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Old 05-17-2014, 08:33 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by hos View Post
Hello, I have a Subaru Outback that I thought could tow more than 2000 pounds but that is what the manual says.

Are there any small RVs that ya'll have successfully towed with an Outback?
Have you seen the thread Trailer Weights in the Real World? - it will give you some ideas as to what brands sizes of trailers your Outback can tow.
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Old 05-17-2014, 09:41 AM   #22
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"If(sic) may also be a good bet that that Subaru is now testing to the SAE J2807 which is a test to determine if the vehicle can tow safely what the manufacture says it can".

Check out the "Highway Gradeability" section here: Tow Ratings Pass the Sniff Test - Performance Requirements - The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) - Automobile Magazine

Per my 2014 Subaru Outback's owner's manual, the car, with the 2.5i engine and CVT, is certified to 2700 lbs. when towing a trailer with brakes.

However, it also states, "When towing a trailer on a long uphill grade continuously for over 5 miles with an outside temperature of 104 deg F or above", maximum total trailer weight drops to 1350 lbs."

While not conclusive, this would suggest that Subaru, if not actually using SAE 2807 , has considered, or something similar, it in their evaluation of towing capacity.

I will be taking my shakedown cruise towing our Little Joe from South Louisiana to the GSMNP, some 1500 miles round trip, and will post on the results.

This vehicle was purchased to tow the Little Joe; loaded ready to go at 1740 lbs. Tongue weight is at about 180 lbs. I am currently installing an 11 lb LPG tank to reduce the weight further. Hardly used anything on the 20 lb anyway. Note: The Little Joe was also purchased as the minimum that would allow my wife and I to travel in comfort and with reasonable economy. Former TV: 2004 Mazda Tribute.

With a tow capacity of 2700 and a tongue weight of 200, you can see that I am well within the limits.

I don't believe in running right to the limit of anything. I try to do everything with at least a 20% safety factor when possible. With a tow weight of 2700 and a trailer weight of 1740, I didn't ask, "What else can I load on to hit 2700?" I'm still looking for ways to lower my tow weight.

Also, I think tongue weight is determined by the ability of the cars structure to carry the load. Just my opinion. Don't take it as any more that that. ---Nod to Bob "Caveat" Miller 8-{D}
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Old 05-17-2014, 12:18 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by The Minimalist View Post


However, it also states, "When towing a trailer on a long uphill grade continuously for over 5 miles with an outside temperature of 104 deg F or above", maximum total trailer weight drops to 1350 lbs."

While not conclusive, this would suggest that Subaru, if not actually using SAE 2807 , has considered, or something similar, it in their evaluation of towing capacity.

or it suggests they are and know its limitations! ;-)

Important to note Subaru is not advertising that their vehicles have passed the test! Actually only one of the big manufactures is currently.

If and when the test finally becomes the standard that all the manufactures set their tow ratings to perhaps we well see a down grading of the tow capacity of the Outback as well, just as we saw with a number of trucks in the two years leading up to when they were all suppose to be using the test.

The mention of extreme temps and warnings about towing in them in the owners manual isn't restricted to a Subaru either! It not uncommon when traveling in the Cascade mountains in the summer months to see many a big truck pulled over part way up on a hot day to give the truck a break. In talking with many of them they do have full tow packages and extra transmission coolers but towing on a long grade in high temps is not a nice thing to do to any vehicle.
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Old 05-17-2014, 12:36 PM   #24
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Small things

We tow small.

To insure towing within the temperature bounds of our tow vehicle we try to tow early in the day when it's cooler (good for the tires also). As well we have the ability to manually turn on our engine fans before we begin a hill (installed a lighted dash board switch).

These are admittedly small things but they are in a positive direction.

218,000 happy miles discovering North America over 10 years, the last 7 towing and no failures, presently joyfully in Newfoundland.

Norm
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Old 05-17-2014, 01:12 PM   #25
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Mike how is you little hauley doing I love my snoozy I was just saying my 2friends have 2012 and 2013 modem outback both say 2700 tow rating 200. Lb tongue weight
Since replacing the axle early last fall, I have not had any problems beyond loose screws on the door latch and striker plate. The shell seems plenty strong.

Norm, would it be fair to say that you are experiencing New-found joy?
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Old 05-17-2014, 01:58 PM   #26
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New-found Joy

Mike,

You are true there.

It's 70F here, the warmest we've been since we left Florida.

In the morning we went to see one of the 9 blue whales that died in the ice this spring, shocking large.

Spent the afternoon at Norris Point harbour listening to music and skimming stones. We snacked on cod fish bites and fries.

For supper we just picked up two cooked lobsters ($16) topped it off with shortbread/lemon/coconut squares.

Now were getting ready to go out for a night of more music at the Town Hall (which seats only 150). If we can manage there's two more hours of music afterwards at the Cat Stop, a local pub.

Best this is only day two of the festival. We have a 9 course tapas meal Wednesday and a Pig Roast on Friday.

We are having a blast. Particularly happy it's warmed up. Tons of snow in the mountains and we drove by a number of still frozen lakes. The Newfoundlanders say Spring is 3 weeks late.

Back to the original post, there are numerous severe grades on the way here, though it is the downhills that concern me more than the up hills. We normally drive with our manual transmission in 4th; we did have to down shift to 3rd a couple of times. It's funny when you're going downhill, even though your speed is still 50ish, it some how feels faster going down.

The first 3 campgrounds we stopped at we were their first customers of the year.

Joy from Newfoundland....
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Old 05-17-2014, 03:09 PM   #27
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Norm... we test drove a 2010 CRV yesterday and followed an 04 today. I commented on the 04 being what you had and talked about your travels/towing experiences with the BH. Good to hear the trip is going well.
PS.... also test drove an Element. Very funky and roomy inside.
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Old 05-17-2014, 06:50 PM   #28
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Whatever....

