Will you Level with me? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


View Poll Results: Will you Level with me?
No, I use a separate step stool. 14 34.15%
No, The trailer is low enough to step right in. 11 26.83%
Yes, I have a 1-step pull-out step. 13 31.71%
Yes, I have a 2-step pull-out step. 2 4.88%
Yes, I have a 3-step pull-out step. 0 0%
Beam me up, Scotty! 1 2.44%
Voters: 41. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 11-18-2006, 06:50 AM   #15
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Name: Gerry
Trailer: Boler 13 ft / 31 ft Holiday Rambler
Maine
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Quote:
<<< Okay, that would work except those folks that have doors in the backside >>>

Oh, you mean doors in the backside of their trailers, not their long johns !!

If they were (wore) long Johns, thier legs would be long enough to not have to need any steps. Back, curb-sde or driver side .
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Old 11-18-2006, 03:35 PM   #16
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Frederick,
I think your welder is on to something. [b]Does the corner raise when jacked with out appreciably moving the rest of the trailer? IMHO, the "order of the day' would appear to be...fix the corner sag first then re-evaluate the step issue.
Kurt & Ann K.
I have been jacking that corner up with the stabilizer jack until the doorframe returns to square so the door closes properly when camping.

We're planning to jack the frame straight, and sister in a reinforcement alongside the length of the main rail on that side. My rectangular tube frame is less than 1/2 the dimension of what Casita uses.

The welder wants to add a lateral frame under the the door, cantilevered out to the edge of the trailer from the main frame rail. The location of the gray holding tank is presenting a challenge, and is probably the cause of the initial weakness. Since I have been toying with the idea of installing a 2-step pull-out set of steps, I want to incorporate it into the frame design before my welder adds so much steel there that he prevents the steps from ever being installed.
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Old 11-18-2006, 09:28 PM   #17
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Frederick,
it occurred to me that it might be worth while to question your welder about the cost of a completely new, heavier duty frame. Might be cost effective compared with trying to patch and revamp the old one. There's nothing like a nice secure foundation
Kurt & Ann K.
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Old 11-19-2006, 11:22 AM   #18
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Trailer: Boler (B1700RGH) 1979
Alberta
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About the frame fix versus build question...

I agree that a whole new frame would be preferable. It would be lighter for the same strength, and could accommodate exactly the desired features (such as the step support, provisions for storage boxes, tongue length and style, et cetera).

Removing the body from the frame is a substantial job which I have never even seriously considered attempting, and presumably much more difficult than working under the trailer as-is, but doing all of the frame work in place won't be easy, either. It might make more sense to use your own unpaid labour to do a body remove-and-replace, than use an expensive welder/fabricator's time working under the trailer, and compromising the quality of the work.
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Old 11-19-2006, 01:35 PM   #19
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Name: Jerry
Trailer: 2005 Casita
North Carolina
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I have to block up which ever side is lowest, seems about equal to me.

But I would like to know how you secure that wheel after raising it up three blocks high.

Do you just rely on the rear end supports and the secure low wheel on the ground to secure complete trailer

or

do you look for several bricks or tree limbs to try and secure that high tire as well, the store bought wheel wedges or chocks don't fit after raising tire? This can be a real task to complete. I would like to know what others do here--thanks

(I try to secure somehow, I just rest better)
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Old 11-19-2006, 02:07 PM   #20
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[b]But I would like to know how you secure that wheel after raising it up three blocks high.

Do you just rely on the rear end supports and the secure low wheel on the ground to secure complete trailer
My Fiber Stream doesn't have permenently installed stabilizers. [b]I also have dual axles. So I secure two wheels that touch the ground by chocking both; and use 4 stabilizing jacks, one on each corner of the trailer.


Name:   stacking_jacks.JPG
Views: 32
Size:  5.4 KB
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Old 11-19-2006, 02:28 PM   #21
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[quote]My Fiber Stream doesn't have permenently installed stabilizers. [b]I also have dual axles. So I secure two wheels that touch the ground by chocking both; and use 4 stabilizing jacks, one on each corner of the trailer.

