ParkLiner & Ford Escape - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-11-2014, 12:00 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Bob Miller View Post
Splicing anything into a hydraulic circuit with modern anti-lock brakes may well lead to a whole raft of problems with vehicle as well as trailer brakes.

And I'd bet it would play havoc with any warranty claims about the very expensive anti-lock system controller. I'd look for a more modern solution, at least something from the 1980's LOL.....
I agree. I just threw that in as a comment on how things used to be simple in the past, now more complicated by modern computer controlled systems. I think the last vehicle I actually tapped one of those controllers into was a '69.
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Old 09-11-2014, 12:15 PM   #16
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I had one on our 1973 Blazer and pulled an Airstream full time for a year and it was little better than marginal when compared to a modern (and even basic by todays standards) P2 controller.....
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Old 09-11-2014, 12:47 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Miller View Post
Splicing anything into a hydraulic circuit with modern anti-lock brakes may well lead to a whole raft of problems with vehicle as well as trailer brakes.

And I'd bet it would play havoc with any warranty claims about the very expensive anti-lock system controller. I'd look for a more modern solution, at least something from the 1980's LOL.....
When I had to install the seven pin and brake controller on the Subaru (it also only came with a 4 pin) I only tapped into the brake system via the brake light line just above the pedal to get the controller up and running, that is once the blue brake line was installed (that was a big pain).

I did later have issues with somedays some lights on the trailer worked fine and others not... turned out there was a faulty small electrical modular box which was part of the seven pin pigtail/plug set up.

Was also happy my Frontier came fully prewired and nothing more than a new harness for my old P2 controller was needed to get it up and running. Took more time to figure out where I want to mount the controller than it did to wire it up. Factory Plug and Play rocks!

Hope your able to get it sorted out Frank. As others have indicated it may be time to have a fresh set of eyes look over how its set up.
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Old 09-11-2014, 01:15 PM   #18
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I too use the Prodigy RF controller as I have a choice of 3 tugs to choose from. I have used it over a year now and it has worked flawlessly. You still have to have a functional 7 pin socket on your tug with a charge line but you don't have to deal with the nasty blue wire to your brake system.
Unfortunately I don't have a Ford Escape to do any testing.
Do the trailer brakes work when you hit the manual control on your controller?
When the unit is hooked up is the controller lit up and show its connected?
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Old 09-11-2014, 01:23 PM   #19
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Frank,
I don't know if you have seen this.

http://www.ford.com/resources/ford/g...&tt_escape.pdf
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Old 09-11-2014, 01:23 PM   #20
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What may be the case with a FORD is that they may still be using ground seeking circuits. That is, there is always 12 volts going to a load, like a tail light, and the tail light switch provides a ground to turn the light on, while the P2 and others are looking for 12VDC+ from the switch. Seems to be fairly common on a lot of vehicles with computer control of everything.
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Old 09-11-2014, 01:26 PM   #21
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Frank,
some more from etrailer.

Ford Escape Brake Controller | etrailer.com
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Old 09-11-2014, 01:42 PM   #22
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Frank,
Here is a long thread on installing a controller. Allot of fluff but there is some information in it.

Adding tow package? - 2013 / 2014 / 2015 Ford Escape Forum
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Old 09-11-2014, 02:18 PM   #23
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August always seems long to me but had no idea how long it goes on in FL! Jack
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Old 09-14-2014, 07:44 PM   #24
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Folks, take a look at this thread, then please tell me what I did wrong: 7 pin RV plug installation in 2013 Ford Escape with factory tow package

I have gone through a baseline analysis with a multimeter and test light. I first established a baseline with the F150, recorded voltages for a number of things, and amps a few places. Went through the same thing with the Escape. Should work, same voltages, continuity in all wiring that requires it. Does not. Drives me nuts. Took the trailer (not using the manufacturer's name anymore, y'all can guess) to MD for the weekend with the F150. Never a hiccup. Thing sucks gas like it's going out of style (it is isn't it?).

There's maybe one of two things left to do on the Escape, but who can I bring it to that knows more than me? Heck, last thing I tried was running a ground direct from the battery, thinking maybe just not good enough ground connection back there. Nope.

More problems too with the trailer. Gonna get a heat gun out and remove the logos soon.

Frank
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Old 09-14-2014, 11:50 PM   #25
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what happened with the trailer?
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Old 09-15-2014, 01:36 AM   #26
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Frank, since it works on the 150 fine your problem has to be with the other tug and not the trailer. Sure sounds like you've got a loose/corroded connection or ground to me. Doing static tests are fine but things change on the road as everything is moving around. I know nothing of how the computers work in cars now but have heard they may have to be reset or recoded to "see" something added in the system. Wonder if your Ford dealer could put it through a test run to see if your computer is working OK on the towing side. Keep us posted.
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Old 09-15-2014, 05:00 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by Borrego Dave View Post
Frank, since it works on the 150 fine your problem has to be with the other tug and not the trailer. Sure sounds like you've got a loose/corroded connection or ground to me. Doing static tests are fine but things change on the road as everything is moving around. I know nothing of how the computers work in cars now but have heard they may have to be reset or recoded to "see" something added in the system. Wonder if your Ford dealer could put it through a test run to see if your computer is working OK on the towing side. Keep us posted.
Dave, I installed this system on a new car that is garaged day and night. No corrosion I can see. It has not towed the trailer at all as the P3 cannot find trailer brakes. All the Ford garage will do for free is make sure the factory 4 pin works. It does. Next is me opening my wallet for somebody else to figure this out, but who?!?

Frank
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Old 09-15-2014, 05:05 AM   #28
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what happened with the trailer?
Basically, I took it to NC expecting a number of problems to get fixed, and nothing got done Deryk. I still have rusty door hinges, I still have water in the floor of my closet, I still don't have a low water drain, stuff like that. In the meantime I just had to replace the water pump, and my wastewater tank leaks.

Logos are coming off, and don't expect me at any ParkLiner rallies, at least ones that are involved with the company in any way. They ticked the wrong guy off. That trip cost me a lot of money basically just to have the batteries moved. Not worth it in any way you want to figure.

Frank
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