Smoking Batteries (was: Battery problem in our Parkliner) - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-11-2013, 10:01 AM   #15
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By George I think you'd got the right schematic now. Plenty of EEs about if not.

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Old 05-11-2013, 10:03 AM   #16
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Jim,
I don't believe it'll make one bit of difference. It's ok to connect the way your diagram shows, it's also ok to connect to one battery, they're still in parallel will be seen by the charger as one battery.

You'll find something on the internet to support almost any idea or thought, in this case no harm is done because it just doesn't matter.
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Old 05-11-2013, 10:14 AM   #17
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Here is a quote "IMPORTANT: In parallel systems, always pull your main cables from opposite corners of the battery bank! (as in the above drawings)This way all the batteries are charged and discharged equally. Disappointing performance and premature battery failure await those that don't heed this simple rule."


Perhaps this is what happens to Parkliner's Optima batteries which should be good for 5 years.
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Old 05-11-2013, 10:19 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
Here is a quote "IMPORTANT: In parallel systems, always pull your main cables from opposite corners of the battery bank! (as in the above drawings)This way all the batteries are charged and discharged equally. Disappointing performance and premature battery failure await those that don't heed this simple rule."


Perhaps this is what happens to Parkliner's Optima batteries which should be good for 5 years.
Jim

It makes no difference at all especially when the batteries are right next to each other,they are in the same configuration either way and are in parallel.

I don't know where they come up with some of this stuff but.....

So far we have no indication that I can tell from the O.P. what she thinks happened,do we?

I can not discern enough from the single picture and the way it is framed to tell how they are really connected anyway.

I do know those steel straps just look like an accident designed to happen!
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Old 05-11-2013, 10:37 AM   #19
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Isn't it the case that one could simply put a jumper positive to positive and neg to neg and tap the jumpers mid run to the converter? I think we're brainwashed by those water pipe analogies. Isn't the "juice" (difference in potential) more or less physically everywhere at once rather than sequentially following a roadmap? I bet I'm in trouble now! I have a lot of dunce hats--one for every subject.

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Old 05-11-2013, 10:40 AM   #20
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I think it is due to the circuits in the converter/smart charger reading voltages and the charger shutting off when the first battery is charged but the second isn't in the incorrect setup thereby reducing your total. By connecting it the correct way, that will not happen.
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Old 05-11-2013, 10:41 AM   #21
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Isn't it the case that one could simply put a jumper positive to positive and neg to neg and tap the jumpers mid run to the converter? I think we're brainwashed by those water pipe analogies. Isn't the "juice" (difference in potential) more or less physically everywhere at once rather than sequentially following a roadmap? I bet I'm in trouble now! I have a lot of dunce hats--one for every subject.

jack
You've got it Jack. All at once or close enough to not matter. Which ever way is most convenient.
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Old 05-11-2013, 10:54 AM   #22
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I think it is due to the circuits in the converter/smart charger reading voltages and the charger shutting off when the first battery is charged but the second isn't in the incorrect setup thereby reducing your total. By connecting it the correct way, that will not happen.
Simply put it don't happen that way...
Electricity works a bit differently...
Both batteries will be charged to the same voltage no matter which way you connect them. Each battery will draw the amount of current it needs to charge at the same time. Since electricity travels at the speed of light it doesn't take long before the potential is in all places. I don't know about you but I can't measure the speed of light over a few inches of wire. From there Kirchhoff's Law and Ohm's Law take over.

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Old 05-11-2013, 10:59 AM   #23
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Connecting a Carger to Two Batterys

I think that the example and reason given is hocus-pocus. Unless your 12" long piece of wire between the two batteries ground posts is about a #16 you are just not going to drop any real voltage, even at 10 amps. I see it as technically correct, but an unnecessary concern in RV's. If it is, you need a bigger wire between your two batteries.

In fact, if it was a concern with a 12" piece of wire, how could we ever charge our trailers battery(s) from the TV's battery, as they are all connected in parallel and that wire is how many feet long?

That is a concern that only (Big Bang) Sheldon could dream up.


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See post#11 for diagram of proper hook up to your converter/charger. This eliminates the slave battery situation another source http://www.gearseds.com/files/twobat_onechgr2.pdf
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Old 05-11-2013, 11:02 AM   #24
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Hey,lets leave Sheldon out of this!
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Old 05-11-2013, 11:05 AM   #25
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As long as the batteries are the same,matching batteries then it does not matter which of those 2 methods are used.

If the batteries do not match then they will not both likely be charged optimally but they will still be charged mostly.

If the batteries are at opposite ends of the trailer then the resistance of the wire may be a factor but not requiring a silly method of connection even if it would be ideal?

As noted above this is exactly what the tow vehicle is doing when charging the trailer battery too.
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Old 05-11-2013, 11:31 AM   #26
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In my UHaul, I installed a 30 amp circuit breaker right at the battery terminal so that any wire past the battery terminal itself is protected.
This may be really basic questions, but I am certainly no expert on RV wiring.

1. Did you install the circuit breaker on the wire feeding the batteries so that, in the event the converter goes crazy, it cannot give the batteries too many amps at once? Or did you install it on the wires leaving the batteries? Would there be any reason to do both?
2. The Parkliner has a 45 AMP Progressive Dynamics converter. If the OP were to install a circuit breaker (in the correct location) would they put in a 30? 45's look to be rare-ish. A 50?

Again, I apologize for the very basic questions, but I learn alot from everyone in these forums. I tried to Google search it but wasn't coming up with much that was helpful.

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Old 05-11-2013, 11:37 AM   #27
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Thanks so much for all the eyes on this and the comments. It is really much appreciated.

I see no melted insulation or damaged wires, Paz. I'm do wonder if the using these type of batteries requires the wiring to be different as Jim is flagging. I took an intro to EE class 20 years and but don't remember much, should have paid more attention, (not that it would have helped since this is newer technology)

Unfortunatey we were long distance buyers and can't easily bring it back, but we will definitely have it looked at closer and make sure the converter checks out some place local.



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Old 05-11-2013, 11:38 AM   #28
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As for having a metal strap running across the top of a battery, that is quite simply dangerous and a foolish thing to do. Not trying to sound mean about it, but just trying to be ( brutally ) honest.....that is dangerous.
Any ideas on how to install something that would be better?

When I Google Optima batteries (or really any battery for that matter, including the one in my truck) they mostly have a steel bar holding the battery down.

Is the main concern the metal strap has more potential flex than a steel bar? Do you think that as long as the metal strap is secure it is likely ok?

Just asking, hoping for someone to convince me one way or another!

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