Parkliner Propane Refrigerator Question - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-05-2014, 12:53 AM   #15
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Hi Huck, after you light it a couple times it will be second nature to you if it cooling down or not. Haven't seen anyone else tell you but if your RV has been sitting for a while the propane kind of gets an air bubble in the lines. I nornally light the stove first to bleed the line as the stove uses more PL faster than the refer. Once the stove lights off, shut it down and then light the refer. I've had a number of RV's in 30 years with both Domectic and Norcold refers. Some had an indicator at the refer that showed the burner was lit and some didn't. I never had a problem knowing if they didn't light off even with the ones that didn't have an inside indicator. I could hear it burning or feel the heat after opening the outside access panel. In all the years I've only had two problems with my refers working. One thurmo coupler quit and kept it from lighting and another one while trying to light it gave off the "dreaded" ammonia smell......dead and a $1000.00 fix meaning a new unit but it was 15 years old.
I do two things now. I carry an extra thurmo coupler, quick fix and cheap and I keep a thermomitor in the box to keep tabs on the temp.
Beside a spyder making a web in the burner area (water heater too) they are pretty much bullet proof.
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Old 04-05-2014, 12:56 AM   #16
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Ditto on lighting the propane stove to get propane moving through the lines.
It works.
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Old 04-05-2014, 10:59 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo View Post
Ditto on lighting the propane stove to get propane moving through the lines.
It works.
I do the same, as well as before trying to light the hot water tank or run the furnace.
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Old 04-06-2014, 06:03 PM   #18
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Last year when I plugged the Parkliner into the house electricity the battery got a little hot after a few hours. Do I need some kind of limiter or adapter when doing this? (Have been asking since January for a battery tray to be shipped. I hope that we can get one.)
Thanks for the help!
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Old 04-06-2014, 06:39 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by DJO View Post
Last year when I plugged the Parkliner into the house electricity the battery got a little hot after a few hours. Do I need some kind of limiter or adapter when doing this? (Have been asking since January for a battery tray to be shipped. I hope that we can get one.)
Thanks for the help!
if the battery is getting hot if only plugged in for a few hours, that sounds to me like it is being overcharged or gone bad. Does your controller have any settings on it that might change the way it charges or to reflect the type of battery it can charge.

Perhaps if you say what type/brand of battery you have and the make and model of your controller hopefully someone will have a better answer for you.

Edit to add: I would disconnect the battery and let it sit overnight and then take a new reading on it. If its not still fully charged then thats a real good indicator your in need of a new battery.
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Old 04-06-2014, 08:20 PM   #20
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Contact Chandler...

I know they prefer doing the battery upgrade in their shop because there is some custom fitting of the new battery box...but they will have to ship it to a fiberglass place since your kinda far lol. I was glad I did the 1000 mile round trip got some upgrades and stuff and was nice seeing the factory where my #003 was born!
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