RV pad and hookups on lake lot

[Shelia]

I'm thinking about putting an RV pad and hookups (including septic) on my lake lot to live there full time. I can't do any of the work myself so I'll need to hire it done.

Looking for a ballpark estimate (and suggestions) on concrete vs. gravel, electric, water and septic hookup and what I need to do to use it year round, as in insulating or enclosing the hookups. I live in Northeast Texas if that helps.

I realize the standard tap fees would be outside/in addition to this project.

Idea, suggestions and nice comments welcome.

[Byron Kinnaman]

The first thing you need to do is check your local zoning laws. I assume that it would be under county control. Check with the county and they can guide you in proper way to go about what you want to do.

[tractors1]

I combined the utilities (water and electric) in a small box (2x2x2ft) with a lift off lid. Easy to insulate and add a small thermostatic ceramic heater in the box to turn on and keep the water feed from freezing if it gets cold. I used Black Max rigid foam insulation glued to the inside of the walls and the bottom of the top.

To avoid painting, I had all the panels bent out of stainless steel at a local metal fab shop. Flanges on the edges made them easy to bolt together and fasten to the slab.

Been fine for 34 years.........

[steve dunham]

Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman

The first thing you need to do is check your local zoning laws. I assume that it would be under county control. Check with the county and they can guide you in proper way to go about what you want to do.

Very good point Byron . We live in a rural community on a lake and trailers are not allowed to be parked on any lake lot for more than 30 days , even if you have water, electric and sewer.
You can get an extension for up to 90 days but you need the approval of any property owner within 500 ft and the county.
We had a neighbor who parked a beat up travel trailer on a lake lot near us . It deteriorated to a point where the neighbor complained and the trailer was removed. .
Now all structures on Lake lots must meet the building / energy codes and travel trailers do not comply.
I would do your research before spending money on installing utilities and then discover it was all for naught
A well and septic system could easily run you 10 to $20 K
My deepwell and septic system cost me $10 K and that was back in 1990.

[Glenn Baglo]

I'd check septic requirements in particular. Small community on the water on Vancouver Island required a small sewage treatment plant for new builds. Cost was around $50,000 to install.

[Shelia]

It is permitted by the county in our lake subdivision and it is permitted by the bylaws and restrictions at the lake. We do have an HOA but it is made up of property owners and not a management company. They are very reasonable and as long as it looks decent and the lot is kept clean and neat they don't have a problem. A few people out there have already set up their RVs in this way but I'm not fond of the looks or permanence of their setup.

I will install a septic system which I have been told is about $3500 to $4000 by the person who has installed 95% of the systems at the lake. I am not waterfront so not many restrictions.

City water and electricity are at the road, I just have to bring them on to the lot and tap in. Put up the pole and connections, plug in for the RV etc. Trying to get opinions about whether to use gravel or concrete, pavers or close in the gravel with timbers - all kinds of options. A small storage building will be needed as well.

Lots of good information, thanks for passing it along.

[Borrego Dave]

Looks like you're getting on top of the check marks you need from the county. As far as a pad, if it was me, I'd go with concrete for the TT & whatever porch area you have in mind. Gravel would work but not as easy to keep cleared off and pavers may tend to sink a bit and become uneven for safety. An out building wouldn't be a problem on pavers or gravel.

[Byron Kinnaman]

I think concrete would be best. The one thing what ever you use it needs to drain well. Standing water at door or under the wheels in not good.
I put in a 48' by 21' patio using 12" x 12" stepping stones. There's a concrete pad, than 2" of sand the stepping stones. The back corner is 5" lower than the diagonal corner to drain when it rains. Seem to work good and don't notice the slope.

[Gerry Kiernan]

I would be inclined to lay down a substantial gravel bed. It could be surrounded by timbers to keep it contained, or concrete footings. I would also look into the possibility of putting up a timber frame with a tin roof large enough to cover the complete trailer, and have an area in it for a storage shed or bin. It could also be wide enough that you could put out your lawn or camp chairs under it in inclement weather. If you set it up right it could made so that it is drive through in case you wish to go travelling with the trailer. Your electrical service could be attached to the frame so that you just need to plug in. Water service could be put in the storage/utility shed.
This way you would have everything you need for long term stays, but also be able to go travelling if you choose.

[k corbin]

Gravel surfaces stabilized for vehicle and pedestrian traffic – CORE Driveway This link is to an example of the following concept I am describing below; there are many companies making this type of product.

If you want to do gravel you might want to consider installing a geo-grid system as part of that installation. That will give you some of the stability benefits of concrete or pavers while still allowing for water to be absorbed into the ground.

In a lot of areas it is good to retain the permeability for water movement into the soil versus having non permeable surfaces such as concrete or asphalt. It will also be a much faster installation than pavers.

Proper surface preparation of the surface bed is important for any type of installation. That means having someone who understands the soil take a look at what your lot ground consist of.