Trillium 4500 in Michigan Journal - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-10-2017, 10:38 AM   #1
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Trailer: 1978 Trillium 4500
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Trillium 4500 in Michigan Journal

Hi Everyone!

I am John in Michigan and my wife is Lisa in Michigan . I'm starting this thread to post the latest updates on our 1978 Trillium 4500 that we bought 2 years ago this month.

As background, our first FGRV was a 1974 Boler 13 acquired 4(?) years ago that we sold to another member last year. The Trillium 4500 is our 2nd FGRV, and our 3rd (yes 3rd!!) FGRV purchased last year and still not ready for prime time is a 1979 Boler 17.

Anyway the Trillium 4500 as bought was a "fixer upper" and so far we've made many repairs and upgrades that are posted in my registry.

More posts to follow!

-John
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Old 08-10-2017, 10:56 AM   #2
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question about new brakes...

This Spring we had the axle and brakes replaced, and then in July we towed the Trillium to the Michigan UP for a one week vacation. Upon checking the wheel hub temperature at one of our stops, DW noticed the curbside hub was hot. We had been checking on a regular basis, and this was the first we had noticed this. My first thought was that the EZlube bearing hadn't been adequately greased, so we added grease. 100 miles down the road, I noticed it was still hot AND noticed that the brake drum was even hotter! I concluded that the very hot brake drum was causing the bearing to be hot. I guessed the brake shoes were dragging (too tight) even though when I jacked up the camper and spun the wheels before leaving on vacation, they spun freely with only very slight drag. So I loosened the brake shoes in a rest area... Checked the curbside brake temp two more times on the way home. 1st time it was cool. 2nd time it was "very warm".

QUESTION: Is this just a problem with brake adjustment, or is it something else?? Any thoughts, ideas?

-John
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Old 08-10-2017, 03:55 PM   #3
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HOT BRAKE DRUM

See above post re HOT BRAKE DRUM. Any suggestions?
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Old 08-11-2017, 02:54 PM   #4
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Trailer: 2008 17 ft Casita Spirit Deluxe/'78 Trillium 1300
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We had a similar problem. After lots of hullabaloo, head scratching, and great minds coming together, it turned out to be an issue with the race--or lack thereof-- on the wheel (drum?). Long story...��
Edited to add: He called it the "inside bearing race"
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Old 08-16-2017, 08:14 PM   #5
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Trailer: 1978 Trillium 4500
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Adjusting the new Dexter 7" electric brakes

Rather than trying to figure out why one brake drum overheats and the other doesn't, I decided to first test/adjust the new Dexter 7" electric brakes:

1. Adjust star wheels on both brakes to 10 clicks in from "frozen brake" setting
2. Plug camper 7pin plug into tow vehicle and turn tow vehicle accessory power on and brake controller
3. Jack up camper curbside to check whether brake engages (by turning wheel by hand) while 2nd person presses brake controller manual override slider switch
4. Repeat for camper roadside wheel

I completed the above test yesterday, and discovered I didn't have the amps turned up NEARLY high enough on the brake controller. As a result, the brakes were not holding. After checking recommended brake controller amp setting online (should be 6 amps), I adjusted the brake controller, re-tested and the brakes locked as they should (with the brake star wheels set at 10 clicks and no wheel drag/free spinning).

The next step is to road test the brakes to make fine adjustments to the brake controller. With that done, we'll need to just keep monitoring brake drum and bearing temp while towing...
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