Towing with a Jeep CJ, YJ, TJ, LC FJ-40, LR SIII 80? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 02-17-2007, 06:21 PM   #15
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forgot..... how about equilizer hitch / anti sway, etc.?
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Old 02-17-2007, 09:24 PM   #16
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[b]Jamie and Ted,

Do either of you have brakes on your trailer? I think I will opt for them if and when I ever get one of these little trailers.

[b]Ted, how do you like your '07??

Thanks, Jack
Jack,

We use a standard class III receiver hitch. No brakes, no sway bar. I don't drive it carelessly. I have had to hit the brakes hard a couple times and you can feel a little push. In no way did it overpower the Jeep. I have never been uncomfortable pulling with it.

We love the 07 Wrangler. It feels much bigger than the 99 Wrangler. It has the feel of a larger SUV. Very smooth ride. Everywhere we go people ask me about it. It really has a different look. I think Jeep has a winner on this one. When we drove it to Florida pulling the Scamp we got an average of about 16mpg on the interstate. I was pulling at around 70MPH.

Ted
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Old 02-17-2007, 10:22 PM   #17
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Thanks Ted!

Ummm..... glad you like the '07.... Personally I haven't adapted to them yet! I guess I'm still stuck in the "old days" ... in fact would love to have another CJ2A or maybe even an MB.... but then neither of those are very practical or even "survivable" with todays traffic.....

Thanks againk, Jack
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Old 02-18-2007, 12:22 AM   #18
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The '07 Wrangler Unlimited (JK series, not the earlier TJ series) has a 116" wheelbase - so much longer that it is well out of the very short wheelbase class which Roger was asking about, and almost at the other extreme of SUVs.

The difference from short Jeeps experienced by Ted, and by Jack with the earlier TJ-series Unlimited, does seem quite relevant.
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Old 02-18-2007, 11:25 AM   #19
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For about a year the primary TV for our 02 S16 Scamp was my 2K jeep wrangler - 4.0L w/5spd manual. I'd changed out the springs and shocks for OME HD versions, tires were BFG 11.50 x 32 KMs on 10" rims, brakes pads were ceramic and all sorts of off-road gear (winch, lockers, aftermarket front and rear bumpers, etc.) installed.

Not an ideal package but it works if you pay attention to what was going on around you. Gas mileage is horrible, 10-11 mpg, but then I only get 12 w/o the Scamp. After adding the EU3000 to the tongue, it was just too much weight for the trailer hitch I'd fabricated. We still use it (minus the genset) for weekends on the OBX - love driving on the beach with the top down but the Tacoma is a much better vehicle for towing.

Al
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Old 02-18-2007, 11:43 AM   #20
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....Gas mileage is horrible

Lol, "Jeep and Gas mileage" don't go together! I only get ~12 with the bone stock Rubicon.... although I did get ~19 on a 200 mile road trip once.... (probably made a math error!)

Jack
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Old 02-18-2007, 11:21 PM   #21
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Yo, my tow is a 2001 Wrangler, 6 cyl, auto, no elec brakes, class II hitch without equalizer. The jeep has a hardtop which adds additional weight. So far no problems, however, if I'm doing a lot of hiway driving or mountain driving I tow with my 92 Chev Silverado PU so I have the additional passing power when I want it also can keep up with regular traffic on mountain roads. I've had the jeep for years and the Burro not so long, but as the man said "You go to war with the army you have."
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Old 02-19-2007, 06:20 PM   #22
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Our main tow is an 83 Jimmy full size with a 6.2 l diesel. Before acquiring our Scamp we towed a 26ft Avion. With a standard weight distributing hitch, it was a swaying disaster.

However I really liked the short wheel base for getting into and out of tight places, so I set out to get the swaying problem straightened out (pun intended).

Two changes corrected this. 1) Tow-Rite hitch. 2) Changing the tires on the trailer from size LR 78-15 (roughly equivalent to modern P235-75-15) to 11 X 15 load range C Goodyear Wranglers (no modern equivalent to my knowledge) on 9 inch wide rims.

