Newfoundland

[honda03842]

I've had a couple of PMs about the weather this spring in Newfoundland. It's been interesting in that the coldest and warmest days we've experienced since leaving Florida have happened in Newfoundland.

Yesterday, though we may have looked cold hiking up to Brimstone Head, we were not cold, mainly just wind blown. The wind made the hike a more conscious event, the temperature reached a high of 68 F.

About 10 days ago we had the coldest day since leaving Florida when we were camped in Notre Dame Provincial Park, mid-island, where we woke to a big flake snow shower and freezing temperatures. That day we reached a high of 39 F.

Generally we do not see May flies or mosquitos when we travel in May and June in Newfoundland. I think the combination of temperature and wind help with that potential problem. Though interestingly last night at 4 AM Ginny and I woke simultaneously to the buzz of a mosquito who was dispatched after 3 tries.

[honda03842]

Paul,

As to the long or short ferry from North Sydney, Nova Scotia, we always have taken the short ferry. Of course short is a relative word because the short ferry takes 6 hours, the long ferry takes 14 and has on occasion taken more than a day depending on the North Atlantic weather.

If you always take the short ferry it means if you drive across the island, you have to drive back to get the short ferry. There is no loop road. For us that's not a problem because there is so much to see, and do.

The long ferry as I recall is 2 to 3 times as expensive.

The island is deceptive. On our first trip here we thought we see the whole thing in 12 days. We managed to see some of the western part of the island, the northern peninsula. On our second trip we made it to St. Johns, crossing the whole island and seeing a lot going out and coming back, but missing many side roads. Now after some 7 trips we've seen most of the island though on the ferry trip over a kayaker was showing some iceberg pictures of St. Brennon's island, another place we haven't been. I quess there's next year.

It's obvious we don't race from place to place.

Yesterday we met another couple at the top of Brimstone head from Montreal. They asked us about Gros Morne Provincial Park, planning to spend a couple of days there. We didn't discourage them, because it is a marvelous park. I think over the years of our travel here we've spent more than 2 months in the park and always discover something new.

My sister in law is in Clifton, Ireland this week, near where Ginny's family is from. She wrote, "I could just remain in Clifton forever if it wasn't for family". I know how she feels, as we travel about we know about at least a 1,000 places we'd be happy living.

On our climb yesterday we met another young man who came back to Fogo from Ontario to visit his grandparents. He's now looking for a job so he can stay. As well this week the 'once a year' small cruise ship came into Fogo. The Lions club treated them to refreshments, music and a talk by an author, all happening at the campground. They invited us as well. One of the musicians told me that he came for a visit and stayed.

There's a magic to the quiet here, the naturalness of the people you meet, the simple downhome friendliness that can make you want to stay here, particularly if you come from city insanity.

Sorry it's long. I get carried away with love for places and life.

[Paul O.]

The time spent on a ferry is not time well spent - in my experience. I used to get sick as a dog and my wife always enjoyed the ride. We crossed the North Sea 40 years ago and nobody wants to hear my details. She, on the other hand, drank and ate danish pastry at the bar. I hope I have outgrown my motion sensitivity.
As to the fact that there is not circular road on the island, traveling the same road in both directions is a way to get much more out of the trip, I think.
Great pictures!

[honda03842]

We met an author the other day a real Newfoundlander and 'Fogoian'. He knows everything about the past of this island as one reads in his 3 books of stories and hears in his poetry.

He's come by a couple times and today brought someone around from NYC to meet us and see our trailer.

I recognized that the little trailer is not intimating to people like a big fifth wheel or glitzy motor home might. It some how puts more in the cast of a normal human, requiring little.

Is this true, I don't know but it's a reasonable thought.

The guy from NYC left thinking it was possible for him.

[honda03842]

Admittedly it's a small sample, but virtually every day the weatherman has gotten the weather wrong on Fogo. Every day has been better than projected.

Last night we were talking to the 'head Lion' at the Lion Club's campground. He told us not to leave on Monday, that we brought the good weather.

One of the neater aspects of Newfoundland is that virtually every town has specific hiking trails, there most be a dozen on the island.

Most of the island is un-inhabited by people. Surprisingly to us the island has 3 Caribou herds, each numbering about 200 Caribou. We've only seen solitary Caribou on the island and they don't seem to spooked by traffic or people. We met a man who recently had a herd on his property and was even able to pet one from his porch.

For the those who Kayak, this could be a great place with numerous harbours. For islanders the Kayak is not the vessel of choice. Their get around, person powered boat is the Punt. a 15 foot row boat. Later this month they have their annual Punt race, first place is $3000, about a 3 hour row for the winners.

We leave here on Monday heading to a neighboring Change Islands, a island as long as Fogo, but narrow. We can see it from the window of our trailer. It should be much more rural than Fogo where there are 10 small communities, Change has one.

Since Change is on the Ferry route off the island there is no charge for the stop.

[honda03842]

Another hike today. Fogo was the longest action of one of Marconi' Wireless towers. There are numerous hiking trails in the area. We hiked put to the Eastern Tickle where there used to be a community of 100.

Second picture of Brimstone Head from Marconi, s Hill.

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[MarkyVasquez]

I'm glad to see you're enjoying yourselves Norm. Someday my wife and I hope to follow your tracks to Newfoundland. We really enjoy reading about the adventures of Norm and Ginny!

[honda03842]

Mark, everywhere turns out to be fun and interesting, particularly Newfoundland. Fogo is to the point of unique. Thanks Mark

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[honda03842]

Today is a chilly (39F), foggy day in Newfoundland, our last on Fogo Island. No complaint because the weather has been good.

