'75 Trillium, Day 1 - The Clean Up - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-25-2012, 10:36 AM   #15
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Name: Ron
Trailer: Trillium 13 ft (green grape)
Ontario
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Dave
Silicone NO! NO! NO!
Butyl tape the BEST!!!! option .
Silicone is the damest stuff to try and remove later.

Ron
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Old 09-25-2012, 10:52 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RRJR View Post
Dave
Silicone NO! NO! NO!
Butyl tape the BEST!!!! option .
Silicone is the damest stuff to try and remove later.

Ron

OUCH!!!. I've had lots of success with silicone on fiberglass bath tubs and shower enclosures. Ron, How long ago did you replace your Trillium windows with butyl tape?

I guess I better do the hose test this weekend. Thanks for all the feedback and I hope to prove you all wrong

If I did make a mistake at least it wasn't an expensive one.
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Old 09-25-2012, 04:57 PM   #17
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Question

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Originally Posted by dylemma View Post
Couldn't keep the 3-way fridge lit on propane but it did get nice and cold on 120. Robyne has some ideas to replace front panel. I do have a question though...when I choose the 120 V setting I can't use the gas stove. What am I doing wrong?
I know the stove works when it is set to propane.
Very odd. Are you saying that your stove will only work when the fridge is set to gas? Your fridge gas line shutoff valve should not affect the stove at all, except that the gas pressure from the tank would be slightly higher when the fridge is turned off because fewer things are using the gas at the same time. Your gas lines should run as one gas line from the tank through the regulator, then under the trailer it should split off into 3 lines for the fridge, stove and furnace. Each of those should be completely independent, and the shut off valves for each line are at the particular appliance. If you can only run the stove when the fridge is also set to gas, then I wonder whether a previous owner has changed the gas line so that your fridge gas line shutoff valve (the handle in your picture) also controls your propane stove. In other words, maybe your gas line to your stove was attached after the fridge valve somehow. I donít see that in your picture, so it is unlikely.

I suppose another remote possibility would be some water or similar substance in the gas line, which would move forward and block the gas line junction when the fridge is off, but recede to another spot that doesnít block the junction when the gas if turned off. I have never heard of anything like that, but your description of your symptoms is very strange.

Check your gas pressure at the regulator as well. Do you have a furnace and does it work all the time whether the fridge and stove are working or not?

You should consider clearing out your gas lines by disconnecting them at all the main junction points and blowing compressed air through to get rid of any blockages. Then reconnect them all back together and check for leaks using soapy water.

If you canít get the gas to stay lit on your fridge, that is another issue, possibly relating to a blockage in your orifice or gas line in the fridge or a defective gas safety valve. I assume from your post that there is some gas getting to the orifice so that it will light, but wonít stay lit. I would deal with the big issue first, the stove that wonít work when the fridge gas line is turned off.

Hope that helps.
Rick G
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Old 09-25-2012, 08:33 PM   #18
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Trailer: Trillium 13 ft (green grape)
Ontario
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Silicone may be OK at first but it gets dirty and shrinks with age and is a bu--er to get off, so stick with an non silicone product. Butyl is the best .
Ron
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Old 09-25-2012, 09:57 PM   #19
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Help!!!!

Alright, I'll admit I was wrong. I wish I had done more research.
So where do I get this magic Butyl tape? does it come in different sizes? What size do I need?
Heading up Friday to pull the windows out, clean off the dreaded silicone and start over.
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Old 09-25-2012, 10:42 PM   #20
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Trailer: 2008 13' Scamp
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I get butyl tape from a local glass store. It's pretty available with an assortment of thicknesses and widths.

I've had a love-hate relationship with silicone for a long time. I agree with the negative comments about silicone, but only to a point. I've used it with a high degree of success on boats. It's not all bad. I woudn't remove what is probably a well sealed, unlikely to leak for several years window just to use butyl tape instead.

Ron
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Old 09-25-2012, 10:52 PM   #21
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I agree with Ron. While, not the best choice, it is done and good for three to four years. Every solution is temporary. Yours is just slightly more temporary Enjoy it while it lasts.

Part of the problem with silicone is how difficult it is to remove, once it has set. Search this site. Someone described a product that re-liquifies silicone. That is probably the best way to remove it.
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Old 09-26-2012, 06:21 AM   #22
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Silicone Removers

We had two silicone removers recommended to us but the user had not tried them on a gel-coat / fiberglass. They were:

Silicone Removal DSR-5 easily and quickly removes silicone and polyurethane caulks from a multitude of surfaces without damaging coatings or surrounding materials.

Remov Canada Re-Mov - Silicone & Adhesive Remover does not dissolve Silicone, it breaks the bond between the silicon and the substrate. and is safe on metals, glass, wood, fiberglass/gel coat, plexiglas/polycarbonates, carpets, etc.

If you do try either, would appreciate hearing the results.
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Old 09-26-2012, 06:05 PM   #23
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RV stores sell butyl tape. Usually in several widths. I also found it at the local lumber yard in a 1/2" by 50ft roll. It's used to seal sheet metal roofing. Make sure it says butyl tape as there are other products used for that purpose. I doubled it up when I did my windows. Raz
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Old 09-26-2012, 07:20 PM   #24
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Another question

There is some kind of calking around the belly band that is pretty much dried out and peeling off. I would like to remove and re-seal it. What should I use?
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Old 09-27-2012, 05:52 AM   #25
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There are lots of posts on the Trillium belly band. Do a search first. Caulking is a temporary fix. A non silicon caulk has been recommended in the past. I used Lexel on mine. It is not easy to work but does the job. Raz
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Old 09-27-2012, 08:16 AM   #26
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The belly band is one of the major jobs that every Trillium needs to have done. It stems from how the top and bottom are joined. The two half's were lined up by riveting the belly band to steel plates on the inside of the trailer. For every rivet in the belly band, there is a steel plate. Then they run a strip of fibreglass around the inside. The problem is that, from the outside, under the belly band, there are pockets that the steel plates sit in. These pockets collect water. The water freezes in the winter and expands, making the pocket bigger. At the same time, the presence of water and the different metals of the steel plate and the aluminum rivet creates a reaction resulting in the steel plate corroding and expanding as rust forms. This also causes the pocket to become bigger. Eventually the pocket ruptures into the trailer, and you have a leek.
The solution is to remove the belly band and the steel plates. Then fill the resulting void with fibreglass bondo, sand and paint. Personally I like the look with no belly band, but some then add an adhesive belly band on top of the repair.

I think that different metals are now used insted of the steel plates in the trailers made today. The same pockets probably exist.
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Old 10-06-2012, 11:42 PM   #27
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Your fridge looks just like the one I just replaced in my Scamp. It was an Dometic RM211...I replaced it with a Norcold 323. The local RV shop did the work. Beyond my comfort level. I have the RM211 manuals I'f be happy to mail them to you if you need them, or I could answer any specific questions via email. At the time my Dometic died it was only operating on 110V.
Lawrence
Albany Oregon
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