eh? Think water might find a way past that hatch? Yes it did.

Some sellers are ignorant they have floor rot, some will not hesitate to hide floor rot---been there--re: pix. Not likely to have a rotted floor caused by water coming anywhere else other than from above. Think windows, leaky hoses, rivets, or a bad door seal. These be the weak spots.

Compared to stick-built, where every seam is a potential leak, leaks are at absolute minimum. This is the beauty of the fiberglass trailer!

"When I get on top is my fat A## going to fall through, And no I am not going to stand on it ! I would have carpet to kneel on."

Don't think that carpet would help you much, Nut Case. I can see how I caused you to be confused about roof work. I thought you would notice the ladder in my picture, and figure out from there how that would work better.
Hey I like the one holer in the back is that an option on scamps? You can crap while ya cruise this will be a big hit with family and freinds! Sorry I am such a smart a##! You are right though I really need to find one and check for my self. Thanks for the pics and info!
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Old 09-02-2013, 11:51 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Bob Miller View Post
"Snow Coat" isn't used on FGRV's.

Standard RV putty tape is used to seal almost all openings, roof vents, side windows, side vents etc. Some owners also use a self leveling RV sealer like Sikaflex on roof vents, but that's about all. BTW: I never use any kind of silicone sealer on fiberglass. Most will peel back and leak and the few Marine products that do work, stick so well that you can't remove the item sealed in the future without damage.

I have seen a very few floors with water damage in FGRV's, it is very rare and most likely caused by a window or vent being left open rather than a structural leak. In actually looking at FGRV's you will see less than 1/10th of the examples of water leak damage that you will see in conventional "stick-built" RV's. It's one of the biggest reasons why we like them.

In the price range you mentioned it's a crap shoot as to what will be in the trailer and what still works. Some originally fully equipped trailers will have refrigerators, furnaces and water system that don't work, some basic units will be all accessorized by previous owners and be nicer than a new one as to features. In finding an FGRV it's a bit difficult to be choosy about floor plans and accessories, what ya see is what ya get.

Those that get a mind set about "exactly" what they want, are usually listed on the site as "still looking", sometimes years later.
I wellcome a trailer that needs all this work because I can service all of this. And besides I can steal it for rock bottom price. My main concern is structure damage roof floory etc. The rest I can fix. I would love to find one with hot water heater, sinks two way frige etc. As long as the cooling unit is good I can fix it. I have had these fridges apart and furnaces and hot water heaters just about any componet on a RV Electrical I have worked on. So bring it on!
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Old 09-03-2013, 03:54 AM   #17
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Smile Fiberglass rules

Here is a brief explanation of the advantage of all around fiberglass.

Some have wooden floors exposed on the bottom, I think.

Trillium RV - Orange County RV - YouTube

The location and contact information is out of date. Here is the current:

trilliumrv.com

If you decide on new, Trillium is located in Florence, AZ just SE of Phoenix. Tell Tom Roger sent you. LOL

I understand that some brands actually had the plywood floor edges exposed in the wheel wells. I'm thinking Burro, but I might be wrong. I also think it is on this blog somewhere.
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Old 09-03-2013, 08:43 AM   #18
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Stealing It?

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Originally Posted by RV NUT CASE View Post
I wellcome a trailer that needs all this work because I can service all of this. And besides I can steal it for rock bottom price.
--------------------------------------------------------------------

There are only a few things you have to do to "steal it for a rock bottom price":

1. Be first.... There may be as many as 50 vultures on this site (including moi) that check every FGRV for-sale venue 2-3 times a day looking for exactly what you are looking to buy.

2. Have cash in hand. "Wanna Trade" has almost no chance of success..... If for no other reason than the sellers phone has usually been ringing all day long with other interested buyers. In the hour that it took to buy our last FGRV, a 13' Lil' BigFoot, the sellers phone rang 4 times with interested buyers. When we picked it up the next day the seller offered to refund 150% of our deposit to cancel the deal.

3. Consider making an advance deposit to hold the trailer until you can inspect. There are several ways to make a deposit before inspecting, I use PayPal for immediate deposits. This tells the seller that you will show up. Walking away from a small deposit is a lot better than driving 325 miles only to see "Your" trailer leaving behind someone elses TV, as happened to us on one occasion.

4. Know what you are buying, not only in terms of the rig itself, but also know what documentation from the seller is needed. In some cases buyers have gotten stuck paying up to 5 years back registration and penalties on trailers that had sat unregistered for years. In another example it took almost 3 years to get a clear title.