Today while stocking up for our next adventure on the Change Islands we stopped at a small harbour because Ginny wanted to take a picture. A small, bigger than our car, was in the middle of the harbour, rather suddenly it turned over. We had never seen one roll before.

Love the new...

[papa-t]

Safe travels to you two. Were all jealous.

[honda03842]

Feeling a little down since we're leaving in the morning. We've made a couple of friends on the island, one an author about our age. He's written three books about the island and the way it was and in part the way it is.

I've read them all plus two others we bought in the same style.

We went for a 'mug up' at his home yesterday. He showed us his small garden, about 30 x 30' where he grows potatoes and other root crops, enough for the year. All plantings are in what they call 'lazy beds'. Linear mounds of humped soil. Of course they mostly fertilize with seaweed.

To top it all off he has a real root cellar.. the in the dirt mound type.

He's in some sense a survivalist, not consciously like in the states, but rather a person that can grow his own food, fish and hunt.

It was not that long ago, in our life time, when this was their lifestyle. In a sense some of the people here are like visiting another time. We find it educational and stimulating.

Tomorrow we leave for the nearby Change Islands, smaller and even more rural than Fogo.

This is a must visit place, for me a re-visit place. The miracle of this year's icebergs is startling. We were in this area last year and nary a one.

Safe Travels

[giro53]

Wasnin NFLND a couple of years back. Can,t wait to go back. Very very unique place. Excellent hiking, vistas, kayaking etc... Yes the traverse is expensive but nfland is much larger than you would expect. Plan to spend as much of the summer there as possible. It is a major trip not a side trip. The Maritimes are also wonderful ( biased since we used to live in N but I would recommend making the Maritimes one trip and Nflnd another.
We are envious. Enjoy a fantastically unique place. It is an adventure at leaf equal to Alaska.

[j-rod]

hey folks, keep a close eye for moose. Dad, uncle, and I went hunting there back in 2010, had a blast, just be careful at night. I highly recommend a Newfie moose hunt. I'm from Ontario and I'm somewhat used to Irish and Scottish accents, but I had a very hard time understanding my backwoods guide's accent. His name was Pious, and he was I'd also recommend St. Martin's New Brunswick. Great food and people and fantastic hiking. Only place I've ever made it to the top of a hill and found a swamp.

[honda03842]

We've been to Alaska and it is a great visit though we like Newfoundland better.

There is certainly a lot of freshwater ponds and generally spongy soil but fantastic hiking. We have seen our share of moose but only on the main island where they were introduced about 150 years ago. On the outer islands like Fogo and Change there are no Moose though Fogo has three large Caribou herds.

We spent a lot of time with two people from Fogo. It reminds me of going to Ireland, you in a sense need to re-calibrate your listening and occasionally your listening gets stopped by a new word Ginny and I watched a lot of Irish movies for a while and it used to take us about 15 minutes to lock into the language.

As to duration, any trip to Newfoundland is worth a month. We usually spend two months.

[honda03842]

We absolutely lucked out. The owner of our campground, Peter Porter, is building a bullyboat, a traditional Newfoundland sail boat about 30 feet long. He's been hunting the woods to get appropriately shaped timbers.

Makes me want to come back to see it launched next year.

Peter also has a neat little museumand plays the accordian for you when you visit.

Love our travels, something at every turn and the roads on the Change Islands have more turns.....

[honda03842]

Newfoundland Icebergs.

We left Change Islands this morning and are now near Twillingate camped in Dildo Run Provincial Park on the Virgin Arm.

The Icebergs are almost beyond belief, unfortunately it's foggy and overcast tomorrow will be brighter.

The pictured icebergs are mostly football field size. The Canadian Coast Guard says there are a 1000 more behind them. We are lucky to be here.

[Nut501]

Norm and Ginny
Glad you guys are having a great time and enjoying your travels! Thanks for the Newfoundland reports, they are very interesting and informative! Stay safe!

[honda03842]

It was 33 this morning at our campground but the fog has lifted and now we can see real ice.

We were here last year at this time and there was no ice, now it's everywhere. So far thru June this is the coldest year in North AMerica since 1900.

Actually AL Gore predicted that there would be no Arctic ice in the summer of 2014, another failed prediction. On the other end of the spectrum he predicted bigger hurricanes for the USA, we haven't had a major hurican in over 8 years.

Regardless, there's plenty of ice and we're in the middle of June here, not that it has anything to do with global warming but it is awe inspiring to see so much ice. Ginny and I are truly shocked

[honda03842]

Today Ginny and I drove out to a small outpost to a delightful seafood lunch. Right on the owner's Wharf.... He catches the fish, lobster and crab... Really fresh. It was Samsone Seafood.

He had 100 crab pots out. Crab pots sit in 1200 feet of water. The Icebergs have probably destroyed them all. He does not expect the ice to clear until September.

Those are crab pots in the foreground.

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[honda03842]

Just a little comment...

Two of the good places we went this year were Fogo and Change Islands. The tourist bureau does not list campgrounds for these locations and the Visitor's bureaus do not promote campgrounds not in 'their' book.

Fogo has one of NL's best sited, cleanness and friendliest campgrounds at Brimstone Head run by the Lions Club. Change Island has a small, just above primitive campground run by Peter Porter. It is also well sited, reasonable, but small, only 5 sites. Best Peter is great has a wonderful museum and is constructing a Bully Boat, one of the few of it's kind, maybe the only one.

I mention this because we have met two campers that did not go to these locations because they are far out and lack campgrounds. (I will say you can go almost anywhere in Newfoundland and just park it with out concern.)