Scamp bottom of trailer--should I undercoat? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-25-2016, 06:04 AM   #15
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This is why I took scamp off my buy list .We made floor boards for the cockpit of our boat out of marine plywood and coated them with resin and then put an outdoor carpet on them they lasted a few years and then rotted out ( Our previous boat had a rounded hull so we made floorboards to compensate . Off course boats get a lot harder use then trailers . If you have the osb boards make sure you coat the edges and any holes that were made are sealed with resin .Living in SW Florida we see lots of moisture and mold down here so plywood (OS does not last long .
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Old 01-25-2016, 06:57 AM   #16
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This has been s a regular discussion topic for years. The experience of other owners has been that plywood and OSB that is encapsulated will be fine...right up until the encapsulation integrity fails, and moisture gets in. Then you get swelling, and ultimately rotting... and the swollen and rotted encapsulated wood is much more difficult to repair than if it had just been left open.

Earlier posters are correct when they say that most of the floor rot in Scamps comes from windows and through-hulls where the integrity of the seal fails, or the track drain gets filled with muck and overflows inside for periods of time holding the moisture agains the wood (from the top.)

Scamp has been in business a long time. They know their stuff. There are hard-use 30 year old stock Scamps out there with no flooring issues... but they've been well- maintained.

Use the trailer, maintain it properly and don't worry about the floor. It will serve you well.
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Old 01-25-2016, 09:08 AM   #17
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Absolutely, well said, Roger. The idea is that any kind of standing water will cause rot, and mildew. In case of those trailers with 100% glass shell, standing water will still cause mildew and, possibly, health issues. Maintenance is key.
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Old 01-25-2016, 09:51 AM   #18
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We use some REALLY high $$ "epoxy" paint here at work on some boat products. It made the hitch, bumper, etc look brand new. But unfortunately (and some people told me this would happen) it's popping back through. That's why I'm so disappointed. I figured if it was sealed it wouldnt do that...WHICH tells me I'm afraid there's an undetermined amt of moisture inside.

One other thing I forgot to mention, I'm not sure what it is, but my 2010 Scamp I bought new has a white paint? sealer? in all the water compartments on my Scamp. I'm sure that's to help repel water as well. BUT, the one thing Scamp does that I would NOT do if I was building/sealing...is leave RAW edges on the OSB. I personally feel like the fiberglass resin (IF it's on BOTH sides) is good! I just wish they had taken it to the next level and FINAL coated where screws and all go into the wood and the raw edges. After 6 yrs though...as I said earlier... my wood still looks good.

I'm VERY vigilant on leaks and one should be with an RV. This will help head off problems with rot. And really if you think it about it...that's no different than a house!
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Old 01-25-2016, 12:11 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Darral T. View Post
We use some REALLY high $$ "epoxy" paint here at work on some boat products. It made the hitch, bumper, etc look brand new. But unfortunately (and some people told me this would happen) it's popping back through. That's why I'm so disappointed. I figured if it was sealed it wouldnt do that...WHICH tells me I'm afraid there's an undetermined amt of moisture inside.

One other thing I forgot to mention, I'm not sure what it is, but my 2010 Scamp I bought new has a white paint? sealer? in all the water compartments on my Scamp. I'm sure that's to help repel water as well. BUT, the one thing Scamp does that I would NOT do if I was building/sealing...is leave RAW edges on the OSB. I personally feel like the fiberglass resin (IF it's on BOTH sides) is good! I just wish they had taken it to the next level and FINAL coated where screws and all go into the wood and the raw edges. After 6 yrs though...as I said earlier... my wood still looks good.

I'm VERY vigilant on leaks and one should be with an RV. This will help head off problems with rot. And really if you think it about it...that's no different than a house!
You need to use a rust converter like POR-15 to reduce the iron oxide as a prep before you paint the metal parts if you want it not to continue to rust.

And they don't do a final coat on the edges or bottom of the floor because experience has shown them (and now you, after six years) that it just isn't necessary. With the proper maintenance on the coach part of the trailer (windows and through-hulls) in another twenty years, your floor will look just about the same as it does today.

