Wanting to paint my scamp yellow so it resembles the lemon that it is - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-14-2013, 10:30 AM   #15
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Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 77 Scamp 13
Michigan
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Originally Posted by Hman66 View Post
Roger...what's your experience on the sewer hose tube in the front. My 13 ft is being built soon and they say they will only mount it on the front above the battery. Donna D has been a good source of info and she stated to not have them drill holes in the trailer and mount it else ware. My question is where? They said it would not fit under the tongue, nor the back bumper...I did get the bike hitch. Also, they said it will hold a 20ft hose but I believe I only get a 10ft one. Is this long enough? Will I need any kind of coupler when I actually use it? Thanks...H
I have a 1977 Scamp - no bathroom or holding tank. I would defer to Donna D on good vs bad locations and just add any hole can leak, and when going down the road the front of trailer is running into the rain at 55 mph so probably not ideal place to drill holes for mounting tube. Appearance might also be a factor for some.

I would post the question of "Where should I mount the stinky slinky tube" and see where people have put them.

On the hose length, I have in the past had a self contained RV and 10 ft is pretty short. You might want to go with something like 15 ft, packing a 20 ft hose into a tube just big enough for 20 ft might be a little tight. 10 ft would mean needing to get pretty close to the dump drain.

Yes there is a coupler on the hose at one end and a ring at the other. Since this seems new to you I'l outline the basics.

You place the coupler on one end of the hose over the drain tube on your trailer holding tank, it twist locks on. The end of the hose with the ring or plug end you place in the campground sewer dump pipe. Then you pull a handle on your sewage tank that opens a valve and allows the sewage to flow through the hose and down into the campground sewer pipe.

You then typically run some water through the toilet to rinse the tank down the pipe. Push handle to close valve, disconnect hose and put it on the gray water tank to repeat the process. You do the toilet holding tank (black water) first, and the sink shower (grey water) second so that draining the second tank rinses the sewage out of the hose.

There is typically a rinse hose to flush out your hose before putting it away. Rubber gloves and hand sanitizer are your friends for this job and I'm pretty sure you understand why it's called a stinky slinky.

It would be really good to get someone to show you how the first time or two. It's not hard but it helps to have some experienced support.
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Old 08-14-2013, 03:12 PM   #16
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Name: Adrian
Trailer: Lance 1985~'Casita de Campo' ~23' 4"~Dinette Slide Previously: Scamp 16 ft Side Dinette, Front Bath
New Mexico
Posts: 1,185
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I believe we all expect a new unit would come without defects, but mishaps happen. I've often heard not to buy an auto made on a Friday or on a Monday. Friday, workers are thinking of leaving for weekend, Monday, workers are tired or hungover from the weekend. Not sure if they have a quality control inspections or not. Ours had a lot of 'sawdust' wood & fiberglass still in places in ours. Ours of course was made before the Big Fire. New place to work in now.

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Originally Posted by Adrian W View Post
Wow! We have a 2005 16' Side Dinette & front bath/shower. Got it new in 2005.

Not had those problems. But no crank out windows on ours, different fridge but never problem with the latch (that would be from the manufacturer of the fridge), if the rear stabilizer fell off, I believe they are bolted on. Possible someone didn't tighten it on well enough. Some of the axels were welded on upside down at one time. Things can be done wrong. If the stabilizer didn't fall off, perhaps it failed to work smoothly. They are a simple design & at times can be a little tricky to get to work easily. We had similar ones on a Komfort Lite TT. Not as friendly as a scissor type. I have scissor type on the front of ours. Thinking of replacing the back ones with scissor as well.

We had a DC wire crimped where it entered the Scamp from the battery. I was able to find it & mend it. Started blowing fuses. Campground host suggested to check where it entered the body of the Scamp.

Dinette table in back has always been a bed, never noticed it swelling. The side dinette table has never swollen any with moisture. Swelling table top, one would think would take more than a little moisture in the cabin. I have read of others replacing the table top with solid wood. Could have gotten a faulty top. Something to ask about a replacement.

Never had any complaint about the cabinet doors. Ours are some kind of composite wood, but not cardboard. Much like many of the other makes of stick built RVs. But have had them to open on rough roads. Often because I have too much stuff in the cabinets. We bungee them together through the pulls to keep them closed. Would have liked them to be fiberglass. We painted the inside of the shower door just to keep it more free from water effects when showering. It had never began to swell or deteriorate in anyway. Just wanted to keep moisture from the shower off of it as much as possible.

