Sway disaster... - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-21-2015, 08:19 AM   #29
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To be able to pass 2 vehicles. Speed and tongue weight were the most likely reasons for the loss of controll.


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Old 04-21-2015, 09:44 AM   #30
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An interesting not about trailer and car stabilization is that since 2006 in Europe electronic stabilization has been required for trailer towing cars. My VW when the O.E.M. wiring kit and module is used for the trailer lights automatically detects the trailer and turns on what VW calls T-ESP and also modifies the fueling, cooling and braking control CPUs for the mode.
Here is a link to one discussion:
http://www.fyldecoasttowing.co.uk/do...it%20works.pdf



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Old 04-21-2015, 10:07 AM   #31
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So what I'm gathering is that I need to put brakes on my 1975 trillium 1300? I want to be safe while towing. I have a 2008 Ford Escape. Is this something I can do myself or should I take it into an RV shop?


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Old 04-21-2015, 12:05 PM   #32
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Lyndsay.... suggest you start a new thread with your question about how to install brakes. Thinking you will get many more views and suggestions.

Good luck with the project. Adding brakes really is a good idea.
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Old 04-21-2015, 12:07 PM   #33
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Lyndsay.... suggest you start a new thread with your question about how to install brakes. Thinking you will get many more views and suggestions.



Good luck with the project. Adding brakes really is a good idea.

Thanks I will


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Old 04-21-2015, 12:59 PM   #34
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I question blanket statements when discussing TV/trailer connections.

I am aware of many fiberglass TV/fiberglass combinations that are using a WDH and the owners are reaping the benefits.

This Reese 350 mini for example is made for smaller trailers like many glass eggs.

Reese - 350 Mini WD



Yes but some vintage, smaller Airstreams are as light as 2,000lbs and use a WDH. Some glass trailers like the dual axle Bigfoots are well over 5,000lbs and use a WDH. Every combo is different and needs to be treated appropriately.

I would suggest that you check with Dexter and their 2200 lb axle, (the axle that's on most 13' trailers). Also check with the trailer manufacturer about the extra stresses on the frame.
Now look at physics of what a wdh hitch does with regard to stresses. I can see one for tongue weights over 300 lbs, but not below.
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Old 04-21-2015, 02:12 PM   #35
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With regard to the WDH and smaller cars and trailers the NTIS study (DOT) from 1979 indicates that airlift style load levelers give much the same benefit of the weight distributing hitch without the added stress to the chassis of either trailer ot TV.
You can find the studies here: EDC Library - Technical Reference listed under articles 1081,2,3,&4.
They have very interesting studies of small front wheel drive cars like at the time Citations and Horizons. Both pretty miserable cars by today's standards.
My own opinion is a car that handles poorly without a trailer does not get any better with one!
My experience with my VW has shown me that it handles well with and without the trailer and has pretty "deadbeat" stability while towing. That means that if you are driving steady state and induce a deviation with the steering wheel any oscillations are quickly damped out if any exists in the first place.
Front wheel drive cars were pretty well received by the scientists who performed the test. They also were pretty high on the airbags to level the car.
I plan to install air lifts on the rear of my Jetta Sportwagen to level the car if for no other reason than to the get the headlights in the correct alignment.
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Old 04-21-2015, 02:35 PM   #36
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Towing a tent trailer up a gravel incline with my front-wheel-drive Subaru, I came to a complete stop and had to back down to take another run at it. That was because there was not enough weight on the drive wheels. Air bags would do nothing to alleviate that problem.
As far as vehicle manufacturers saying not to use WDH, there are levels of such "warnings". In my Toyota manual it says "Toyota does not recommend". It doesn't NOT to, and the sentence is in black and white ( just like the instructions on how to operate the radio ). Warnings and advisories are on a yellow field and if really important, have an exclamation symbol. There is a difference.
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Old 04-21-2015, 03:05 PM   #37
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Towing a tent trailer up a gravel incline with my front-wheel-drive Subaru, I came to a complete stop and had to back down to take another run at it. That was because there was not enough weight on the drive wheels. Air bags would do nothing to alleviate that problem.
As far as vehicle manufacturers saying not to use WDH, there are levels of such "warnings". In my Toyota manual it says "Toyota does not recommend". It doesn't NOT to, and the sentence is in black and white ( just like the instructions on how to operate the radio ). Warnings and advisories are on a yellow field and if really important, have an exclamation symbol. There is a difference.
I thought all SUbarus had front wheel drive..is that not true?
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Old 04-21-2015, 03:46 PM   #38
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Beats me. Some are AWD I think. I pointed out that it was front wheel drive because having the front wheels unweighted affects traction, and air bags don't redistribute weight. They just keep the headlights from pointing at the sky.
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Old 04-21-2015, 04:19 PM   #39
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It's been quite a few years since any Subaru was front-only drive. Now they're all AWD and, at need, can send up to 90% of torque to the rear wheels. Note that some light-duty AWD set-ups (like that on our Honda CRV) can only send 50% to the rear.
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Old 04-21-2015, 04:41 PM   #40
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Mine was a 1987 GL Wagon. There was a lever to engage four-wheel-drive, but if you did that the car would stall if you tried to turn a corner in dry conditions. Then you had to back up ten feet ( in a straight line ) to disengage 4X4. Using 4X4 was a bit like playing chess. You had to think ahead a few moves.
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Old 04-21-2015, 05:51 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by redbarron55 View Post

This why I am installing the entire package in my Jetta Sportwagen TDI and the reason this car is rated to tow 1800 KG in the rest of the world.

.

Yes the Europeans do have a leading edge on NA when it comes to safety features including a couple of others that contribute greatly to why a vehicle sold here will have very different manufactures stated towing capacity to a similar car in Europe.

One is the fact they have country wide tow speed restrictions - yup even on the infamous Autobahn the towing speed is restricted to 50 mph. Having lower speed limits helps a lot in allowing smaller vehicles to pull more weight and keep all wheels of the tug and trailer firmly on the road way.

The European hitch is very different in design (many would argue a far better design) and has different attachment points to the NA style hitch. The big safety feature the European hitch has is that it has stamped right on it whatever the vehicle manufactures stated towing capacity is for the car it is attached to and was designed to be used on - no more no less.

In Europe they have none of this Class i, II, III iV etc system we have where anyone with a car can going out and put any size capacity hitch on it, regardless of the car manufactures stated towing capacity.

In Europe the police can and will look at the act the actual towing capacity as stated by the manufacture of vehicle you are pulling a trailer with and check the stated weights on the hitch and the weight decals on the trailer to make sure your not towing anything over the car manufactures stated capacity.

Its unfortunate we can not use the European hitch type here, as due to a NA safety requirement the rear of the cars sold here are different from their European counter parts. To install a European style hitch on a NA purchased car one would have to hack out of the back end some of those NA required safety features.
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Old 04-21-2015, 05:58 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carol H View Post
- no more no less.
Wow! No less? Must need ballast to get to the correct weight.
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