Attachment 5547

I'm thinking of replacing 4 of these:


Name:   chock1.jpg
Views: 24
Size:  986 Bytes

...with 2 of these:


Name:   chock2.jpg
Views: 34
Size:  1.4 KB
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Old 11-19-2006, 03:55 PM   #22
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Trailer: Escape 5.0 TA, 2014
Oregon
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[quote]I'm thinking of replacing 4 of these:

Attachment 5548

...with 2 of these:

Attachment 5549


Show off! Most of us would be wedging air
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Old 11-20-2006, 08:46 AM   #23
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Quote:
[b]But I would like to know how you secure that wheel after raising it up three blocks high.
I use the yellow blocks from Camping World and two piecies of 2" X 6" lumber that ar 12" long. First a layer of 5 yellow blocks, then a layer of 4 yellow blocks, and lastly the two pieces of wood. After you center the tire on the blocks there is enough room for the chocks, front and back.

I have only had to do this one time at the Cedar Hill State Park outside of Dallas, TX. We choose the site because of the view. OBTW, I used the tenth yellow block under the street side rear stabilizer.
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Old 11-20-2006, 02:03 PM   #24
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Alberta
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I'm using the ever-popular Lynx leveler blocks; fortunately, there is a matching chock block (the Stop 'N Chock), which fits right on to the leveling blocks, so even the raised tire is chocked on one side. I also use two rear stabilizers, and my tongue jack does not have a wheel, so I'm not worried about it going anywhere.

My rear stabilizers were the aluminum stands which Frederick showed, but I have recently switched to permanently installed units. Like CD Smith, I use the spare Lynx blocks under the stabilizers, and the tongue jack.

If I had dual axles I would use the inter-axle chock which Frederick showed, but since all this does is keep the wheels from turning I think that a much better solution would be a parking brake - that would work even with a single axle, would be easier to use, and would not require storage. Unfortunately, North American trailer manufacturers do not specify the readily available parking feature when they buy brakes - they, or their customers (that's us), are too cheap.
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Old 11-20-2006, 05:32 PM   #25
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Quote:
I think that a much better solution would be a [b]parking brake - that would work even with a single axle, would be easier to use, and would not require storage.

Unfortunately, North American trailer manufacturers do not specify the [b]readily available parking feature when they buy brakes - they, or their customers (that's us), are too cheap.
How is that installed? Can it be done aftermarket?
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Old 11-22-2006, 06:53 PM   #26
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Quote:
How is that installed? Can it be done aftermarket?
The parking brake is an optional feature of the brakes from Dexter (an presumably others); like in a car, I think the bottom pivot for the shoes just has a lever added - you can see it in their parts diagrams, where a washer and a couple of springs are replaced by a mall pivot pin and cam sub-assembly. To change over, perhaps the extra bits could be substituted in, but it would certainly work to replace the backing plate assembly (which comes complete with magnets and shoes, example Dexter part 023-086-00 or 023-087-00 for 10"), so I'm sure that it is possible as a [b]retrofit. The hub / brake drum and the axle's spindle are unchanged.

The parking brakes are run by [b]cables, just like in a car. Unlike European overrun brakes in which the hand lever is part of the coupler assembly, the parking brake cables have nothing to do with the main (electric) brake operation, or with the coupler. I would mount a hand lever on the tongue to run them.

If I new about this when I had my initial mechanical inspection done my Boler, I would have added parking brakes then - now I have nearly new brake assemblies without parking brakes, and it's hard to justify the upgrade at the moment.

If I were buying a new trailer, and the manufacturer did not offer the parking brake (and was not interested in including it), I would ask about getting them to order the axle with the parking hardware, and later installing the cables and hand lever myself.
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Old 11-24-2006, 09:07 PM   #27
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Name: Jerry
Trailer: 2005 Casita
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Thanks Brian for the link to the Lynx-Leveler with a neat chock
I will see if my local Walmart has on retail floor, if not, will order and have shipped to store
I have faced this to many times, looking for something to chock the high side tire
Thanks again
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Old 11-24-2006, 09:48 PM   #28
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I already have this.


[ATTACH][/ATTACH]


Which works GRRRATE.

And I'm thinking I'll replace the yellow wedges (chocks) with this.


[ATTACH][/ATTACH]
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