5. Ferget finding a "Really dumb seller", one that is selling something cheap. For every one of those, there are 10 smarter sellers that are little more than scammers. If it sounds to good to be true, it usually is.

Other than that, it's pretty easy
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Old 09-03-2013, 11:02 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Roger C H View Post
Here is a brief explanation of the advantage of all around fiberglass.

Some have wooden floors exposed on the bottom, I think.

Trillium RV - Orange County RV - YouTube

The location and contact information is out of date. Here is the current:

trilliumrv.com

If you decide on new, Trillium is located in Florence, AZ just SE of Phoenix. Tell Tom Roger sent you. LOL

I understand that some brands actually had the plywood floor edges exposed in the wheel wells. I'm thinking Burro, but I might be wrong. I also think it is on this blog somewhere.
Thanks for the video ! I am not going new cant afford it. I would have to be traveling alot to go new. I want used , steal it or trade for it and have it free and clear with title. If I go with the GTO its going to cost me thousands just to get the poor car back on the road. Other wise if I get one of these trailers I will take the Police Enterceptor Crown Vic. Just needs some upgrades on the rear suspension and a brake controller. But new is out definately. I have a very nice Nomad that is paid for and a truck that needs to much needed TLC to be road worthy again.

If I can get one of these for rock bottom or trade my bike for one then I will go for it as long as its not busted up to hell. Structure needs to be good the rest I can fix

I did enjoy the video thanks again!
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Old 09-03-2013, 11:12 AM   #20
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[QUOTE=Bob Miller;415687]
Quote:
Originally Posted by RV NUT CASE View Post
I wellcome a trailer that needs all this work because I can service all of this. And besides I can steal it for rock bottom price.

--------------------------------------------------------------------

There are only a few things you have to do to "steal it for a rock bottom price":

1. Be first.... There may be as many as 50 vultures on this site (including moi) that check every FGRV for-sale venue 2-3 times a day looking for exactly what you are looking to buy.

2. Have cash in hand. "Wanna Trade" has almost no chance of success..... If for no other reason than the sellers phone has usually been ringing all day long with other interested buyers. In the hour that it took to buy our last FGRV, a 13' Lil' BigFoot, the sellers phone rang 4 times with interested buyers. When we picked it up the next day the seller offered to refund 150% of our deposit to cancel the deal.

3. Consider making an advance deposit to hold the trailer until you can inspect. There are several ways to make a deposit before inspecting, I use PayPal for immediate deposits. This tells the seller that you will show up. Walking away from a small deposit is a lot better than driving 325 miles only to see seeing "Your" trailer leaving behind someone elses TV, as happened to us on one occasion.

4. Know what you are buying, not only in terms of the rig itself, but also know what documentation from the seller is needed. In some cases buyers have gotten stuck paying up to 5 years back registration and penalties on trailers that had sat unregistered for years. In another example it took almost 3 years to get a clear title.

5. Ferget finding a "Really dumb seller", one that is selling something cheap. For every one of those, there are 10 smarter sellers that are little more than scammers. If it sounds to good to be true, it usually is.

Other than that, it's pretty easy
You see I have the right frame of mind to buy one rock bottom price or trade I dont car either way. If I get one fine if I dont I dont really care. I have a very nice Nomad travel trailer and a very nice 3/4 ton pickup that needs a little work. I have dumped thousands of dollars into both. The Nomade tows beatifully! It backs up so nice I wouldnt trade it for one of these pille of junk new trailers its all solid wood inside and American made@ They don't make them like this anymore. I just love the way they made trailers in the 80s!

If I get one of these plastic trailers I might use it once a year. I would like to do the GTO and the trailer if it doesnt happen then it dont happen. I dont really need the trailer at all . I would be cool to put this project together but I am not going to get my butt hurt if I dont find one.

So if I cant steal it or trade I really dont care. I just wont get one. Not trying to sound mean or nasty please don't take it that way/

Iam not going to jump through hoops and do a song and dance to buy one of these if he dont want to deal or trade oh well no sale. I will keep the Nomad and go on my trip to the Oregon coast anyway/ I dont need one of these trailers really dont. It if happens it happens if not oh well no big deal
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Old 09-03-2013, 04:18 PM   #21
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As the President might say, there is a Red Line that shouldn't be crossed, and if someone refered to our FGRV's as a "Plastic" trailer, that just might be that Red Line.

