rivets - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 11-12-2011, 08:34 AM   #15
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U-Hauls and Burros are rivet-free. The double-hull construction features molded cabinets and furnishings on the inside, without any through-fasteners needed.
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Old 11-12-2011, 09:13 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Roy in TO View Post
I think you hit the rivet on the head with the word ... economical.

I was given some aircraft grade rivets by a friend, I could barely get them to work with the hand unit. They simply took too much force to use. Went out and bought some regular "pop rivets" to finish the work. I've even tried some of the SS bolts with washers and the nylon lock nuts. Much more expensive, and install best with 2 people.

From an engineering perspective, I'm surprised they don't use FG raceways for conduits and strength.
If you wish to rivet fiberglass you should use aluminum rivets,fiberglass can be crushed using stainless steel or carbon steel rivets. The riveted cabinets install best with two people as well.
The word "economical" should be replaced with the word "versatile". It allows for custom work like my 13 deluxe which can't be had from any other source. My trailer is nearing 8 years old... check back with me in 25 years to see the best value possible in excellent condition! (IF I'm Still around)... otherwise you will have to check with the guy who pays a premium price to my estate for a trailer which he can treasure for many more years!
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Old 11-12-2011, 09:42 AM   #17
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I have a deluxe Scamp with7-1/2 years and 50,000 plus miles on it, and not one defective or loose fastener through the hull.
Of course esthetics are subjective, but your characterization is a bit silly and extreme. As far as function is concerned, I have owned all sorts of fiberglass trailers and the riveted trailers have held up as well or better than any others. If you are popping lots of rivets when towing then you would be damaging any other trailer through the same type of abuse.
I have owned several Scamps over 30years old in every condition imaginable and I can tell you the rivets are not an issue when it comes to refitting an antique fiberglass trailer.
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Old 11-12-2011, 09:43 AM   #18
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I think Scamps use of rivets is rather ingenius to be honest. So far I have had one broken rivet and my trailer has seen a lot of flexing and bouncing. It could have even been a pre-existing defect that caused it. They set them into acorn nuts on the inside which I think was pretty clever. As Floyd mentioned, it gives them a lot of freedom to accommodate our custom wishes. One major reason I bought a Scamp was because of that ability and willingness. Rivets have some unique qualities as well. They are not simply inferior to bolts. For one thing, they maintain tension extremely well, and the tension they exert is very uniform from one to the other. To get that kind of precision from a bolt would require a torque setting driver on each one. If the rivets were replaced with bolts they all have to be loctited or fitted with locking nuts. Rivets fill the holes they occupy, but bolts do not. That means that bolts have to create all their bonding and locating strength through clamping force. If the clamping force is insufficient, the panels will shift and the holes will enlarge even more. If the clamping force is too great the glass can crack. Something to consider when bonding materials like fiberglass. I could go on and boar everyone to tears, but you get the idea .

I do agree the shell would look better perfectly smooth, but rare is the advantage that comes without compromise.

David
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Old 11-12-2011, 09:58 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by floyd View Post
I can tell you the rivets are not an issue
Surprising, considering the frequency with which rivet issues are raised in this forum! Rivet breaks, leaks, and replacements have often been discussed over the years I've been in this forum.
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Old 11-12-2011, 10:14 AM   #20
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I had a quick question re: rivets. On my 2010 Scamp on the outside it looks like the factory puts silicone or something similar under the caps. It is already coming off on several rivets. Is this something you have to redo every year and if so what is the best stuff to use for it.
I must confess I much prefer the clean look of the Trillium with no 'pimples' on the outside.
Thanks.
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Old 11-12-2011, 10:30 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by kootenaigirl View Post
I had a quick question re: rivets. On my 2010 Scamp on the outside it looks like the factory puts silicone or something similar under the caps. It is already coming off on several rivets. Is this something you have to redo every year and if so what is the best stuff to use for it.
I must confess I much prefer the clean look of the Trillium with no 'pimples' on the outside.
Thanks.
Most likely what you are seeing is the excess sealer coming off. Most likely it is still sealed where it counts. There is no way to add more under the rivet without removing it. If you do suspect a leak, here is a product that I have used many times in the past with very good results. I have sealed many leaks due to electrolytic rivet corrosion on aluminum trailers using this product. I'm never without it. You can find it through marine suppliers where it is used extensively.

