Scamp bottom of trailer--should I undercoat? - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-26-2016, 07:29 AM   #29
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To reiterate - if the bottom of the trailer gets wet from splashed rain, it will dry. An undercoat with imperfections, which are inevitable, will create traps and keep it wet longer and may hide problems. I'd say no to undercoating.
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Old 01-26-2016, 11:23 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by P. Raz View Post
My previous camper used self drilling scews to fasten the floor to the frame. Within four years most of those screws were rusted so bad they could be pulled out by hand. Apparently water had gotten between the floor and the frame. I believe Scamp uses similar screws yet I have never heard anyone mention this issue. Anyone pulled a screw and found rust ? Raz
When we got our 73 amerigo home last fall, six out of eight bolts that held shell to frame were rusted through; the other two were rusted down to a narrow core.

We'd been thinking of putting a rubberized truck bed lining over the glass (tub) bottom as protection against rock chips...but it sounds like weep holes in the low spots inside would be a good idea, too.
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Old 01-26-2016, 07:41 PM   #31
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I've read several posts here about the POR 15. Heard of this before here but wonder...

My scamp's a 2012. Someone mentioned a few years down the line of ownership that this is a good idea. Does this entail getting under trailer with a stuff wire brush, brushing off flaking and crud and then hand painting on, followed by say a hand painting of Rustoleum gloss black?

Can't see how a rattle can would be practical or neat underneath, nor would I want to overspray a lot on the resin coated OSB. Just curious, that's all.

Btw, I live in NY but trailer is cold stored indoors in winter. Frame still looks good as I recall, but thinking toward future maintenance.

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Old 01-26-2016, 07:49 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by CampyTime View Post
I've read several posts here about the POR 15. Heard of this before here but wonder...

My scamp's a 2012. Someone mentioned a few years down the line of ownership that this is a good idea. Does this entail getting under trailer with a stuff wire brush, brushing off flaking and crud and then hand painting on, followed by say a hand painting of Rustoleum gloss black?

Can't see how a rattle can would be practical or neat underneath, nor would I want to overspray a lot on the resin coated OSB. Just curious, that's all.

Btw, I live in NY but trailer is cold stored indoors in winter. Frame still looks good as I recall, but thinking toward future maintenance.

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Yep. Just like that.

I have an '07 Toyota FJ Cruiser. The rear frame under the back door is notorious for rusting as are the rear frame rails behind the axle. Every couple of years, I crawl under it and do the deed. The first time, I borrowed my buddie's hoist at his auto shop. This year, I flaked a little... and dispensed with the brush. I just crawled under it in my driveway and used rattle-can Rustoleum rust reducer (essentially the POR 15 part) and then rattle can sprayed everything with Rustoleum heavy rust primer (the red stuff) and then re-sprayed it with flat black Rustoleum as a top coat.

So far, so good.
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Old 01-26-2016, 08:21 PM   #33
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Thanks Rog. So after the rust reformer, you still need the primer before painting? So the reformer only converts the rusty crap to a paintable surface, necessitating the primer. Got it.

So this is just something to keep an eye on right? Not a go out and do it preventative maintenance thing unless it needs doing? Like I said, frame looked good, probably only has a tad of surface oxidation. But I'll inspect more closely in spring.

Thanks again. Just looked up the POR and Tis not cheap.


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Old 01-26-2016, 08:28 PM   #34
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Also, should a degreaser be used on frame first or no?


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Old 01-26-2016, 08:36 PM   #35
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You can apply all kinds of rust preventive stuff to bolts and frame issues.. and do it over and over and over again every year. OR, you can do it "once and done." POR-15... all the way


POR-15 isn't cheap or simple to apply.. what is your time, effort and your asset worth?
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Old 01-27-2016, 02:04 AM   #36
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Applying a protective coating to your frame before any rust starts is a good thing. I do have to ask those of you that live in areas that are prone to rust from salt ect, if just coating three sides of your frames is a + or - as the top edge has only the factory paint and you can't see any rust problems starting. I do remember one member here doing a shell off resto, coating the frame and also adding a thin material between the shell and frame to cut down any chafing.
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Old 01-27-2016, 06:20 AM   #37
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The pictures in post #28 illustrate the problem. I am pretty sure that my Scamp does not have any sealer (mastic) between the floor and the frame. I intend to keep the rust in check by spraying those gaps with either oil or WD40, which should wick in.