Whatever tow vehicle/trailer you buy make sure you come to Newfoundland for two months at least once. If you can, attend the Norris Point Music festival in mid-May. You will never regret it. Live music the way it should be heard.
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Old 05-18-2014, 12:50 AM   #29
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I know it's a tough subject and everyone has great intentions. I personally need a small RV to call "home" with livestock grazing land I've rented. I don't plan on moving the rv often but when I do, it will be on flatland and during the morning hours. I'll get the transmission cooler, etc and go from there. Thanks all and I'll check back. Craig


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Originally Posted by Mike Magee View Post
Since hos says his manual states 2000 lbs, I think we can trust the accuracy of that. No need to debate the tow capacity.

Just about any 13' egg (Scamp, Casita, Boler, Trillium, etc.) should work, provided the hitch weight is kept between roughly 150 and 200 lbs. Simply use a bathroom scale to check it, and redistribute cargo if needed.
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Old 05-18-2014, 05:38 AM   #30
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Thnxs for checking in Craig and giving us some feedback.

The usual thing here. Well meaning folks get hung up on personal nits (weight and Tow Ratings's) and there are so many other important items to talk about with your future potential towing experience.

The tranny cooler is a wise decision and for the low cost all goodness.

Once you decide on trailer (ideally one with electric brakes and aerodynamics) you will need a connection system (hitch, brake controller, possible mirrors). Many options here to talk about. Some work better than others so post again when you get to that point in the process.
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Old 05-19-2014, 11:11 AM   #31
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Thanks so much. So, assuming that I am talking about a car that is towing a trailer that is near the car's towing capacity, what are some best practices to squeeze every towing pound out of the car/small truck/ etc.? Thanks again. Edit: Probably a scamp, casita.... Need to look into others. I do have a 2 inch ball hitch. It is bolted to the undercarriage.
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Old 05-19-2014, 11:20 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by Bob Miller View Post

NOW: Tell us what the manual for YOUR Subaru sez; for both towing and tongue weights, and you will get lots of help.

Yes, it can tow.
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Old 05-19-2014, 11:31 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by hos View Post
Thanks so much. So, assuming that I am talking about a car that is towing a trailer that is near the car's towing capacity, what are some best practices to squeeze every towing pound out of the car/small truck/ etc.? Thanks again. Edit: Probably a scamp, casita.... Need to look into others. I do have a 2 inch ball hitch. It is bolted to the undercarriage.
Depends. lots of people here have experience with towing with various makes, models and years of vehicles and what one needs to do in regards to adding or changing equipment etc to make for a more comfortable and stable tow depends greatly on what year and model vehicle you are talking about. Each model year is different in regards to what the vehicle has come equipped with - i.e. large or small transmission cooler, rear suspension (some might drop in rear), Class I or class II hitch?.... without more details on what year and model of Outback you have its anyones guess as to what you can do to improve the tow....
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Old 05-19-2014, 11:33 AM   #34
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1st you need to define what you have for a hitch. A simple bracket with a ball bolted to it will usually NOT support the maximum load the vehicle is rated to pull/carry.

What you usually should have is a receiver type hitch with either a 1.25" or a 2" drawbar. That usually indicates a class 2 or 3 hitch. Hitches are usually stamped or labeled with maximum limits.

There are any number of after-market hitches out there but, keep in mind, that although the hitch might be rated for, say, 3000 lbs., that rating is for the hitch assy only, and has no bearing on the vehicles towing limits, they do not change, no matter what Joe, the local trailer hitch expert, tells you.

Other items to be aware of are your tires, are they in excellent condition and inflated to the maximum pressure shown on the side wall. Shock absorbers and stuts, most seem to get a bit flaky above 75-80,000 miles when you add a trailer (others will disagree with that, but it a good thing to verify ???)

You have to have a trailer brake controller installed, that's a must have at maximum weight.

Always try to tow at minimum weight, no water in the tanks and the trailer is not a freight hauler.

First time out get your trailer weighed at a truck stop or other weigh station, you will be surprised how heavy it got.... And have at least a bathroom scale on hand to verify actual tongue weight every time you hook up

And yes, some of us are a real PITA* when it comes to observing manufacturers weight limits, but others seem to see overloading a vehicle to what ever extremes possible as a sort of competitive sport.

*PITA = "Provider of Inconvenient Trailering Advice"



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Old 05-19-2014, 11:40 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by hos View Post
Thanks so much. So, assuming that I am talking about a car that is towing a trailer that is near the car's towing capacity, what are some best practices to squeeze every towing pound out of the car/small truck/ etc.? Thanks again. Edit: Probably a scamp, casita.... Need to look into others. I do have a 2 inch ball hitch. It is bolted to the undercarriage.
Out of the box many vehicles make lousy tow vehicles and many of them have high tow ratings. Doesn't make any sense. There is a lot of info out there if you know where to look on how to optimize your vehicle to get the most out of it.

Set up with the right equipment is a biggy. Many folks get it wrong and end up living with it. The rig should sit level when ready for travel. The connection system should be more than what you need (marginal is not acceptable). Many vehicles benefit from the switch to a better tire. A tire upgrade can improve stopping distances and stability. I switched our vehicle's brake pads to Hawk HPS. Our vehicle does the 60 to 0 panic stop in less than 120'. Trailer brakes too have to be in good shape and adjusted correctly.

This is just a short list of many items.

PS... We had our combo set up by towing professionals. Going down this road we optimized our car's towing potential and got the set up done right the 1st time without the "trial and error method" many folks find themselves into.
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