Capt. Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure
David
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Old 11-12-2011, 11:49 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by jack maloney View Post
Surprising, considering the frequency with which rivet issues are raised in this forum! Rivet breaks, leaks, and replacements have often been discussed over the years I've been in this forum.
While I have seldom seen broken , loose or missing rivets, except on those trailers with the cabinets cut or removed, I can say that rivets would not be an issue when refitting since two people could replace them all for a few dollars and an afternoon's work. I have refitted many brands of fiberglass trailers with and without rivets, and rivets are not even a consideration when you consider the work which they all have in common.
I had a great little Trillium, I discovered the bolts had rusted which held the body to the frame leaving it actually unattached, Still it is a nice trailer.
I had a Burro in which the inner and outer walls were anywhere from touching to three inches of gap.
My Compact Jr. had such flimsy furniture made from framing smaller than 1X2s and 1/8th" paneling which had broken away from nearly all of it's attachment points.
As Davidso said... "rare is the advantage that comes without compromise".

I thought this quote from the Martian Translating Device might explain the whole controversy...

" All green of skin... 800 centuries ago, their bodily fluids include the birth of half-breeds. For the fundamental truth self-determination of the cosmos, for dark is the suede that mows like a harvest."
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Old 11-12-2011, 06:21 PM   #23
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I wish I had something to contribute, other than this observation on a three year old resurrected thread---
Haven't heard from ron smith nor Raya in a very very long time.
Sherry (we don't have rivets. No advice, sorry)
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Old 11-12-2011, 06:33 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kootenaigirl View Post
I had a quick question re: rivets. On my 2010 Scamp on the outside it looks like the factory puts silicone or something similar under the caps. It is already coming off on several rivets. Is this something you have to redo every year and if so what is the best stuff to use for it.
I must confess I much prefer the clean look of the Trillium with no 'pimples' on the outside.
Thanks.
You may need to replace the caps about once every three or four years depending on UV exposure,any silicone you might see coming off from around any button is superfluous and nothing to be concerned about...
They do make button caps in various colors, Maybe I'll buy RED next time so I can claim that I have only one "measlely" little Scamp! who knows maybe it will result in larger , more private campsites.

So.... why not a Trillium?Or an Escape Trillium clone?
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Old 11-12-2011, 07:49 PM   #25
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Caps

I wonder why they don't first paint the caps white. That would extend their life.
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Old 11-12-2011, 08:28 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by honda03842 View Post
I wonder why they don't first paint the caps white. That would extend their life.
You could before you install them...Use "Fusion" paint , no primer needed. I now have indoor storage so my caps will last a longer time, but I might just consider that on the next set.
Maybe a little spray glue on and old piece of paneling to keep the caps from moving around when you spray them!
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Old 11-12-2011, 08:45 PM   #27
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I've "fusioned" all the plastic on my trailer except the caps. I just did the escape hatch about a month ago. It looks better and blocks the UV.

I may end up kicked out of the next egg rally for all the rivet caps I have . I removed a window and riveted in a panel to cover the hole. I think it took 28 rivets . If anyone complains I may just pop off the caps and hit them with dayglow orange Fusion

A fella could also write "Scamp" across the back in rivets

David
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Old 11-12-2011, 08:47 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by floyd View Post
You could before you install them...Use "Fusion" paint , no primer needed. I now have indoor storage so my caps will last a longer time, but I might just consider that on the next set.
Maybe a little spray glue on and old piece of paneling to keep the caps from moving around when you spray them!
contact paper Floyd . You know, like the drawer liner stuff.
David
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