We chose the green material because it seemed thicker than the other materials in 2005 for the seat & back cushions.. Still holding up, but just the side dinette seats get used. Looks almost new still.

We'd ordered ours sight unseen (never been in a Scamp). But did go by the factory before it was made.

But my son picked it up for us & brought it down to Loveland, CO where we meet them.

If wanting wood cabinet doors (& cabinets) one would have to order the Deluxe with wood interiors.

Ours hasn't been perfect, but no great disappointment. I would have liked a wider rear bed & at least 14" tires & wheels...15" would be even better.

Haven't broken any rivets, but have had a couple leak when rains hard. Rear Side Window by bed leaked once as well. Had to seal them & tighten screws around the window.

Have had trouble with leaking with the TV antennae a few times. I'd never order one again.

A major frustration we have had was with the inverter (or is it called a converter? Always confuse the two). One went out, we bough a new one (same kind from the supplier). It broke, ordered a motherboard to fix it. Scamp is now using a different inverter I believe. I epoxied the nuts onto the small screws which came loose on the last one. So far so good. But this happen in 2007 & 2008. Still pretty new.

But other RVs (TT & MH) have had problems as well in the past we have owned.

Hope you get the defects worked out. And be able to Enjoy your Rig.

Give them a call, have a list of what has gone wrong with details of what has happened. Photos would be good. Keep calm. Document as much as you can with photos, keep a detailed log of what has not worked or has broken.

If still too frustrating, I'm sure you will be able to sell it for what you have paid, maybe a little extra. Lot of people want one.

Good Luck with solving the frustration.

Post Edit: I have seen others get or make new doors for the cabinets.

Hman: haven't had any problems with the sewer holder on front & still using the original hose. But have a better one since 2006. Can't remember if I bought the connections or if they came with them. It is the 10' one. But never have used it in a campground with sewer hookup. One must get close to the sewer to use it.

With Scamp's the grey water drain is in back & the black water drain is in front. I added a sewer cap on the grey water drain with a garden hose fitting so a hose can be use to drain it without having to use the large according sewer hose. I have used the 'grey' garden hose to drain the grey tank into sewer hookups in campgrounds.

Could the holder be placed on top of the tongue? Or on top of the bumper? Seem it would on the 16'.
Not sure of how much lower a 13' is than a 16', but we have a pair of stabilizer 'jacks' hanging on below the tongue on ours. I also have a spare tired attached on & below the tongue. Seems one could be attached to the front of the back bumper as well.

Photo was taken before the spare tire was added.

Haven't tried, but perhaps a 20' slinky hose would fit into the standard holder. But it isn't real long. One could request to have them leave it off & find a spot for it once you have it. One can fabricate a holder out of PVC pipe to work as well if not better.

Not sure if rain would be hitting directly onto the one in front, the tow vehicle will block much of the direct wind and/or rain from it.

For the fridge latch, you might want to call or email the manufacturer & explain what happened. Photo would be good.

Much like a boat, which is a hole in the water into which one throws money, a RV is a hole into which one keeps throwing in money. But they are so much fun!

I would believe there are a few Airstream TTs owners who have gotten a unit with a few problems to be worked out. Even a few which appeared to be a LEMON.

Might give them a call & also ask them if you could send some photos via email to them. To make sure someone is checking it. However, I sent an inquiry via the email on the site about the type of insulation they use. The owner answered back quickly.

Termination Cap with Hose Connector a must have. IMHO! Got ours at Walmart. If you do not have toilet, therefore no black tank to empty, one would not need a slinky hose at all, just use the hose connector to drain the grey tank. I do not have termination cap with a hose connector on the black tank sewer outlet. Of course it has the termination cap which came with the Scamp.
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Old 08-14-2013, 03:33 PM   #17
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Trailer: Li'l Hauley
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Sometimes, a large number of QC issues can be symptomatic of a morale problem among the workers. They could be unhappy with their pay or with management. Sloppy work is a way of pushing back somewhat passively against whatever's bothering them. I don't know if Scamp has such a problem, but it's a possibility.

