Scamp bottom of trailer--should I undercoat? - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-24-2016, 09:24 AM   #1
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Scamp bottom of trailer--should I undercoat?

I have a question that undoubtedly someone on here has investigated.

I have a brand new 2016 Scamp 13 ft. trailer and the flooring underneath is what appears to be bare oriented stand board (OSB. I do not know if Scamp purchases waterproofs OSB or treats it in anyway (my guess is no).

So my question is ...should I undercoat the OSB on the bottom of the camper with automotive truck bed liner...or use an outdoor water proofing such as Thompson....or leave it bare?

I am looking for your thoughts and recommendations.
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Old 01-24-2016, 09:54 AM   #2
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The floors can and do rot out, but the damage is usually where there are leaks that allows water into the interior spaces and stay. The floor rarely (if ever) rots from the bottom up.
The topside is sprayed ( I think the bottom too) with polyester resin to "waterproof"
If water stands it will rot. for example, under the carpet etc.
I am sure others will add more information.
On my rebuild I fiberglassed with cloth and epoxy both sides and the edges of 3/4' plywood.
Keep an eye on leaking windows (keep the tracks and drains clean) loose rivets etc.
I don't know what to suggest as I am a newbie, just rebuilding with an eye to improving reliability.
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Old 01-24-2016, 10:21 AM   #3
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Redbarron55, you are just the person to ask my question to. Did you fiberglass both sides before you put the new floor back in or did you do the bottom side, put in the wood and then fiberglass the top. Thanks.
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Old 01-24-2016, 10:45 AM   #4
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Thanks guys, mine is a brand new trailer so my intent is not to dis-assemble everything. So glass and resin is out.


My concern about undercoating is it may hold moisture and not breath.
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Old 01-24-2016, 10:47 AM   #5
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Undercoating trailer ..

I used automotive undercoating (black tarry stuff in a spray can) to undercoat my trailer - which also had OSB subflooring. It can't hurt.
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Old 01-24-2016, 10:47 AM   #6
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I cut and fitted the 3/4" plywood first. I also took a router and rounded the edges over so that the fiberglass cloth would form to it. The floor in the front was the first I removed and the ridge left from the old fiberglass was the guide for fitting.
I bought 6 1/2 oz. cloth and epoxy resin on ebay and the cost was not too bad for the protection.
When it was time to reinstall I cut strips from the cloth and layed up the bonding to the shell. The hardest part was fitting the wall in front of the door to get the door opening square.
I also bonded in 1/2" plywood bulkheads that make up the new front bathroom area.
I did not fiberglass these bulkheads overall.
On later bulkheads I bonded them in with polyurethane sealant/glue.
All of the floors are fiberglassed and bonded with that same glue to the frame. I also added frame work to the edge of the shell for greater strength overall. The plywood was affixed with screws closer than originally along with the bonding.
While working on the rest of the trailer I had leaking windows and the water pooled up on the floor, but none penetrated the fiberglass into the wood.
I layed down 1/4" cork underlayment over the floor (attached with the 3M spray adhesive). Under the bed I used some carpet and the walkspace I used vinyl laminate "wood" planks with adhesive tabs.
All in all I am happy with the way it turned out.
Connie wanted a camper with out bugs and creepy crawlies. Toward this end I filled in all of the vents etc for refrigerators and heaters etc. Lots of fiberglass work.
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Old 01-24-2016, 11:49 AM   #7
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My last trailer had an OSB floor sandwiched between the vinyl floor covering and a woven poly fabric. This trapped moisture and the flooring rotted in several places. After I replaced and repaired the rotten sections I removed the poly fabric from the bottom and applied deck stain. I also used Krown T40 on the trailer frame to prevent rusting. I notice it wicked into the adjacent wood and waterproofed it with no apparent side effects.
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Old 01-24-2016, 11:52 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ludleywadzlo View Post
I used automotive undercoating (black tarry stuff in a spray can) to undercoat my trailer - which also had OSB subflooring. It can't hurt.
Wood needs to breathe One time I used the undercoating on a fence post. It rotted out. The post with no undercoating was OK.

Unless Scamp says to do it, when I pick up my 2016 Scamp, I'll leave It..

Just me
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Old 01-24-2016, 01:04 PM   #9
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BillE, my Scamp's underside OSB was coated in polyester resin (fiberglass) My Scamp is nearly 6 yo and still looks fine underneath. I keep a watchful eye one it. What bugs me the most is my bumper and other parts of the frame keeps rusting? I'm concerned about welding joints internally and those areas of the frame more than I am the floor.
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Old 01-24-2016, 01:25 PM   #10
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POR-15 rust preventative

Darral T

Use POR-15 to paint your frame. Great product
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Old 01-24-2016, 04:34 PM   #11
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Agree. The wood is treated with resin on the bottom, so no need to worry there. Best thing you can do for your floor is to watch for topside leaks from windows, vents, and plumbing. When new, check for any assembly defects that allow water entry, but after that just keep an eye on things. I wash and wax mine twice a year. That's a good time to look for seepage around windows. Check the floor inside the benches and cabinets, too, as water can run down behind the insulation.

I also agree that the factory paint on the frame isn't that great. One of these days I'll redo with POR. With a new trailer, you shouldn't have to worry for several years at least.

Don't worry too much and just get out there and enjoy the trailer. The more you use it, the quicker you'll notice anything that needs attention. The badly deteriorated trailers have usually been left uncovered and unused for many years.
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Old 01-24-2016, 05:38 PM   #12
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When I visited the Scamp factory, I was told the floor is resin coated on both sides, then it is bonded to the shell. Driving on wet roads should not be a problem, it dries up when you stop.

The frame paint is pretty useless, traveling on gravel roads wears it off fast. Traveling on salted roads will make the frame rust. I repainted the frame with Rustoleum and the inaccessible surfaces that I could not paint I undercoat with WD40, sprayed on twice a year.
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Old 01-24-2016, 06:36 PM   #13
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I also wondered (and previously asked) about the cutouts, esp the one for the shower and commode drains. It appears that the cuts are made after the wood is treated, so the cut edges are then unprotected. I think its a reasonable idea to try and seal the cut edges.
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Old 01-24-2016, 08:04 PM   #14
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This is quite true and in my side bath 16" Scamp that was true. The OSB was well soaked, swollen and rotted.
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