'74 Boler floor help? - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-19-2006, 08:47 PM   #1
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Trailer: Boler 1974
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I'm new to this forum, but it looks like it will be a terrific resource.

I just purchased a very beat-up old '74 Winnepeg boler for $1000 cdn. (a bit steep but I just knew I needed one!) It has had a very rough life bouncing up old forestry roads in NW Ontario prior to my purchase. It appears to have a new axel - which is good news....and does not appear to be painted -also good news....... but I also discovered a small crack in the frame near the wheel that will need to be welded. My major renovations are planned for next Spring because the weather is changing fast here!

Here are my first neo-boler quetions:

1) The fiberglass floor seems a bit soft underfoot when entering the door but is otherwise sound. Underneath the trailer floor has been pounded by gravel and has a few holes where plywood is now showing through.........I was planning to fix these holes this fall with some resin. Is this the right approach? In other posts people talked about trapping water which has me concerned but if the wood is not coated it will certainly get saturated in a rain during transport. Does it need drain holes? The trailer appears completely dry inside after a rain but could the rain be accessing the internal wood in the floor area from elsewhere?

2) How vertical can one safely tip back the boler on it's tail for conducting under floor repairs?

3) It also has an old Colman Model 9210M 9000 BTU/HR furnance which looks worst for wear and has not been tested yet. Was this the original furnance? and is worth keeping if it works?


Some pics attached.

Julian
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Old 09-19-2006, 09:45 PM   #2
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Quote:
2) How vertical can one safely [b]tip back the boler on it's tail for conducting under floor repairs?
That would be a unique approach! I would advise putting the trailer on a lift, instead.
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Old 09-19-2006, 11:19 PM   #3
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Name: Roy
Trailer: 1972 boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
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Quote:
I'm new to this forum, but it looks like it will be a terrific resource.

I just purchased a very beat-up old '74 Winnepeg boler for $1000 cdn. (a bit steep but I just knew I needed one!) It has had a very rough life bouncing up old forestry roads in NW Ontario prior to my purchase. It appears to have a new axel - which is good news....and does not appear to be painted -also good news....... but I also discovered a small crack in the frame near the wheel that will need to be welded. My major renovations are planned for next Spring because the weather is changing fast here!


Julian
Congratulations Julian and welcome to FGRV!

Considering a new axle costs a little more than $300, your really picked up your trailer for about $700, which is not bad. We picked up our Boler American for about $625. CDN. It needed major cleaning inside and out, has holes from a fallen tree and still needs a new axle. We drove from Toronto to S of Boston to pick it up. So if you got yours locally, I'm thinking you got a better deal than I.

Roy
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Old 09-20-2006, 02:20 PM   #4
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Name: Brian
Trailer: Boler (B1700RGH) 1979
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Quote:
...2) How vertical can one safely tip back the boler on it's tail for conducting under floor repairs?
My Boler is a B1700, which is the 17' model. It's frame is significantly different, so keep that in mind...

To work on my waste water tank, I put stands under the frame behind the axle and lifted the front until the bumper was almost touching the ground and the wheels were well off the ground; this was so high in front that it was well beyond the travel of the tongue jack. For reference, that bumper is normally 12" off the ground. I had no problems with this angle, which was still much closer to horizontal than vertical, and still had me lying on the ground (with decent working room ahead of the axle).

My biggest concern with tilting the trailer up would be the security of whatever method is used to support the frame - I wouldn't want to see it sliding back off of the stands. Other concerns might be tanks (mine were empty) and appliances, but I wouldn't worry about the refrigerator (assuming it is not turned on), since pulling those out and turning them completely over is apparently a valid method to make some of them work again!
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