New Parkliner water pump problem - Fiberglass RV

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Old 06-28-2017, 11:26 AM   #1
Name: Mary
Trailer: Parkliner; TV 2012 Nissan Murano
New Jersey
Posts: 65
New Parkliner water pump problem

We picked up our Parkliner in April of this year so it's pretty much brand new. The water pump is cycling on and off constantly even with all faucets closed - 2 seconds on, 4 seconds off. I checked for leaks, nothing. The cap on the water tank fill is tightly closed. When I turn on the pump and open the faucet now, it takes a few seconds for the water to get to the faucet. So it seems some water is leaking back through the pump. This started happening when my son took the camper to a festival. They used up the water in the tank, down to 5%, then a water truck came by and they refilled the tank. The problem started happening after they were refilled by the truck. He said they kept washing dishes while the tank was being refilled, but I don't think that should be a problem. Prior to this, the water tank was filled 3 times and the water used with no problems. We have not run it on city water yet. As I did some reading on this, all I can think of is maybe a piece of dirt got lodged in the intake valve of the pump so it's not sealing properly. I'm not sure if there is also a check valve in this pump or added somewhere in the water line. Has anybody had a problem like this? I tried calling about the warranty but so far no answer. I know the company is in transition now so I was referred to their Ohio headquarters.

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Old 06-28-2017, 12:12 PM   #2
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Name: Ken
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If the pump check valve is not holding pressure ,then the pump will run till the pressure switch is satisfied , then the pump will shut off , then the water pressure will bleed off through the bad check valve and the pump will start again until the pressure switch is satisfied.
its a rubber diaphragm in the end of the 12V pump housing on a lot of them, I dont know about yours. Some can be taken off and flicked down with your finger. There is an easier reset procedure that hopefully someone will post.

post #7 here might be it
city water fills fresh water tank

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Old 06-28-2017, 12:28 PM   #3
Name: Mary
Trailer: Parkliner; TV 2012 Nissan Murano
New Jersey
Posts: 65
Thank you, Ken. I got a call back from them and will hopefully talk with a technician tomorrow.
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Old 06-28-2017, 01:18 PM   #4
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Name: Dave
Trailer: Casita SD17 2006
Posts: 3,316
You may also have an air leak at a fitting that allows the pressure to drain off but not leak any water. I had the same thing happening and found a hose clamp just downstream from the pump needed a bit of tightening. This starting after the truck fill may just be a coincidence .
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Old 06-28-2017, 01:48 PM   #5
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Name: Huck
Trailer: ParkLiner
Posts: 651
I thought I had a problem with mine, but it was actually a problem with me! Anyway, I had looked on youtube for rv water pump troubleshooting and there are several helpful videos.
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Old 06-28-2017, 04:47 PM   #6
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Name: Bryan
Trailer: Casita "Cozy-Casa"
Central Virginia
Posts: 263
could be air trapped in the line somewhere including the hot water heater not full - bleed the air out of all the systems by running water in the toilet, bath sink, kitchen sink, hot water from both sinks, outside shower, etc....
"Cozy-Casa" -- Visualize whirled peas
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Old 06-28-2017, 06:58 PM   #7
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Name: Sid
Trailer: Parkliner 2014 V6 Jeep Cherokee
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One more thing to check is the city water inlet valve. A google search on this site will give you several threads where others post a similar issue.
Don't quit your daydream.
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Old 06-28-2017, 09:11 PM   #8
Name: Mary
Trailer: Parkliner; TV 2012 Nissan Murano
New Jersey
Posts: 65
I could use links to helpful videos. I've searched at least 10 hours already and have only come up with turning up the faucets to let air out. I don't know what to look for with the water heater or the city water. I've let hot water run from the faucets.
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Old 06-29-2017, 08:37 AM   #9
Name: Mary
Trailer: Parkliner; TV 2012 Nissan Murano
New Jersey
Posts: 65
Making progress

Thank you for everyone's ideas. I got a call back from Liberty Outdoors. Advice from the technician was to look for leaks under the trailer. Thought is that if a valve is slightly open somewhere and leaking, I could be losing pressure. No water outside at all. So, they are calling a dealer near me to bring in the trailer for expert help. Fulfilling the warranty this way is a heck of a lot better than making an 8-hr drive down to North Carolina. So far I like their new business model. And I'm still in love with the camper. It's the prettiest little thing
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Old 06-29-2017, 08:47 AM   #10
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Name: Mike
Trailer: Escape 21 & Jeep GC 5.7 (Previous 2012 Casita FD17 & 2010 Audi Q5)
Puget Sound, WA
Posts: 818
Please let us know what they find as we all like to get educated after you've stumped us!
- "Wag more, bark less." -
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Old 06-29-2017, 08:54 AM   #11
Name: Mary
Trailer: Parkliner; TV 2012 Nissan Murano
New Jersey
Posts: 65
OK, will do. My thought still is that some garbage inadvertantly got sucked into the water tank. Good thing is that I've learned a lot in my searches. I didn't know that I should be using a pressure regulator when using city water, so that's on order now. I was also using a garden hose to fill the water tank at home, ouch! New safe hose on the way. And also a good filter is coming, all water that enters the trailer from now on will be filtered. On our next trip we'll be using city water so we'll have a new learning curve, I'm sure.
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Old 06-29-2017, 10:05 AM   #12
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Name: Dale
Trailer: 2010 EggCamper; 2002 Highlander 3.0L; 2017 Escape 21'; 2016 F-150 5.0L Fx4
Posts: 673
With the pump cycling in just seconds that way, I bet some piece of crud got wedged around the check valve and won't let it completely seal off - letting pressure quickly bleed back into the freshwater tank. Regarding the freshwater tank being filled when this happened, a small piece of crud could have already been lying peacefully on the bottom of your freshwater tank, but the turbulence that occurred during the filling could have been enough to stir it up and near the outlet hole just as your son opened a water faucet, and into the outlet and on to the pump's check valve it went. If the pump is easy to get to and inspect, try disconnecting the water lines and inspect/blow air around the inlet and outlet ports of the pump. On a similar note, back in the 1970's, I learned the hard way to bypass gas stations where tanker trucks are currently dumping new fuel into the underground tanks - regardless of in-line filters and such. Crud happens! And it's amazing how stirred-up crud can find it's way to the place where it will do the most harm.
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Old 06-29-2017, 10:36 AM   #13
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Name: Wayne & Barbara
Trailer: Parkliner
Posts: 756
Ditto on the crud stuck in the pump check valves.
That's exactly what happened to ours. I was able to remove the pump, disassemble it, removed two tiny black bits of something, reassemble and install. It works fine now.
I think the problem is that ParkLiner did not install a filter in the before the pump.
The space in there is tight, but if the pump were located better it would be possible.
I would also like to see a shut off valve at the tank outlet so you don't have to drain the whole tank to remove the pump.

Do you find the pump to be noisy? There should be a loop in both the inlet and outlet hoses to help absorb vibration. They don't do that, therefore the whole camper vibrates.

WE only had the pump problem after filling the tank at a campground. It must have loosened the paint (crud) inside the tank, which then got into the pump. ergo the need for a filter, like our Scamp had
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Old 06-29-2017, 12:05 PM   #14
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