With the Tow-Rite hitch this setup is kind of a Hoot in a parking lot or tight maneuvering situation. The Jimmy has a very tight turning radius in any event, and the Avion would just follow it right around. The Scamp is even better.

Because of this set up we enjoy many sites that are available only to tent campers and sometimes only to those who arrive in 4 WD!

The other side of the coin is a fairly choppy ride and steeper driveline angles. The result is a little more problem with U-joint failure.

The Jimmy is getting more than a bit shabby, but until I can find a new replacement, I'll just keep fixing things as they go out!

Loren
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Old 02-19-2007, 06:32 PM   #23
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I have a girly Jeep, an 06 Liberty.

It has a 5k tow rating, which seems astounding to me, but it's true.

I towed the 13 with it a few times, and I don't know it's there.

With the one time I towed the 17 (Home) I knew it was there, but it was less of an impact than what the Element and 13 had.

I have an extended draw bar, which allows me to get past the spare tire, AND gives me a 90 degree back up turn angle. Kind like a 5th wheel.

We'll see how that lasts once I get the weight distribution hitch. I am sure the shank is not extended.
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Old 02-19-2007, 07:41 PM   #24
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Loren, you mean an Pulliam PullRite (not Tow-Rite), correct?

A PullRite moves the effective hitch point closer to the rear axle, improving the overhang-to-wheelbase ratio for improved control; however, I have to think there would be problems mounting this on a typical traditional Jeep - they are really only intended to fit pickup trucks, and SUVs or vans with similar chassis.

The new Toyota FJ Cruiser looks to me like a possibility for this type of hitch as well, since it looks like they couldn't fit the spare under the back and just left the space empty! Neither the FJ nor any Jeep are actually in the PullRite fit list.
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Old 02-22-2007, 09:25 AM   #25
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Moderator's note: The two posts above were moved from "Show Us Your Rigs." This gives this topic more exposure, and also helps keep "Show Us" chiefly a place to see each others' trailers and tow vehicles (rigs).
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Old 02-22-2007, 01:57 PM   #26
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Mary,

When I saw this (just now) it kind of startled me...... .... Then I noticed that it had just been moved.... whew.
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Old 02-22-2007, 04:46 PM   #27
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Jack, Sorry 'bout that. I thought it deserved to come out of the Rigs topic, so I made it its own thread. But, then another of our staff thought it might as well be merged here, to keep the discussing all in one place. I didn't realize (because I wasn't paying attention) that the merge would invalidate my "the previous two posts" statement... I'll have to try to edit that so it makes more sense. (Might just delete it, now that you know what happened to your post.)
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Old 02-22-2007, 07:16 PM   #28
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You guys are bringing up experiences of starting and stopping, which are really not wheelbase issues.

Where wheelbase is really going to come into play is when the trailer starts to put lateral or side to side pressure on the hitch ball. That kind of condition is going to happen when stopping in a curve, in a highway sway condition from a passing truck, a sway condition from a rough road compounded by speed or a sway condition occurring because the trailer slid out on ice, water, gravel or a bank that wasn't correct for the speed.

It will also occur to a lesser extent in the up/down plane on a rough road, making the front (steering) axle light, then heavy.

The ball-to-trailer axle plus the ball-to-TV axle are the levers that the trailer has to initiate that push, and the wheelbase forms the lever that the TV has to resist that push. Tongue weight will also have an effect, plus the various tire sidewall stiffnesses.

What I would do if I were towing with a short wheelbase like a classic Jeep or an old Geo Tracker (seen that in BC!), is:

1. Put LT tires on the TV, if I could find them, to increase stiffness.

2. Get the hitch ball as close as possible to the TV rear axle by where the receiver is installed and how short the ball mount can be, so as to shorten that lever.

3. Move as much weight to the front of the TV as possible, like tools, HiLift Jack, spare tire, etc., to get the front end heavy to resist side push.

4. Move trailer weight off its rear to decrease "swing" weight, without increasing TW too much. Maybe carry trailer spare underneath near axle or something innovative like that.

5. Lengthen the trailer tongue to increase that lever so it works against side push (BTW, this is also a solution for a bike rack, which is where I saw the first one -- Relatively easy to put a T extension underneath the existing frame with a coupler on its foot).
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