1st you need to define what you have for a hitch. A simple bracket with a ball bolted to it will usually NOT support the maximum load the vehicle is rated to pull/carry.
What you usually should have is a receiver type hitch with either a 1.25" or a 2" drawbar. That usually indicates a class 2 or 3 hitch. Hitches are usually stamped or labeled with maximum limits.
There are any number of after-market hitches out there but, keep in mind, that although the hitch might be rated for, say, 3000 lbs., that rating is for the hitch assy only, and has no bearing on the vehicles towing limits, they do not change, no matter what Joe, the local trailer hitch expert, tells you.
Other items to be aware of are your tires
, are they in excellent condition and inflated to the maximum pressure shown on the side wall. Shock absorbers and stuts, most seem to get a bit flaky above 75-80,000 miles when you add a trailer (others will disagree with that, but it a good thing to verify ???)
You have to have a trailer brake controller installed, that's a must have at maximum weight
Always try to tow at minimum weight
, no water in the tanks and the trailer is not a freight hauler.
First time out get your trailer weighed at a truck stop or other weigh station, you will be surprised how heavy it got.... And have at least a bathroom scale on hand to verify actual tongue weight every time you hook up
And yes, some of us are a real PITA* when it comes to observing manufacturers weight limits, but others seem to see overloading a vehicle to what ever extremes possible as a sort of competitive sport.
*PITA = "Provider of Inconvenient Trailering Advice"