'77 Boler -- total newbies - Page 4 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 02-20-2011, 07:24 PM   #43
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Trailer: 1977 Boler
Kansas
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Well, the weather was very pleasant here today, low 70's. So, with Grandma around to watch the little ones, Jess and I did this. Finally some actual work accomplished. Woo Hoo. Now, if I can just convince FedEx to ship my axle from Paul in Canada, I will be happy.


Front view minus frame. (Yep those are Christmas lights you see. My plan was to take those lights down today, I got side tracked with the Boler.)


I can't wait to paint it up with some POR15. The frame is still really solid. No serious rust, just surface stuff. The back of the frame sags just a smidge on the left rear. I am still trying to figure out how or even, if I want to fix it. There are no cracks anywhere and all of the welds are still solid. That is all for now. I will post more pictures after paint.

--Sam
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Old 02-22-2011, 06:09 AM   #44
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Wow! All that 'stuff' that you've been collecting; quite a stash. It'll probably go together quickly once you're able to statr putting the puzzle back together. Looking forward to seeing the end results.
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Old 02-23-2011, 10:22 AM   #45
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Thank you for all the info.

Great project and I also love the tongue box along with your other plans! Only wish we had the temperature you do so I can start working on the Trillium!!
Roland
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Old 03-02-2011, 05:27 PM   #46
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Looking forward to when it warms up; working outside in driveway so all projects on hold. Warmer weather needed to finish up the boler.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Roland H View Post
Great project and I also love the tongue box along with your other plans! Only wish we had the temperature you do so I can start working on the Trillium!!
Roland
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Old 03-02-2011, 11:47 PM   #47
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Sam; for surface rust, use a wire brush then get Rust Converter (Auto parts store). POR- 15 will not stop the rust; it will continue to rust under the application. It's meant to cover pittting and areas where there is minor holes eaten thru sheet metal. It still needs a clean surface.
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Old 03-03-2011, 05:27 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Bese View Post
Sam; for surface rust, use a wire brush then get Rust Converter (Auto parts store). POR- 15 will not stop the rust; it will continue to rust under the application. It's meant to cover pittting and areas where there is minor holes eaten thru sheet metal. It still needs a clean surface.
Dave, we'll have to agree to disagree about this: POR15, Stop Rust Permanently I'm around hotrodders that spend thousands on their rides, this is the only product they'll use on frames, etc. The only thing, is the item being coated must be absolutely, positively grease free and all scale needs to be removed. It actually works better when there is surface rust, rather than a rust-free surface. POR15 will change from a high gloss to a satin finish unless top-coated, but the satin finish doesn't degrade it just looks different. YMMV
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Old 03-03-2011, 11:13 AM   #49
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Thanks for the feedback, folks. Sam's been working a few minutes here and there grinding off the loose stuff with a wire brush. Once we get a dry day and a couple of free hours, looks like we'll be ready to clean, prep, and coat that lovely frame in POR-15.

The last chunk of our restoration budget was recently eaten up by a hungry Volvo (unexpected repair bills are fun) so the inflow of stuff has come to a screeching halt. The last few purchases (windows, paint, air conditioner, brake controller) will require some patient saving. But there's still plenty of work to do in the meantime. I've started making the patterns for our new cushions:



and...

never fear -- the axle is here:



The new tires/wheels are temporarily mounted so we can roll it around -- whether they're actually going to fit is still a cliffhanger.

-- Jess
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Old 03-03-2011, 12:54 PM   #50
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Looking good!

Are they bigger wheels? They look like alloys.

Also, can you say how much for the axle and shipping?

I didn't know you guys had a Volvo. What do you have? Do you use it as a TV?
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Old 03-03-2011, 05:00 PM   #51
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Clive:
1: Thanks : )

2. They are indeed alloys (I think there's a better picture of one somewhere in our Flickr photostream linked below). Bigger for sure, but as long as everything works as needed, we're not bothered by having to cut away a bit of the shell. I admit to knowing about as much about tires & wheels as I do about electricity (ha!), but fortunately (or unfortunately?), Sam has a pretty sizable obsession with all things wheel-ish.

3. I can't find the debit for the axle purchase -- my spreadsheet says $425. Trying to ship via FedEx was a pain, so we eventually called UPS and the axle was on our doorstep in less than a week. They charged $190 to lug it from Canada to Kansas.

4. We just bought our Volvo last fall -- a '99 V70R with a whole heck of a lot of miles, but a nice maintenance record (to which we're adding more than we'd like!). It does a lot of nice things, though towing will not be one of them ; )

-- Jess

Jess is right, $425 for the axle with brakes. I don't recall the price with out brakes, I want to say $325. I ordered if from Paul Neumeister. He was a real pleasure to work with and would recommend him to anyone here.

The wheels are Ansen style wheels (kind of a retro five oval slotted wheel). They are 14x6, and I believe they use the same bolt pattern as some older fords. The fit will be tight, but should be okay with the fresh axle.

--Sam
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Old 03-03-2011, 09:50 PM   #52
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You might want to buy or rent a sandblaster, that will get ALL the rust off.
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Old 03-06-2011, 08:59 PM   #53
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Finally made some progress today. We got the old axle off, the frame cleaned and painted and the new axle back on. We ran out of daylight (and energy) to put the frame back under the Boler. Maybe next weekend.

Before:


Here is how it looks now:

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Old 03-06-2011, 09:05 PM   #54
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Good job!!!!
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Old 03-06-2011, 09:33 PM   #55
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YEAH looking good, .........

quick question how heavy is the frame by itself, i am going to be doing this come spring and just curious as to how much trouble it would be to flip it over to paint it!!???

thanks,

looking good by the way, .....
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Old 03-07-2011, 07:30 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbraunton View Post
quick question how heavy is the frame by itself?
Without the axle, the frame was easy to flip back and forth; a one-person job. With the axle back on, it was more awkward to lower down without a thud and an extra person was handy.

Oh, and while we did it we had a huge tarp down on the driveway -- the POR15 is thin and very drippy (and nearly impossible to clean off hands when one forgets to put his gloves back on before flipping the frame for the final coat -- just ask Sam).

-- Jess
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