13ft U-Haul Rescued - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-15-2009, 08:47 AM   #15
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Gary:

Are these what you need?

http://www.perfectfit.com/15594/156059/Gla...ked-Lining.html product AS1268

If so, thanks to Ami, owner of a 16' VT who found them.

CindyL
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Old 10-15-2009, 08:52 AM   #16
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Thanks CindyL.

Yes and no.
That is the rubber channel part I am going to order but the "window seal" is the part I can't find.
I was wondering if I even need the "window seal" part at all to stop the leaks.
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Old 10-15-2009, 09:09 AM   #17
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I used the putty tape on my leaky front and rear windows. I have yet to tackle the sides. There is a major design flaw in the windows. Make sure your trailer is level, the drip holes are clean. The inside flange is not very tall in relation to the gutter. When they put on the screen the rivet holes may be the source of your leak. Good Luck.
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Old 10-15-2009, 09:16 AM   #18
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Here is a picture of the seal I am looking for.

I can see what you mean about the design flaw.
I removed the screen and the lip needs to be taller on the inside of the windows.
The lip is the same on the inside as it is on the outside.
The water seems to be "wicking" up between the window and the screen.
From the manual, it looks like the seal I need is an upgrade from a square seal with no lip on it that was used earlier.
I may have to make something up to replace it.
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Old 10-15-2009, 11:47 AM   #19
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Another option is to replace the side windows with "regular" ones that don't utilize a rubber lip seal. I researched this for my (recently sold) U-haul, and found that the windows Scamp sells were very likely to be a fit. (IIRC they were exactly the same side-to-side and 1/2" smaller top to bottom. That difference might very well be accounted for by the lip seal; so they might fit just fine as is, or at worst, might require a very small amount of fiberglassing that would subsequently be covered up by the window frame.

A bonus is that you then have the choice of sliding windows, or jalousie windows (my eternal favorite as I like being able to keep them open rain or shine (or "might rain should I close the window or not; oh wait, I don't have to worry about that").

I priced the same windows from Buccaneer and other companies. and they were going to be around $450 apiece or more; from Scamp parts department (who must buy in volume), they were about $125 for the sliders and $135 for the jalousie. I think there was about a $20 crating fee, but that would cover two windows if ordered at the same time.

If I had kept the U-haul, I would have gone that way. Then you can put the windows in with butyl tape, just like everyone else, and also re-seal them when the time comes, with the only "degradable" part being the butyl tape that is easily replaceable - not a rubber seal that is part of the window.

Of course you would want to measure and decide for yourself.

That was my thought, anyway, so I thought I'd post the information.

Raya
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Old 10-15-2009, 12:03 PM   #20
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Raya,
Thanks for the comments.
I was wondering what it would cost to just replace the windows.
I'm not sure which way to go at this point.
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Old 10-15-2009, 12:37 PM   #21
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Raya and Gary:

No one on uhaulcamper.com has been able to use Scamp windows for UHauls that I am aware of.

Gary, my husband solved our leaks with the suggested redrilling of the drip thingys. Try a PM to Ami; he redid his windows and was able to find what he needed. You could also pay the membership over on uhaulcamper and search the archives. This is a common problem with several threads from different people on how they resolved the issue.

CindyL
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Old 10-15-2009, 12:45 PM   #22
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Thanks for all of the comments and suggestions.

At the very least, I have to replace the channel rubber anyway.

I have removed one of the screens and I see why the rivet holes can easily leak.
I am going to redo all of the screens and see if that will work.

I'll post my results later.
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Old 10-15-2009, 12:48 PM   #23
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great find Gary,
I did the cushions on mine and they weren't that tough. go for it!
let me know what you do with the stove top. I was thinking of getting it powdered coated but I'm not sure how that will hold up.
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Old 10-15-2009, 12:53 PM   #24
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Quote:
No one on uhaulcamper.com has been able to use Scamp windows for UHauls that I am aware of.
Cindy,

I have a couple of questions, assuming that we are all talking about the side dinette windows (or were they trying to replace other windows?):

1) Do you mean that they tried and failed? Or that no-one has actually ordered them and had them in hand to try them?

2) Do you know more specifically what the problem(s) were? That would be really useful information. Perhaps it's something that can't be overcome; on the other hand, it may be something relatively easy to solve for, once we know what the problem was.

Thanks for the info.

Raya
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Old 10-15-2009, 12:56 PM   #25
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ScottS,
I am going to look into powdercoating the stovetop in a "stainless steel" color.
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Old 10-15-2009, 01:32 PM   #26
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Hi Gary,

Congrats, your U-Haul looks great! I look forward to seeing your upcoming mods.

Regarding your quest for outside window molding; I posted our pretty-good solution earlier, and have included it below. Here's the link to the part we ordered (# 009-057). If anyone has a better solution I'd [b]love to hear about it!

Cindy: like Raya, I'm very curious why Scamp's replacement windows didn't work in U-Hauls.

best wishes,
Jeanne

Quote:
We bought rubber molding (part # 009-057) from Interstate Metal Fabricators. Among other things, they are suppliers of replacement Hehr window parts.

Interstate Metal Fabricators
13509 S E Johnson Road
Milwaukie, OR 97222
(503) 786-8860

email:info[at]interstatemetals.com

It isn't a perfect fit because it's actually made for thicker windows than the U-Haul has, and as a result it bunches up a little bit around the corners and doesn't quite meet the windowpane, but it's a huge improvement over nothing at all. Here's what it looks like in place:


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Good luck!
Jeanne
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Old 10-15-2009, 02:40 PM   #27
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Jeanne,
That looks darn close to the original.
I think I'll give it a try.
What do you mean Pretty-Close ? Does it still leak?
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Old 10-15-2009, 03:05 PM   #28
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Gary- the side windows do still leak, but I haven't installed our new glass channels yet and I think it's the old channels that are causing the leaks. The rubber molding is a pretty good fit because it doesn't quite meet the glass, but it's pretty close!

Jeanne


edited to add: I hope no one thinks our beloved U-Haul is getting waterlogged inside... It has a nice dry home and only got a little wet inside when I gave it a vigorous washing!
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