Scamp ground clearance? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-23-2017, 12:05 AM   #15
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Name: Josh
Trailer: In the market
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Originally Posted by Carol H View Post
... I would not take it four wheel driving into a boulder stewed road though....
Hi Carol - Why wouldn't you? Does it have to do with the bumpy ride on a single axle others have mentioned (securing gear wouldn't be a problem for us), or something else? Do you know of others who've done so and had bad experiences or damaged their camper? If so, how?
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Old 06-23-2017, 03:05 AM   #16
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Welcome to FGRV Josh. There are a couple members here that do some pretty good off road towing. Hopefully they will chime in some with some detailed info for you.
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Old 06-23-2017, 07:21 AM   #17
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Thanks Dave! I'll hope they do.
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Old 06-23-2017, 07:45 AM   #18
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Name: Steven
Trailer: Casita SD 2013
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Originally Posted by oldcircusbread View Post
Hi Piperjim - I'm wondering HOW the shop increased you 4" in clearance and what it cost you as well as how it affected handling. I'm also curious how it'd compare to a truck camper in ability to get off road. I much prefer the idea of a fiber eggshell camper for the ability to leave camp but I'm afraid I'd sacrifice the ability to get to some of the places I'd want to go. How does it handle when you have a steep decline followed by a steep incline (do you jackknife vertically?)? Another commenter here said they'd not take it on an unimproved boulder strewn road. Sadly, lots of the places I'd want to go here in the Rockies are just like that. Can they be traversed slowly (with LT tires it's a bumpy ride anyway in the truck, so I'd like to go slow to save on suspension)? Also, how cold have you gotten it? Can it handle 30 or 40 below temps with it's heater? How has the a/c been on the other extreme? How does its siding put up with the sun?
We have camped in our Casita at 17 below zero. You will have condensation issues at that temp and at 40 below especially with a wind don't plan on 75 deg interior temps. . None of the FG trailers are built for Arctic conditions . We had our Scamp raised and for me , I found it to be less stable when traveling in high winds .
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Old 06-23-2017, 08:32 AM   #19
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Name: Jim
Trailer: Scamp 19 5'er
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The shop installed a steel rectangular tube (4" x 2" and 1/4" thick) between the axle and the frame. The cost was $400. No changes in handling. I stay on pavement, so can't answer about boulder jumping. Note, this mod doesn't raise the axle any, so you've still got to be concerned with axle clearance.

We've stayed in the camper as cold as 16F. The heater ran practically the whole night and we had a lot of condensation, especially in the windows the next morning....a lot.
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Old 06-23-2017, 09:55 AM   #20
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I'm not sure what you mean by a "boulder-strewn road." I've taken our stock Scamp 13 on graded forest roads with shallow wash-outs and protruding bedrock outcroppings. With care, it can go pretty much anywhere my stock Honda Pilot tow vehicle can reasonably go. A Flexiride axle, with an adjustable axle arm angle, might be a nice upgrade.

But if you mean rock-crawling Jeep trails and river beds, you'll need a whole new frame, not just an axle upgrade, and a different kind of coupler. Might want to reinforce the thin fiberglass shell, too, and doors and drawers and cupboards and...

...then there is this: Scamp 19 Bookdocker's Dream

Forty below.... I don't think so, and I don't care if you're talking Fahrenheit or Celsius.
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Old 06-23-2017, 11:23 AM   #21
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Trailer: 2011 Scamp 13'
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My two cents worth... We have a 2011 13' Scamp which we take mostly on paved or compacted dirt or gravel roads. We, unintentionally, had to take what looked like an OK paved road (on the map) in Washington state which turned out to be riddled with largely "invisible to the eye" potholes. The road was in and out of sunlight which made visibility poor. There was no turning back once we started on the road. We drove cautiously and relatively slowly.

Upon inspection the outside seemed to be OK but we found that the door to our cooler had broken fiberglass at the hinges. In addition, the cutlery drawer front fell off. We found a long screw on the floor and never found out where it belonged originally. As you might imagine, bungy cords did NOT do an adequate job of keeping cabinets closed in this situation and stuff was strewn everywhere.

Scamps, in my mind, are of "middle of the road" (pardon the pun) construction. They are not made to take rough abuse. Personally, as much as I love our Scamp, I would choose a rugged trailer made for off-road use, in your case, rather than trying to modify a Scamp.
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Old 06-23-2017, 02:01 PM   #22
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Name: Steve
Trailer: Scamp 13
California
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I have taken my 13 Scamp on un-maintained forest service roads just short of needing 4wd to traverse safely. The Scamp is not made for this type of travel There is not enough lateral strength in design and the trailer racks badly. The press board cabinet doors will pull from their hinge screws. The base cabinet mounting screws will pull out of their press wood floors. It also gets racked badly in the closet rivets and cabinet rivets since their mounted through to the walls with the bubble insulation and what we call rat fur between the fiberglass structures. You will have to bungee all the cabinet doors closed as stuff inside the cabinets pushes out and opens the doors. once the doors start swinging their done for.

I'm not saying you cant do it but there is a price to pay for doing so. If you know what your doing where your going and travel so slow the snails honk at you to get out of the way you can get there. It is prudent that after any excursions like that you get under your trailer and check the frame welds and high stress areas very carefully. The Scamps frame is very light weight construction and some have suffered fatigue failure.

Just watch out poorly maintained rods usually come to dead ends and turning around a trailer could be very trying especially when its off grade and you cant unhitch the trailer.
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