Oliver is Back!? - Page 6 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-04-2013, 10:57 AM   #71
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Originally Posted by hellsbay View Post
I just read on the Oliver Trailer Facebook site that the new 22' Oliver has a dry weight of 3700 pounds. My fully loaded 17' Oliver has a wet weight of about 3800 pounds.
What was your dry weight so we can calculate the difference?
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Old 10-04-2013, 04:45 PM   #72
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What was your dry weight so we can calculate the difference?
Why do you need to calculate the difference? You don't even own one of these. They are not even making them any more, although I have heard that they will be back in production next year. They have a 5200# axel and I am pretty sure that unless you are carrying rocks, like Lucy, you won't exceed that. They are only making the 22' Oliver.

Personally, I would like to know the dry weight of my Oliver. There are some discussions on other forums that mention 3450#'s for the loaded out Elite. I think the only way to get an accurate weight at this point would be for an owner to weigh the trailer with empty tanks and then subtract the 6 gal. of water in the water heater.

The basic rule for towing is to subtract 20% from the maximum vehicle towing weight. That is the safe weight that you can tow and control. Of course, this is just a suggestion. If you are thinking about buying a trailer, you would be wise to use this rule. A lot of people ignore this rule when towing because they have never had a bad experience and want to have the biggest trailer that they can physically tow.
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Old 10-04-2013, 05:49 PM   #73
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It was a simple question for a simple reason, others would be able to calculate what increase a trailer, such as an Oliver may have in going from factory dry to wet in use. If you do not have the answer then so be it!
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Old 10-04-2013, 06:08 PM   #74
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I thought the dry weight excludes, not only propane and water, but options, batteries, etc. etc.
So, the dry weight would be whatever the manufacturer could get on a stripped model - the lower, the better.
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Old 10-04-2013, 07:29 PM   #75
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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
It was a simple question for a simple reason, others would be able to calculate what increase a trailer, such as an Oliver may have in going from factory dry to wet in use. If you do not have the answer then so be it!
Since they no longer make the Oliver 17, why don't you answer the simple question that you are asking with the dry weight and gross weight from your own trailer, which is very much in production?
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Old 10-04-2013, 07:30 PM   #76
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Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo View Post
I thought the dry weight excludes, not only propane and water, but options, batteries, etc. etc.
So, the dry weight would be whatever the manufacturer could get on a stripped model - the lower, the better.
The manufacturers listed dry weight for the Oliver is exactly that, 2400 pounds for the 17 Oliver, which is no longer in production.
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Old 10-04-2013, 07:37 PM   #77
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All I was asking Steve was the amount off your sticker on your 17' Oliver, which is the dry weight from the factory, with options. Then simple math will result with the answer. No liquids, no water, just the yellow sticker. I'm not concerned with the manufacturer's weight, which is without options. There is a 1400 lb difference, some of which is Oliver and the balance personal items and liquids.
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Old 10-04-2013, 09:01 PM   #78
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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
All I was asking Steve was the amount off your sticker on your 17' Oliver, which is the dry weight from the factory, with options. Then simple math will result with the answer. No liquids, no water, just the yellow sticker. I'm not concerned with the manufacturer's weight, which is without options. There is a 1400 lb difference, some of which is Oliver and the balance personal items and liquids.
Sorry Jim, I looked and could not find that info on my Oliver. Maybe I just don't know where to look. I know my AS had that info on a plaque.
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Old 10-04-2013, 09:10 PM   #79
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Maybe your registration, if not, thanks for trying.
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Old 10-05-2013, 07:47 AM   #80
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The day that the new owners of our Oliver 17 came to pick it up and after I had removed all of our personal gear, he and I took it to some scales here in town to weigh it. I figured that would be the only time it would ever be that empty. About the time that we pulled onto the scales I got a call telling me a old and dear friend's son was found dead. I did not write the numbers down. However, the new owner did and I have sent him a message requesting that info. Hopefully I will have it today. I will post it as soon as I know.

My opinion may differ from others on exactly what "dry" weight really is. To me it is the trailer as delivered from the factory without any water or personal gear. Anything else is moot as this is the minimum weight that I will be pulling around no matter what anyone else's weighs. I realize that this limits the usefulness of the number since it will only apply to that one trailer. But I'm pretty sure no two Olivers were exactly alike and very much doubt any two of the other brands are either.
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Old 12-24-2013, 05:47 PM   #81
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What is the Nydacore photo posted on their facebook. Does that go into the wall or floor? Thanks.
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Old 12-24-2013, 09:54 PM   #82
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Originally Posted by hellsbay View Post

The basic rule for towing is to subtract 20% from the maximum vehicle towing weight. That is the safe weight that you can tow and control. Of course, this is just a suggestion. If you are thinking about buying a trailer, you would be wise to use this rule. A lot of people ignore this rule when towing because they have never had a bad experience and want to have the biggest trailer that they can physically tow.
Who wrote this rule?
If it were appropriate, would it not obviate the figure from which you subtract?

What then happened to the 40% rule for trailer brakes which makes facetious assumptions about TV brake engineering, which are then used to write laws in some states.

Your "basic rule" clearly advises distrust of the manufacturer's rating, which is supposedly seen as authoritative.
Your comment then brings into question the judgement of those who would not follow a "basic rule" from an anonymous (or at least amorphous) source, which in turn is based on the assumption of bad manufacturer data. These are the very things which are supposed to preclude common sense and good judgement in favor of authoritative figures.

Now, if all manufacturers are assumed to be consistently wrong on the high side by 20%, what error factor should we then assign to the author of the rule?
Of course our own common sense and judgement having been already called into question, we are left with a choice...
Face danger or stay home!
Of course that presumes home is a safe place to stay?

Lord willing...I'll see you in Sebring!
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Old 12-24-2013, 10:50 PM   #83
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Good grief....fahgeddabout arguing ounces here and there!

Here's the "trailer rule of thumb":

Gross Carrying Capacity (usually expressed as axle(s) size) is all that matters....therefore:

ALWAYS assume that every last ounce of capacity built into the trailer will be consumed, whether by water, food, clothes, souvenirs, or The Dead Bodies of Relatives You Forgot Were In There.

Whatever the stated capacity of the Oliver is- that's what one should be able to tow....and the same is true of every other trailer on the market from the biggest fiver to the smallest popup.

Case closed!
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Old 12-26-2013, 09:03 AM   #84
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What is the Nydacore photo posted on their facebook. Does that go into the wall or floor? Thanks.
The Nida-Core that Oliver uses is placed in areas that can benefit from extra rigidity. The largest piece is bonded to and glassed into the ceiling the entire length of the trailer. This is what give the Oliver its unsurpassed strength in the roof. Two adults can easily walk around on it. There is a picture on The Oliver FB page that show the opening in the roof ready to receive the AC. You can see the way the Nida-Core is used in that area. There are other smaller pieces used in other locations.

Due to the double hull construction and the bracing between the two shells in the floor Nida-Core is not needed there. The floor is all fiberglass and is rock solid. The lower area between the shells contains all the plumbing, much of the electrical, ducts for the heating system, personal storage areas and the holding tanks for fresh and waste water. This area is heated when the basement furnace is running to reduce freezing potential. There are no drains or any plumbing outside the shell exposed to the elements.
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