Welding to a Scamp frame

[Martin B.]

We want to have some brackets welded on the frame of our Scamp. These brackets will support a bicycle rack.

Are there any unusual considerations when welding to the frame?
What qualifications, if any, should I look for in a welder?
Any advice or suggestions?

[floyd]

Originally Posted by Martin B.

We want to have some brackets welded on the frame of our Scamp. These brackets will support a bicycle rack.

Are there any unusual considerations when welding to the frame?
What qualifications, if any, should I look for in a welder?
Any advice or suggestions?

A common MIG welder and average skills are all that are required, (of course a stick welder would work). My bike rack and rear bumper were welded on more than a decade ago and are still good. In fact it would be better to weld your rack to the frame than to drill holes to attach things.
Your frame is simple decent quality carbon steel and so no special weld-relateds are needed.

[Roger H]

Originally Posted by Martin B.

We want to have some brackets welded on the frame of our Scamp. These brackets will support a bicycle rack.

Are there any unusual considerations when welding to the frame?
What qualifications, if any, should I look for in a welder?
Any advice or suggestions?

Have the rear bumper reinforced and then add a 2" square receiver tube. That will allow you many choices in aftermarket, off-the-rack bike racks.

That said, there are many drawbacks to using a rear bike rack on a trailer. A better way to take bikes is to carry them inside the trailer.

[Wayne Collins]

Originally Posted by floyd

A common MIG welder and average skills are all that are required, (of course a stick welder would work). My bike rack and rear bumper were welded on more than a decade ago and are still good. In fact it would be better to weld your rack to the frame than to drill holes to attach things.
Your frame is simple decent quality carbon steel and so no special weld-relateds are needed.

Welding still should be done by a skilled person. A bad weld can cause more damage than drilling holes. But as long as you're not welding on a structural member, it should be OK
Your square receiver tube should weld to a bar or rectangular tubing that will extend forward to catch at least one more frame cross member. The rear bumper is just angle iron, with a thin edge at the bottom.

[Jim in De Pere]

It may not be required but it is best to disconnect the battery when welding on the trailer for safety reasons. Don't want to damage the battery or any of the electronics.

[Darwin Maring]

I think it is required to disconnect the battery. Do more research on that B 4 your weld.

Also, If you R not a really good welder, have a professional do it. The professional will know about the battery, what type of welding rod to use and how to do it without catching your camper on fire. Fire - Yes, it has a wood floor.

[RogerDat]

A professional will also probably not clamp the ground to a location that causes current to arc across the wheel bearings when getting to the weld point. This is good to avoid because this destroys the wheel bearings. Seen it done made for one unhappy customer.


Everyone pretty much agrees any add-on to the rear of any weight or leverage needs to be tied back to the main frame. Getting a professional trailer person to do the welding is a good move.


Bikes on long holder have a lot of leverage, they bounce down but the bar that holds them up converts that into prying force. More of an issue if you have two because the horizontal arm is longer. Compound leverage is good when trying to get stuck bolt loose, not so good on a back bumper.


Also consider how you will adjust your load to maintain proper tongue weight. Weight added to the back of a trailer decreases the tongue weight and you want to try and keep that close to 10% of overall weight. Give or take a bit. Avoids the wiggly trailer effect.

[floyd]

Originally Posted by Wayne Collins

Welding still should be done by a skilled person. A bad weld can cause more damage than drilling holes. But as long as you're not welding on a structural member, it should be OK
Your square receiver tube should weld to a bar or rectangular tubing that will extend forward to catch at least one more frame cross member. The rear bumper is just angle iron, with a thin edge at the bottom.

This ain't rocket science, I did say "Average Skills" and the OP didn't mention the bumper...
If it was about attaching a receiver to the back bumper of a Scamp it is best to actually add an additional frame member and do pretty much as you have said.
If it is on a Scamp13, the rear bumper should be notched to allow for a better angle of departure and a stronger connection.
As you know, my bicycle rack is on the tongue, just where I think it should be.

[RogerDat]

Places that build or repair trailers such as horse trailers, boat, snowmobile or utility trailers are your best bet. Folks that use those may well know a good shop.

Also check for shops that do fabrication, mobile welding can be an indicator of having skill. Portable rig is expensive, field welding work is tougher than shop or bench work. If you can make the portable rig pay it can be a good indicator of a welder with an established reputation for being good enough to come out and fix your broken equipment right in the field.

On welder qualifications - older guy, possibly thinning or gray hair. Might be a little busy and sort of abrupt, could be cranky if you bug him. OR may want to just shoot the breeze about the trailer and how (numerous ways) your job could be done. Both can be an indication of having so much business he either can't waste time because of being busy or can afford to waste time since he has more work than he can possibly do anyway.

[Donna D.]

Humm, maybe buy a receiver hitch designed and manufactured for your trailer? AND, it's a bolt on! Scamp Hitch Receiver