Trillium 4500 in Michigan Journal - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-01-2017, 08:24 AM   #15
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another update

Just examined the right brake again.

Now unable to locate the grease seal stretchy band (seems to have disappeared in the mass of grease, etc) so I will have the remove the grease seal to find it. Not concerned about this. Its a distraction.

Examined the magnet closely. The retainer clip is in place and intact. However I did notice that when I slide the magnet in and out on its mount, it sticks a bit, so I did this about 100 times to get rid of the stickiness, also moved the magnet left to right to move the shoes in and out. Seemed to work fine. How about using a lubricant on the brake mechanisms (not the braking surfaces)? Can anyone recommend a brake lubricant for this type of brake (electric drum)?
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Old 10-01-2017, 08:45 AM   #16
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I've lubricated the adjuster with grease. I've used antiseize on the clips that hold the shoes. Push the brake shoe to expose the inside of the clip and apply with a q tip. Obviously, you don't want to get any on the shoes or the drum
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Old 10-01-2017, 08:54 AM   #17
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Raz, what about the retaining clip function compels you to use anti seize compound? Does the retaining clip have to be able to move freely to allow the magnet to slide without sticking?
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Old 10-01-2017, 09:11 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by John in Michigan View Post
Raz, what about the retaining clip function compels you to use anti seize compound? Does the retaining clip have to be able to move freely to allow the magnet to slide without sticking?
The clips that hold the shoes, not the magnet. They are fixed to the backing plate and hold the shoes while allowing them to slide back and forth.

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Old 03-08-2018, 04:55 PM   #19
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update on the right brake heating up

As the weather improves, I am back to troubleshooting the right brake heating up. Here's the status:

- I removed the right drum-hub, removed the old inner seal, DW (good eyes) found the spring band lodged in the edge of the inner bearing!
- I installed a new inner seal
- I replaced old brake controller with a Prodigy 3 controller.

I road tested the new setup with DW. Took the rig onto a dirt road and used the Prodigy 3 to manually activate trailer brakes numerous times at idle speed while DW observed right and left trailer wheel action. DW's observation was that the right brake grabs while the left brake does not. ALSO, importantly, after doing this (using the Prodigy 3 to manually brake many times the right brake is warm and the left brake is cold. This road test revealed that problem could very well be in the LEFT brake.

Then back home, verified that the two brake magnets are drawing correct amperage. To do this, used the Prodigy 3 in diagnostic mode (with power setting) to measure the current draw when moving the manual brake lever all the way to the right. The reading I observed was:

6.4 AMPS AT 13 VOLTS

Checking Dexter's specifications, 6.4 amps is within the expected range for a 2-brake, single axle system.

Based on the above results, I believe the next steps are:

- check, clean and lube both brakes, with special attention to the LEFT brake
- re-adjust the manual adjusters making sure that the LEFT brake is tight enough
- repeat road test

Oh well. Sigh. Making progress!

-John
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Old 03-09-2018, 06:51 PM   #20
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When I have had a problem like that, I took it in and the shop replaced the magnet. It fixed the problem.
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Old 03-20-2018, 04:54 PM   #21
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Ok, I pulled the left drum off and inspected the brake. Didn't take long and I noticed a serious problem: The magnet hanging loose and on further inspection I determined that the magnet retaining clip is broken, i.e., it is not holding the magnet in position. So I will replace the retaining clip, finish inspecting both brakes, adjust both brakes, and then re-test.

Any idea where to buy just the retaining clips (Dexter 046-121 retaining clip)? Etrailer doesn't seem to have them although they have retaining clips suited for other brakes sizes, brands, etc.