As almost all on here would agree, finding a used FGRV, more often than not, is a lot of work and, if one should fall into ones lap that can be had at a low price, the best of luck on that.

And if someone doesn't care if they get one or not, so be it, I will devote my time to helping those that are interested in making the usual and expected efforts to find what they want.

BTW: Many FGRV's, as were the last three sold at my abode, are sold by a "She".
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Old 09-03-2013, 04:37 PM   #22
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On my Scamp I have taken off and replaced the big escape hatch as well as added a Fantastic fan to the rear of the main escape hatch. Did it all (including the cutting of the hole in the fiberglass for the FF) by reaching through the escape hatch opening. Have never had a need to put my full weight on the roof.

Mounted both hatches using butyl tape only - no need for any other sealers & I camp on the wet coast!
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Old 09-03-2013, 04:48 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by RV NUT CASE View Post
I wellcome a trailer that needs all this work because I can service all of this. And besides I can steal it for rock bottom price.
LOL dont count on that in the world of Fiberglass trailers. I am always a little surprised as what people will pay for a trailer in need of what I would consider a lot of work! Suspect it is because the fiberglass trailers are so much easier to fix than a sticky trailer and people dont need a lot if any previous RV repair to do a good repair job themselves.
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Old 09-03-2013, 09:51 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Carol H View Post
On my Scamp I have taken off and replaced the big escape hatch as well as added a Fantastic fan to the rear of the main escape hatch. Did it all (including the cutting of the hole in the fiberglass for the FF) by reaching through the escape hatch opening. Have never had a need to put my full weight on the roof.

Mounted both hatches using butyl tape only - no need for any other sealers & I camp on the wet coast!
I sounds like if you treat these trailers right and keep the maintence up on them they will last a long time? Am I right? They sound like they are easy to maintain? Is that right? This is what I am picking up from you guys?
So have any issues with large down pours on hatches etc?
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Old 09-03-2013, 09:54 PM   #25
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LOL dont count on that in the world of Fiberglass trailers. I am always a little surprised as what people will pay for a trailer in need of what I would consider a lot of work! Suspect it is because the fiberglass trailers are so much easier to fix than a sticky trailer and people dont need a lot if any previous RV repair to do a good repair job themselves.

A sticky trailer ? I find that amusing . Never heard that one before. What ever you do dont show up at one of your tours with a sticky trailer. Those guys will run you out on the rails!
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Old 09-03-2013, 10:15 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by RV NUT CASE View Post
I sounds like if you treat these trailers right and keep the maintence up on them they will last a long time? Am I right? They sound like they are easy to maintain? Is that right? This is what I am picking up from you guys?

So have any issues with large down pours on hatches etc?
You have the right picture of the situation. Even if they havent been well taken care of they are pretty simple to fix! Pretty well the worst case scenario is a floor replacement but if all the furniture is moulded fiberglass its pretty easy to take it all out and put back in once the floor is redone. Unlike a sticky or stick trailer as we call the more traditionally built trailers with wood frames on the inside walls.

No leaks on hatches or windows just using good old butyl tape to seal them - even when it rains for 40 days and 40 nights and often more which happens more often than not in these parts!

Silicone BTW is a 4 letter word in the fiberglass trailer world! People have been known to have been shoot for getting close than 5' with a tube of it to a fiberglass trailer.
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Old 09-03-2013, 10:55 PM   #27
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You have the right picture of the situation. Even if they havent been well taken care of they are pretty simple to fix! Pretty well the worst case scenario is a floor replacement but if all the furniture is moulded fiberglass its pretty easy to take it all out and put back in once the floor is redone. Unlike a sticky or stick trailer as we call the more traditionally built trailers with wood frames on the inside walls.

No leaks on hatches or windows just using good old butyl tape to seal them - even when it rains for 40 days and 40 nights and often more which happens more often than not in these parts!

Silicone BTW is a 4 letter word in the fiberglass trailer world! People have been known to have been shoot for getting close than 5' with a tube of it to a fiberglass trailer.
Is the furniture on the floor screwed n glued? Or just screwed in? Can you just unscrew it and take all of out then put in new flooring. Is the floor plywood?
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Old 09-04-2013, 12:04 AM   #28
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Is the furniture on the floor screwed n glued? Or just screwed in? Can you just unscrew it and take all of out then put in new flooring. Is the floor plywood?
Since Carol is offline at the moment I'll answer. The furniture is either just screwed where it is attached to wood, and pop-riveted where it is attached to an adjoining piece of fiberglass.
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