Centuries ago, the European mine workers were kept happy by feeding them a steady stream of free beer (in fact, that is about all they were fed, but beer was more full-bodied and nourishing back then). I wonder how that would work out nowadays?
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Old 08-14-2013, 04:30 PM   #18
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Name: Ken
Trailer: 2015 Scamp 16' deluxe 2008 FJ Cruiser
Pennsylvania
Posts: 140
We had one issue with our new 16. The shower drain fell off and you could see the ground thru the drain hole. The chrome floor drain threads were short because the floor was thick. the white plastic drain under the floor had no treads in a high collar that would not reach the threads. I ground off the collar all is well. I do not know how it made it 1050 miles home with out falling off. I also asked for no decals and not to mount the worthless 10ft hose holder. I mounted a 20ft hose holder under the back end myself. One more thing Scamp mounted the thermostat on the side of the stove area where when the bed is made up your feet will hit it and be covered by the blankets. I moved it. Oh we have a sd fb deluxe 16ft.
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Old 08-14-2013, 06:17 PM   #19
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Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 77 Scamp 13
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When you consider that most RV's have essentially all the features of a house, made out of the lighter material and then driven down the road to be bounced around..... Yet typically last for many years.

While an RV might have the features of a house those features often have RV specific quirks. After awhile dealing with them becomes routine, sometimes not until one has a problem or mishap.

For example always, every single time that one uses the fridge making sure the latch is in the open position, forgetting and pulling on the door, or closing the door on it even once will do some damage. It's only as heavy duty as it has to be to do it's job.

Same with things such as window latches and other hardware and things such as plumbing fixtures. They are lighter weight and typically lighter duty than what is found in a home.

Exposing the table to even a small amount of moisture over a period long enough for the wood to soak it up will make it swell. Can be something as simple as leaving a glass of iced beverage to melt where the condensation can get to the edge of the wood. Or a window open a crack when it rains and having water collect between table and wall so that wiping table still leaves water to be soaked up from that gap.

Even the delux wood cabinet doors are probably lighter weight than the same style installed in a house, as are the hinges which means they can not take as much strain.

RV is simply not the same as a house designed to be lived in 365 days a year for decades. Treating it as one will lead to complications. I can provide two examples.

Years ago my sister when washing dishes used to leave the faucet on the entire time to rinse each dish. Same as she would at home. Percieved as water tank being "too small" and the water pump failing "too soon".

A camper with a site rented for the season was having problems with the black water tank, it would not drain and the smell was pretty bad. Since they had sewer hookup they left the trailer hooked up AND the valve always open to drain. With no liquid in tank solid waste just piled up till it blocked the tank. Reasonable to think "hook up to sewer" like at home.

That is not to say that workers don't make mistakes. Forget to tighten bolts or properly assemble shower drains. The ability and willingness of the manufacturer to work to resolve problems and the purchaser to communicate effectively and reasonably with the manufacturer are the keys to positive outcomes.

OP has indicated they will be calling Scamp and I hope they will post how things are resolved. And go on to enjoy many happy years once things are worked out.
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Old 08-14-2013, 08:01 PM   #20
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Name: Ken
Trailer: 2015 Scamp 16' deluxe 2008 FJ Cruiser
Pennsylvania
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The shower drain was the problem on mine. It was assembled correct they just overlooked the fact the floor thickness. It was held on by one thread. Would not go any tighter. It was a fail waiting to happen. No threads on the first 1/4" of the fitting that screws to the floor drain. I worked in a machine shop this would not have made it past the drawings. The thermostat placement what were they thinking. Better yet not thinking? I can fix these things I have built two teardrops and restored a 1976 Scotty. Should I have to its brand new! Do not get me wrong I love it but?
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Old 08-14-2013, 08:35 PM   #21
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Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 77 Scamp 13
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RodgerDat
The shower drain was the problem on mine. It was assembled correct they just overlooked the fact the floor thickness. It was held on by one thread. Would not go any tighter. It was a fail waiting to happen. No threads on the first 1/4" of the fitting that screws to the floor drain. I worked in a machine shop this would not have made it past the drawings. The thermostat placement what were they thinking. Better yet not thinking? I can fix these things I have built two teardrops and restored a 1976 Scotty. Should I have to its brand new! Do not get me wrong I love it but?
Ken
I was using your post on the drain as an example of mistakes that do get made. Maybe it was supposed to be a drain with a long tail with the thicker floor? I once walked past a new hire doing assembly, noticed washers and lock washers being used as if they went in the same place. Guy was so busy trying to be productive he forgot what he had been told about the order. Good worker, rookie mistake. True someone should have been checking his work since he was new.

