Scamp Trailer Deluxe - Rivets Or Screws ?

[John Cole]

Can anyone who has owned or has seen the Scamp Deluxe trailer's in the 13' or 16' models now produced by Scamp , tell me how all the wood cabinets/closet are attached to inside of their trailers ? ...... Thanks

[C&G in FL]

Riveted from the outside.


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[floyd]

The cabinets on the Deluxe are not riveted in place.
They are attached with screws through the hull.
After eleven years and seventy thousand miles we have not lost a single screw.

[RogerDat]

Originally Posted by floyd

The cabinets on the Deluxe are not riveted in place.
They are attached with screws through the hull.
After eleven years and seventy thousand miles we have not lost a single screw.

That is pretty good I tend to have a couple more screws loose every year. Might explain why I'm falling apart.

[Timber Wolf]

Originally Posted by RogerDat

That is pretty good I tend to have a couple more screws loose every year. Might explain why I'm falling apart.

And then some of us (speaking for myself) may have had screws loose to begin with.

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by CPW

Riveted from the outside.


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Can't believe I said that. I meant to say screwed from the outside. Screws are under caps.


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[redbarron55]

On my rebuild I used SS countersunk washers and screws to hold in all of my cabinets (wood). I have no caps, but I put a dab of Gorilla Glue in the holes and under the screw/washer to seal it all up.
I would rather have the screw heads and washers than the caps.
Either way the resultant seal is better than the rivets working in the holes and working loose in the fiberglass.
While the fiberglass bulkheads may add some stiffness it is limited by the lack of the solid connection between the shell and bulkhead. This constant working will loosen any rivet.
The wood backing up the shell is more secure and bonds tighter in my opinion.
In my case I cut away the Ensolite along the bond joint and glued the new cabinets and bulkheads in along with screws as described for a stiffer build.

[MarkyVasquez]

Wow, all this time I've been told to only use aluminum rivets. Of course with the usual scare. If you use screws the fiberglass shell will split in half and kill someone or your family. Now I find out Scamp the manufacture, has been using them all along. There is so much misinformation out there. By the way I also use airbags(aargh I'm going to die!). An engineer explained to me why the trucking industry uses them and how they do have weight distribution and why the industry doesn't use WDH. I was also told not to tow with a 4 cylinder, until these engineers explained to me the trucking industry horsepower and torque to load weight and size. I was told on one of the forums, " you don't want the tail wagging the dog effect with trailer sway." The engineer told me 18 wheelers have a very big tail! Lol! Have a great day!
Marky


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[Jon in AZ]

Originally Posted by MarkyVasquez

Wow, all this time I've been told to only use aluminum rivets. Of course with the usual scare. If you use screws the fiberglass shell will split in half and kill someone or your family. Now I find out Scamp the manufacture, has been using them all along. There is so much misinformation out there...

Different application, different fastener. The old argument is about fastening fiberglass cabinets to the fiberglass shell, and the debated alternatives are aluminum rivets versus SS bolts and nuts. Here we're talking about fastening wood cabinets to the fiberglass shell with SS screws. The alternative would be internal tabbing, a la Escape. Not quite the same thing.

Had to chuckle at your larger point, though... we do tend to take our preferences and opinions seriously here! LOL

[floyd]

Originally Posted by MarkyVasquez

Wow, all this time I've been told to only use aluminum rivets. Of course with the usual scare. If you use screws the fiberglass shell will split in half and kill someone or your family. Now I find out Scamp the manufacture, has been using them all along. There is so much misinformation out there. By the way I also use airbags(aargh I'm going to die!). An engineer explained to me why the trucking industry uses them and how they do have weight distribution and why the industry doesn't use WDH. I was also told not to tow with a 4 cylinder, until these engineers explained to me the trucking industry horsepower and torque to load weight and size. I was told on one of the forums, " you don't want the tail wagging the dog effect with trailer sway." The engineer told me 18 wheelers have a very big tail! Lol! Have a great day!
Marky


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Bravo! Just shows that a healthy skepticism is at the root of all progress!

The screws of course, are wood screws. While it would be fine to use machine screws and nylocks on fiberglass cabinets, wood screws would not be practical.

Wow!! Those train drivers seem to know a lot about towing! (but they would, wouldn't they?)

Having had a CDL from inception and a "D" license before that, I can tell you that there is very little correlation between conventional semi-trucks and RV trailering.

[redbarron55]

As a clarification the Scamp I had the rear "Wood" cabinets were not fastened with stainless steel screws, just plain rusty wood screws.
As an aside when I installed my bonded wood cabinets I used aircraft countersunk (flat head 100*) SS sheet-metal "B" tip screws. They don't have a point and I drilled pilot holes into the oak for then as they will grip better and not split the wood since they are not tapered like wood screws.


with these washers



to spread out the load. Actually since the wood was bonded to the shell without the Ensolite between the load after cure of the glue is spread out along the entire bond line and not concentrated at the screws.

[MarkyVasquez]

Thanks for the info guys,
Godspeed.
Marky