I also remember somebody putting the sealer between the frame and the floor when restoring their rig.
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Old 01-27-2016, 06:34 AM   #38
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Applying a protective coating to your frame before any rust starts is a good thing. I do have to ask those of you that live in areas that are prone to rust from salt ect, if just coating three sides of your frames is a + or - as the top edge has only the factory paint and you can't see any rust problems starting. I do remember one member here doing a shell off resto, coating the frame and also adding a thin material between the shell and frame to cut down any chafing.
Dave, all you can do is what you can do. If you're starting from scratch on a frame-off resto, then of course it would be prudent to do the entire frame. If you're doing preventative on an existing frame, you'll only be able to do three sides.

You have to keep this in perspective though... what you're doing is retarding the aging process... but a torsion axle's design life is only about 15 years, and if you get that out of it, you've done well. How many folks keep a car more than ten or fifteen years?

These trailers were never meant to have forty years' worth of use out of them... but they're getting it now. ANY trailer you can get twenty years out of is amazing. Most stickies are junk in less than 10 years anywhere that it rains regularly. Unless you store it inside on blocks and maintain it meticulously, figure on a frame-off resto if you're going to keep it past that.

So you're not going to extend the life of the trailer past its design-life... you're just trying to keep it going until it's normal end-of-life cycle...
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Old 01-27-2016, 06:50 AM   #39
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All you can do is what you can do. I agree that this is true.

I just went to POR 15 website to do more reading on this product. They actually recommend a 3 step process of their products: water based degreaser, metal prep and then the POR rust reformer.

I get the degreaser part I guess (road grease) but not sure if the metal prep would be necessary on a newer trailer? Talks about etching the bare metal so the POR 15 adheres better.

Would someone who has used this 3 step process chime in for me? I just am hoping to learn as much as possible through others experiences as I have the POR 15 site I can read anytime.

Sounds like the rustproofing is something I should do before a problem arises.

Thanks for your thoughts.

Wendy


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Old 01-27-2016, 06:50 AM   #40
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It's very easy to say use POR 15. On a body off frame, no problem. But how many who recommend it have actually done a frame on their backs under the trailer. After spending some time reading the can at the local auto parts store I decided against it. Paint can be removed with thinner. This stuff has to wear off. I have no desire to go through life looking like a Holstein.

Dave you are correct. You can't do the top without removing the body. If you have a tubular frame you can't do the inside even with the body off. Basically you do what you can. As to salt, by May it's gone from the roads. Not much open for camping earlier than that anyway. If that were not the case, you would probably need a new frame every 10 years or so. Raz
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Old 01-27-2016, 07:58 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by CampyTime View Post
All you can do is what you can do. I agree that this is true.

I just went to POR 15 website to do more reading on this product. They actually recommend a 3 step process of their products: water based degreaser, metal prep and then the POR rust reformer.

I get the degreaser part I guess (road grease) but not sure if the metal prep would be necessary on a newer trailer? Talks about etching the bare metal so the POR 15 adheres better.

Would someone who has used this 3 step process chime in for me? I just am hoping to learn as much as possible through others experiences as I have the POR 15 site I can read anytime.

Sounds like the rustproofing is something I should do before a problem arises.

Thanks for your thoughts.

Wendy


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Frankly, Wendy... if you don't yet have a rust problem yet, my advice would be to check your frame from time to time and just spray it with Rustoleum black when it needs it. You'll see the factory frame paint start to get thin... spray the welds and joints and make sure they're well covered in a thick layer of paint. If you don't have rust yet, there's not much point in letting it start just so you can use POR-15. A little preventative spraypaint goes a long ways. If you've got a little surface rust starting, hit it with a wire brush, and then spray it with the Rustoleum rust reducer, heavy rust primer, and then more black. You won't have issues if you stay on top of it... and really, checking once a season should be more than adequate.

The first time I did my VERY rusty FJ 'Cruiser frame, I did it with POR-15, but I didn't paint over it. It wore through and began rusting again in about two years... I've just kept it up with the rattle can stuff... and it's doing just fine. And it's a LOT less work to touch it up than to have to re-coat the entire frame.
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Old 01-27-2016, 08:53 AM   #42
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I think that with the new frame and so so paint a coat of good single part polyurethane enamel will take care of business. Epoxies are excellent primers but will not hold gloss. We prime with epoxy and protect that with polyurethane.

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