On the thermostat I say we blame an engineer But yeah I know what you mean someone decided to put it there and did not think it through. Hope you send them a message telling them what you had to do so they don't continue making the same mistake. Not everyone has your skill set so it would be a bigger problem for them.

When it's new you expect it to be "right" so I'm not making excuses for someone elses mistakes, just saying they do happen and when they do it's how they get dealt with that becomes important.

You are actually pretty understanding for someone coming from a field where half the thickness of a human hair is the difference between done right and sloppy work.
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Old 08-14-2013, 08:44 PM   #22
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Name: Norm and Ginny
Trailer: Scamp 16
Florida
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Front sewer hose holder.
We like ours. We use it for a short sewer hose that meets most of our needs. We have a longer holder at the rear of the trailer that is for a longer hose that is sometimes needed.

Rivets.
Our trailer is 22 years old. As far as I can tell they have not been replaced. During our ownership they have never leaked and probably wont becauae we use adhesive to hold the caps on.

Table, cabinet doors and moisture.
None of ours ever swelled except the one in front of the sink and only noticeable after 20 years. We replaced them all with 1/2" birch plywood for appearance sake, easy and inexpensive.
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Old 08-14-2013, 08:48 PM   #23
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Trailer: Li'l Hauley
Oklahoma
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People have been complaining about Scamp's thermostat placement for years and years, haven't they? Yet where is it still located.
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Old 08-14-2013, 08:54 PM   #24
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Name: Byron
Trailer: 2006 Scamp 13' towed with a 2005 Dodge Dakota 4.7l Magnum W/full tow package (over kill)
Oregon
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Originally Posted by Mike Magee View Post
People have been complaining about Scamp's thermostat placement for years and years, haven't they? Yet where is it still located.
I'm wonder where else it could be located. Mine is located (13' Scamp) to the left of the sink on the side of cabinet towards the bed/dinette area.
Located anyplace in front of the furnace it would cycle off too soon. Located too high again it would cycle off too soon. Located too low the furnace would run too long. Located on the end of the kitchen cabinet by the stove, it would run too long. All in all the location is probably about as good as it can be in such a small area.
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Old 08-15-2013, 01:33 AM   #25
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Name: Miranda
Trailer: None
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Scamp Delivery Process

Hey Everyone,

This question is for those of you who purchased your Scamp new. When you went to the Scamp factory in Backous did your salesperson offer or take the time to go over things in your new Scamp? Maybe that salesperson asked if you needed a demonstration on how to deploy the awning or go over other things that may be intimidating to a new owner. Other things that could be shown were items that the customer could have issues with if not used properly or with care such as posted by the OP like the refrigerator latch and the spring loaded poles one could purchase for the fridge. The cranks for the windows or whatever. The point is it benefits the customer and the company.

I realize some of this may be overwhelming and with the excitement of picking up your new trailer it might be all too much too remember which is only natural but at least it was covered and hopefully with an open invitation to call for questions and directed to the owners manual or other resources. Then again there might be seasoned Scamp owners just looking for a newer or larger trailer and don't need the standard walk around.

I'm just curious about their delivery process or if they just do paperwork, give you the tour, take your picture, throw you the keys and wishing you happy trails!

Blake please let us know how it turned out for you. I hope everything gets resolved so you can put all these worries behind you and have fun!
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Old 08-15-2013, 05:41 AM   #26
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Name: Ben and Janie
Trailer: 2013 16foot Scamp tug 2003 Ford Ranger
Kentucky
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When I picked up my Scamp December 28 2012. I was showed how everything worked and my salesman and another employee along with myself and my wife did a walk around checking out the RV my salesman insisted this to be done to detect problems one loose cap was found and corrected when we got home with the Scamp I found a cracked light lens called Scamp a received the replacement in about 2 days in the mail any questions I have had they have been taken care of with one phone call My salesman was Allan. My Scamp is a 16 foot side bath
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Old 08-15-2013, 06:57 AM   #27
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Ben that is good to hear! I didn't know what their processes were or how much time the sales staff had for their delivery/orientation. It's also good about their follow up to immediately correct any issues after you picked up your new trailer. Btw! Congratulations!
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Old 08-15-2013, 09:15 AM   #28
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Oliver is back in production.
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