This really is a non-issue folks. Floor rot comes from leaks in the trailer, not from underneath the floor.
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Old 01-25-2016, 03:12 PM   #20
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You can not go wrong by undercoating. Should you not do it and something happen then you will kick yourself in the butt for not doing it.
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Old 01-25-2016, 03:24 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Darral T. View Post
BillE, my Scamp's underside OSB was coated in polyester resin (fiberglass) My Scamp is nearly 6 yo and still looks fine underneath. I keep a watchful eye one it.
My 23 year old Scamp is the same - coated on underside with fiberglass resin and still looks clean and new although it has down lots of travels in rainy season and the winter months.
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Old 01-25-2016, 05:06 PM   #22
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I also wondered (and previously asked) about the cutouts, esp the one for the shower and commode drains. It appears that the cuts are made after the wood is treated, so the cut edges are then unprotected. I think its a reasonable idea to try and seal the cut edges.
Pretty sure this has been a cause of rot / floor replacement in the amerigos...they add a toilet after the first sale and don't finish the cut-out edges..............and so it begins.
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Old 01-25-2016, 06:21 PM   #23
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You can not go wrong by undercoating. Should you not do it and something happen then you will kick yourself in the butt for not doing it.
What "something happening" are you concerned about specifically, Darwin?

While undercoating a Scamp won't be a disaster, there are a number of good reasons why NOT to do it... some of which have to do with water draining and the OSB drying naturally; some of it has to do with making necessary repair disassembly afterwards a gooey, nasty mess, and some has to do with the undercoat hiding rust that you might have otherwise prevented.

Undercoating in automotive applications isn't as necessary as it was twenty years ago, but I can't see any reason TO do it on a Scamp, and a half-dozen reasons NOT to.
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Old 01-25-2016, 07:48 PM   #24
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Well, he is somewhat worried or he wouldnt have asked the question.
A professional sprayed on product like they do on pickups would sure be a preserative and extend the life of the unit.

Preconditioning of the frame would be even better before application to insure against undetected rust.

There are many posts each year on this site concerning rusted frames and rotted flooring.

If the owner has concern about this happening, the proper application of a spray on product would be something to think about.

http://www.eastwood.com/paints/rust-solutions.html
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Old 01-25-2016, 08:10 PM   #25
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Personally I would seal the penetrations for the drains etc. and leave the bottom of the floor alone.
The polyester resin is permeable to water and this is why if the water sits pooled on top of the polyester resin covering the floor it will rot.
The water on the bottom will dry out and not damage the wood.
Seal the openings and leave the rest of the bottom alone.
If you wanted to worry about something you might think about caulking alonf the frame to try to keep the water from standing between the frame and floor.
The permeability of the polyester resin compared to the epoxy is why I chose to spend the extra money on it to glass the floor, top and bottom.
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Old 01-25-2016, 09:01 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Darwin Maring View Post
Well, he is somewhat worried or he wouldnt have asked the question.
A professional sprayed on product like they do on pickups would sure be a preserative and extend the life of the unit.
How would it extend the life of the unit? What, exactly are you trying to preserve?

If you're talking about a bedliner spray, that would be problematic on the bottom of a trailer. It's hard and would seal bolt and screw heads in so they can't be removed. It would also turn the trailer floor into a tub; not such a good idea.

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Originally Posted by Darwin Maring View Post
Preconditioning of the frame would be even better before application to insure against undetected rust.
Frame rust can be stopped for some time with POR-15 and a good coat of Rustoleum black over that. But if you cover it with undercoat and it starts rusting under the layer of undercoat, it can be neither easily seen nor, once found, easily treated because of the oily undercoat.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Darwin Maring View Post
There are many posts each year on this site concerning rusted frames and rotted flooring.
Rust you can see can be dealt with appropriately and pretty easily. Of those many posts about floor rot, how many claimed that the floor rotted out from below? Probably none. Trailer floors don't rot from the underside up, they rot from the top down where water pools on TOP of the wood and soaks it.

As I said in a post above, I can't think of a single good reason to undercoat a wood-floored trailer, but I can think of a number of really good reasons not to.
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Old 01-26-2016, 05:16 AM   #27
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If you wanted to worry about something you might think about caulking along the frame to try to keep the water from standing between the frame and floor.
.
My previous camper used self drilling scews to fasten the floor to the frame. Within four years most of those screws were rusted so bad they could be pulled out by hand. Apparently water had gotten between the floor and the frame. I believe Scamp uses similar screws yet I have never heard anyone mention this issue. Anyone pulled a screw and found rust ? Raz
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Old 01-26-2016, 07:25 AM   #28
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My old frame had several points where the holes had rusted and no screws made contact with the steel. This was where the floor was originally mounted, but had since been replaced with a "new piece of plywood so I cannot speak about what transpired.




You can see the holes mentioned in the above pictures along with the rusted out space where the shell contacted the frame on the driver's side.

However this is from a much abused trailer and a 1986 vintage.
It now had a new frame from the cutoff part extended about another 18" to reduce the load on the hitch and make the trailer more stable. This extends the bend to just outside the front of the shell.
The frame was painted with zinc rich epoxy primer to hopefully resist new rust.



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