Subaru Power - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-18-2014, 01:50 AM   #29
hos
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I know it's a tough subject and everyone has great intentions. I personally need a small RV to call "home" with livestock grazing land I've rented. I don't plan on moving the rv often but when I do, it will be on flatland and during the morning hours. I'll get the transmission cooler, etc and go from there. Thanks all and I'll check back. Craig


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Originally Posted by Mike Magee View Post
Since hos says his manual states 2000 lbs, I think we can trust the accuracy of that. No need to debate the tow capacity.

Just about any 13' egg (Scamp, Casita, Boler, Trillium, etc.) should work, provided the hitch weight is kept between roughly 150 and 200 lbs. Simply use a bathroom scale to check it, and redistribute cargo if needed.
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Old 05-18-2014, 06:38 AM   #30
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Thnxs for checking in Craig and giving us some feedback.

The usual thing here. Well meaning folks get hung up on personal nits (weight and Tow Ratings's) and there are so many other important items to talk about with your future potential towing experience.

The tranny cooler is a wise decision and for the low cost all goodness.

Once you decide on trailer (ideally one with electric brakes and aerodynamics) you will need a connection system (hitch, brake controller, possible mirrors). Many options here to talk about. Some work better than others so post again when you get to that point in the process.
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Old 05-19-2014, 12:11 PM   #31
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Subaru Power

Thanks so much. So, assuming that I am talking about a car that is towing a trailer that is near the car's towing capacity, what are some best practices to squeeze every towing pound out of the car/small truck/ etc.? Thanks again. Edit: Probably a scamp, casita.... Need to look into others. I do have a 2 inch ball hitch. It is bolted to the undercarriage.
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Old 05-19-2014, 12:20 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Miller View Post

NOW: Tell us what the manual for YOUR Subaru sez; for both towing and tongue weights, and you will get lots of help.

Yes, it can tow.
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Old 05-19-2014, 12:31 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by hos View Post
Thanks so much. So, assuming that I am talking about a car that is towing a trailer that is near the car's towing capacity, what are some best practices to squeeze every towing pound out of the car/small truck/ etc.? Thanks again. Edit: Probably a scamp, casita.... Need to look into others. I do have a 2 inch ball hitch. It is bolted to the undercarriage.
Depends. lots of people here have experience with towing with various makes, models and years of vehicles and what one needs to do in regards to adding or changing equipment etc to make for a more comfortable and stable tow depends greatly on what year and model vehicle you are talking about. Each model year is different in regards to what the vehicle has come equipped with - i.e. large or small transmission cooler, rear suspension (some might drop in rear), Class I or class II hitch?.... without more details on what year and model of Outback you have its anyones guess as to what you can do to improve the tow....
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Old 05-19-2014, 12:33 PM   #34
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1st you need to define what you have for a hitch. A simple bracket with a ball bolted to it will usually NOT support the maximum load the vehicle is rated to pull/carry.

What you usually should have is a receiver type hitch with either a 1.25" or a 2" drawbar. That usually indicates a class 2 or 3 hitch. Hitches are usually stamped or labeled with maximum limits.

There are any number of after-market hitches out there but, keep in mind, that although the hitch might be rated for, say, 3000 lbs., that rating is for the hitch assy only, and has no bearing on the vehicles towing limits, they do not change, no matter what Joe, the local trailer hitch expert, tells you.

Other items to be aware of are your tires, are they in excellent condition and inflated to the maximum pressure shown on the side wall. Shock absorbers and stuts, most seem to get a bit flaky above 75-80,000 miles when you add a trailer (others will disagree with that, but it a good thing to verify ???)

You have to have a trailer brake controller installed, that's a must have at maximum weight.

Always try to tow at minimum weight, no water in the tanks and the trailer is not a freight hauler.

First time out get your trailer weighed at a truck stop or other weigh station, you will be surprised how heavy it got.... And have at least a bathroom scale on hand to verify actual tongue weight every time you hook up

And yes, some of us are a real PITA* when it comes to observing manufacturers weight limits, but others seem to see overloading a vehicle to what ever extremes possible as a sort of competitive sport.

*PITA = "Provider of Inconvenient Trailering Advice"
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Old 05-19-2014, 12:40 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hos View Post
Thanks so much. So, assuming that I am talking about a car that is towing a trailer that is near the car's towing capacity, what are some best practices to squeeze every towing pound out of the car/small truck/ etc.? Thanks again. Edit: Probably a scamp, casita.... Need to look into others. I do have a 2 inch ball hitch. It is bolted to the undercarriage.
Out of the box many vehicles make lousy tow vehicles and many of them have high tow ratings. Doesn't make any sense. There is a lot of info out there if you know where to look on how to optimize your vehicle to get the most out of it.

Set up with the right equipment is a biggy. Many folks get it wrong and end up living with it. The rig should sit level when ready for travel. The connection system should be more than what you need (marginal is not acceptable). Many vehicles benefit from the switch to a better tire. A tire upgrade can improve stopping distances and stability. I switched our vehicle's brake pads to Hawk HPS. Our vehicle does the 60 to 0 panic stop in less than 120'. Trailer brakes too have to be in good shape and adjusted correctly.

This is just a short list of many items.

PS... We had our combo set up by towing professionals. Going down this road we optimized our car's towing potential and got the set up done right the 1st time without the "trial and error method" many folks find themselves into.
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