Other online shops have the Dexter 046-121. Its a $1.25 part, but with shipping and the other parts you have to buy with it, and shipping, winds up costing at least $20.
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Old 03-23-2018, 04:55 PM   #22
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Found replacement magnet retaining clips, replaced retaining clip and re-assembled LEFT brake assembly after cleaning and lubing. Readjusted left and right manual brake adjustments. Now ready to repeat road test. Here are photos of LEFT brake broken and new clip, magnet, etc.
Attached Thumbnails
magnet a.jpg   magnet clip a.jpg  

magnet clip b.jpg   brake a.jpg  

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Old 03-25-2018, 09:10 PM   #23
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road testing after replacing left magnet clip

Cool but sunny and dry today, so rolled the camper out of the garage. Took off the 8" wheels/tires (which allow the camper to fit in the garage) and put on the 13" wheels/tires, and re-installed the vent dome (again, too tall for the garage).

Drove to a local parkway with gravel parking lot and re-tested the brakes by repeatedly braking. This time the results were better. The right wheel no longer lurches when braking, indicating that the left wheel brake is functioning. Both wheels click when engaging and when releasing the brakes. The left brake is now getting slightly warm, while during the previous road test it remained cold. The right brake is still getting very warm.

I'm not concerned that the right brake is getting very warm. I have brake controller (Prodigy 3) power turned to 14. Also, engaged the brakes several dozen times during testing.

Tomorrow I will tighten the left brake and loosen the right brake to attempt to equalize braking power. Also may try to repeat the common procedure of tightening both sides all the way down, then backing off 10 clicks. The left brake had not been operating correctly since new last year, thus it needs to be broken in. This may also explain the difference between left and right braking strength.

After doing the above brake adjustments, we will take the camper for an extended road test, also tomorrow. In a couple of weeks, we are hoping to travel with the camper.

At this point, I believe the problem is solved and just fine adjustments are needed. Thanks to everyone for your support!
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Old 03-26-2018, 06:39 AM   #24
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lots of work

good job john complicated some!

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Old 04-14-2018, 11:39 AM   #25
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Check that the shoes are installed properly.
On the front(leading) shoe the friction material is shorter than the rear (trailing) shoe
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Old 04-14-2018, 02:28 PM   #26
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Thanks Rick. Just pulled the wheels yesterday to check condition of brakes. Will double check this next time I pull off the wheels.

I did replace the broken magnet clip on the left brake and the new clip is holding well. Now the left and right brake temperatures are much more similar after towing 1000 miles.
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Old 05-04-2018, 02:02 PM   #27
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trip summary and brake status

Just returned from a 2 1/2 week vacation. Stops were:

- Levi Jackson SP in KY, 1 night
- Lake Powhatan Campground at Pisgah National Forest, 2 nights
- Skidaway Island SP in Savannah GA, 5 nights
- Huntington Beach SP south of Myrtle Beach SC, 6 nights
- Lake Powhatan Campground at Pisgah National Forest, 2 nights
- Big Bone Lick SP in KY, 1 night

We really enjoyed all of our stays. All were clean, well maintained facilities. Lake Powhatan Campground is a hilly and forested with large sites, and a short drive to a NC arboretum and Biltmore Estate. Skidaway Island SP is wooded with large sites, located near salt marshes, and a short drive to historic Savannah and beaches. Huntington Beach SP in SC is on a vast pristine ocean beach and is next to Brookgreen Gardens, a vast garden with thousands of sculptures throughout. Big Bone Lick State Park is the site of a salt spring, and large bones of animals dating back thousands of years. An enjoyable vacation from beginning to end.

Throughout the trip, we checked to brake drum and hub temperature at every stop. We found temperatures between left and right side much more close to the same, and are no longer concerned with this.

John
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Old 05-04-2018, 02:09 PM   #28
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trip follow up - maintenance

During our trip south, we did notice some water leaks during two heavy down pours (1+ inch rainstorms). As a result we've decided to remove, grind and fill our Trillium 4500 belly band! We have already removed the belly band AND the rear window, and are now in the process of grinding/removing rusty plates, also, cleaning and polishing the rear window. We have also removed the wood backer behind the belly band directly below the rear window. It was wet ...

We've been re-reading Trillium belly band threads to help guide us through the process.

Also during the trip, we updated our project list (things to fix, replace, etc).
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