12 volt wiring diagram - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-24-2007, 06:56 PM   #15
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Name: Roy
Trailer: 1972 boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
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Quote:
my understanding is that Roy has a round-pin connector on the trailer
Brian,
I do have a 7 pin round. It was made by Air Tex of Dallas Texas (who I can't find on the web) and I have attached pictures showing the 7 round as well as the 7 flat and the original 120 V extension cord.

I would assume that if the original extension cord was made by Air Tex for RV's that their round 7 pin connector might have also been made for RV's. Then again I could be wrong.

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Old 07-25-2007, 01:00 PM   #16
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Well, that's one unusual connector. For a connector with seven round pins, I was expecting one like this Cole-Hersee product:


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This connector apparently (according to Cole-Hersee) meets SAE J560b standards... but I have not looked that one up yet to find a current rating, and the Cole-Hersee catalog doesn't seem to mention ratings. It does accommodate up to 8 gauge wire on the "ground" pin (which I believe is the larger one at top), which suggests a decent current capacity...

The pins are evenly spaced, versus the Air Tex pins which are not, so they are not compatible connectors.
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Old 07-27-2007, 02:13 PM   #17
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About the auto-reset CB vs the manual-CB, my personal logic and preference is that I want the CB to be clicking away so I know something is wrong before my battery dies. I believe the (relatively inexpensive) ARCB will burn out before the wires do, so the its primary function is satisfied, it will reset itself from something momentary and it will let me know by noise or smoke signals that something has been wrong. However, I am using the larger ARCBs, not the ones to fit the blade-style holders.

I had a problem once with a bad starting battery on my truck at a campsite and when I went to start it, the starter load popped the 30A fuse on my egg battery when it tried to help. Had I not disconnected the egg battery to bring it within jumper cable range of the truck battery, I would not have discovered the blown fuse for a while.

I used a 30A breaker because that's the size fuse Scamp put on egg battery and on the wire between the converter and battery.

Regarding two different sized wires between the charging system and the egg battery, if the resistance goes up in the smaller one, I would expect more current to flow in the larger one. Two wires of unequal size are going to carry more current than two wires of the smaller size or one wire of the larger size, and I believe some of it will be at higher voltage, resulting in a higher percent charge to the battery.

When trying to connect a large wire to the Bargman/Pollack connector, you will likely have to snip a few strands off the wire. I also made a connection between the connector, white wire (which I ran all the way back to the negative terminal on the truck battery) and the truck frame near the connector.

Regarding the 120VAC GFCI breakers and the 12VDC ground/negative/return connection, the GFCI work by sensing the differential between the line and neutral of the circuit and have nothing to do with the green ground. In fact, they will work just fine if the green wire isn't even connected. They merely sense that less energy is coming back on one wire than was sent out on the other and open the path (the presumption is that the 'missing' energy has gone to ground by some path, but that may have been a puddle or whatever).
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Old 07-27-2007, 02:57 PM   #18
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Quote:
Regarding two different sized wires between the charging system and the egg battery, if the resistance goes up in the smaller one, I would expect more current to flow in the larger one.
If you have a run of wire of some length, and replace some of it with a smaller-gauge wire (same overall length), then that's more resistance in the smaller-gauge section. More resistance means less current, given the same supply voltage. The current is the same in both sections of the wire, since the sections are connected in series (it's like a hose... all the water coming through one end had to come from the other end).

Now I think I understand the confusion: Roy is describing "50 feet of 8 ga along with 10 feet of 10 ga" in series; Pete's comments would apply to parallel wires (both running from the same source to the same destination).

Quote:
Two wires of unequal size are going to carry more current than two wires of the smaller size or one wire of the larger size...
Again, this is true for parallel wires: with the sections of wire in series, decreasing the resistance of any part decreases the total resistance, and thus more current for the same driving voltage.
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Old 07-27-2007, 04:05 PM   #19
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Once again, I didn't read the original post correctly. I was influenced in my reading by what I had done in some places on my system (I put heavier wires +&- between my egg battery and my 12VDC distribution fuse block, paralleling the original wires), plus I put a negative/return/ground wire between the truck battery, the egg connector and truck frame, paralleling the truck's frame ground system). My objective was to reduce the wiring losses between my battery and my appliances, so the battery would last longer.

I then beefed up the wire from the truck battery to the egg connector, leaving my original egg connector cable wiring as the smallest wire in the charge system so my battery would charge quicker and to a higher percentage of charge.

Indeed, in series, the current through all wires will be the same, with the choke points being the fuse(s), the connections, the fuse holder wires, the lighter gauge wires and the heavier gauge wires (plus whatever choke points exist in the sometimes overlooked return paths). Clearly, the longer the small wire, the more resistance it will contribute to the system...

Off line, I was asked if I have any kind of isolation system (diode/relay) between my truck and trailer and the answer is no. I don't have a furnace fan or a reefer, and my egg battery alone can literally last more than a month for my frugal needs, so the danger of running down my truck's starting battery is so slight that I haven't bothered to install automatic isolation. I would feel differently about that if I had some serious energy-sucking appliances, of course.
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Old 08-23-2012, 08:38 PM   #20
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looking for a plug for an air tex 7 pin harness

hi all,

i have an air tex 7 pin harness on my 72 american boler. i am trying to figure out how to connect it to the 4 pin flat on my town + country van. i am trying to not take out the original 7 pin. does anybody know where i can find an adapter plug that will fit that 7 pin harness. the pins are not evenly spaced + are exactly like the pictures that roy posted years ago.

Thanks!
stephen
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Old 08-23-2012, 09:48 PM   #21
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If you want to hook to the van's 4 pin plug, that will only work the trailer lights. I would just cut off that air tex plug, figure out what wires are for the lights, and wire on a 4 pin to mate to the one on your van. I don't think you'll find an adapter plug. Since you're also in NY, come on over and I'll help you do it. Bob
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Old 08-27-2012, 09:56 PM   #22
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wiring issues

hi bob,

thanks so much for your generous offer. i ended up doing a simple 4 wire hook up to get brakes, lights, and signals operational to get the bolero moving. we will be testing her out this weekend, so crunch time is on. power washing, scrubbing etc. nothing, nothing is easy on this one, as there are very limited parts on the american model due to such a short production run so long ago.

where are you located? we are up in putnam county.

thanks again,
stephen
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Old 08-27-2012, 10:10 PM   #23
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We are in Chatham, Columbia County. just off I 90, about 25 miles south east of Albany, on the east side of the Hudson River, and 12 miles from the city of Hudson
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Old 08-27-2012, 10:16 PM   #24
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hi bob,

we have friends in old chatham. if we head up your way, we will give you a shout. the same if you come on down this way, as we are east of the hudson + across from west point.
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Old 08-27-2012, 10:53 PM   #25
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That would be great if you get up this way, let us know. Bob
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Old 09-02-2012, 10:02 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boler boy View Post
does anybody know where i can find an adapter plug that will fit that 7 pin harness. the pins are not evenly spaced + are exactly like the pictures that roy posted years ago.
Stephen,
I think I still have mine kicking around if you need it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by boler boy View Post
there are very limited parts on the american model due to such a short production run so long ago.
There are only a few parts specific to the boler American, everything else is generic used in many trailers. Much like a you can swap rad caps between many vehicles. Sometimes it is like tires, you need to find the right size to fit your rim and vehicle.
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