Our 1st Year Not Having Scamp Stored Inside - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 11-13-2019, 03:13 PM   #21
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Trailer: 1975 Scamp, 13-foot
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Originally Posted by steve67 View Post
If you pull the battery do not store it on a concrete floor. It'll kill a battery in time.
The reason batteries lose their charge on concrete is that the concrete sucks the heat out of the battery, and batteries that are very cold for a long time will have extreme difficulty recovering.

It's not the concrete, it's the cold. A piece of wood will insulate the battery, and a trickle charger (I use Battery Tenders) will act as lift support.

--Harold
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Old 11-13-2019, 03:29 PM   #22
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The reason batteries lose their charge on concrete is that the concrete sucks the heat out of the battery

You didn't read Trojan Battery FAQ:

1. What are some common myths associated with batteries?Storing a battery on concrete will discharge it quicker- Long ago, when battery cases were made out of natural rubber, this was true. Now, however, battery cases are made of polypropylene or other modern materials that allow a battery to be stored anywhere. A battery’s rate of discharge is affected by its construction, its age, and the ambient temperature. The main issue with storing on concrete is that if the battery leaks, the concrete will be damaged.
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Old 11-13-2019, 03:54 PM   #23
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Name: Harold
Trailer: 1975 Scamp, 13-foot
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You didn't read Trojan Battery FAQ:.....
Maybe because it was posted while I was composing mine.

Do you think I'm stupid?

Also: in a former life I served an apprenticeship and am a Certified Journeyman Mechanic. The Trojan Battery FAQ is good info, but I bet you can find other "authorities" that wouldn't agree with them 100%.

I don't claim to be the end all authority on anything. Put your battery directly on concrete if you want. I won't.

Best Regards,

Harold
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Old 11-13-2019, 04:29 PM   #24
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Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
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Originally Posted by Doctor Harold View Post
The reason batteries lose their charge on concrete is that the concrete sucks the heat out of the battery, and batteries that are very cold for a long time will have extreme difficulty recovering.

It's not the concrete, it's the cold. A piece of wood will insulate the battery, and a trickle charger (I use Battery Tenders) will act as lift support.

--Harold
Actually batteries self-discharge slower when colder. And as long as kept charged they will suffer no damage at temps likely to be found most anywhere in the US or Canada. Which is why the trickle charger is a good idea, but the material of the floor has no consequence (unless maybe its a heated floor in which case the battery will self-discharge a little faster).

Let me steal a little from one good online source.. you can confirm this with other authoritative resources.

All batteries experience some amount of self-discharge, yes. But, the rate of discharge for lead acid batteries depends on a few key factors.

Temperature: The warmer the environment while a battery is in storage, the faster the rate of self-discharge. For example, a battery being stored at an average temperature of 80℉ will discharge at a rate of 4% per week. Whereas a lead acid battery being stored at 65℉ will only discharge at a rate of approximately 3% per month.


Length of Storage: The amount of time a battery spends in storage will also lead to self-discharge. A lead acid battery left in storage at moderate temperatures has an estimated self-discharge rate of 5% per month. This rate increases as temperatures rise and as the risk of sulfation goes up.
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Old 11-13-2019, 05:21 PM   #25
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Maybe because it was posted while I was composing mine.

Do you think I'm stupid?

Well, let's look at the evidence. The time the posts were made ( upper left corner.

I don't think you are stupid; just misinformed.
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Old 11-13-2019, 05:36 PM   #26
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Well, let's look at the evidence. The time the posts were made ( upper left corner.

I don't think you are stupid; just misinformed.
Well, I guess I need to read an entire thread before responding to a post.

Mea culpa.
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Old 11-13-2019, 06:01 PM   #27
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Name: K C
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All you have to do is search this forum and you will find people doing extensive repairs on the fiberglass from where snow collapsed the roof.
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Old 11-13-2019, 09:44 PM   #28
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Name: John
Trailer: Scamp 19 D 5er
North Dakota
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Our scamp is stored outside without a cover in North Dakota. Lots of snow. I tried a cover once and the wind was very hard on the gel coat. When you brush off the snow, be careful around the air conditioner cover. The fins are very brittle and break easy. Ask me how I know that.
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Old 11-22-2019, 12:13 PM   #29
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Name: Billy
Trailer: Fleetwood (not very fiberglass)
United States
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I am not yet a fiberglass camper owner, but I have plenty of experience with the stick and tin variety. My old school trailer lives outside year round in north Idaho. It's going on 16 years old now and though there are no leaks, it is starting to show its age. The last couple years I've started covering it with shrink wrap for the winter. It costs about $300 but it's worth it to me. I also built a peaked structure under the shrink wrap that prevents snow accumulation.

I haven't tried it yet, but I think I could re-use the shrink wrap for at least a couple more winters before needing to replace it.

Even if you're not inclined to shrink wrap, you could put a peaked structure on the roof made of light lumber and tarp it. JMHO
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