A/C Issue - Fiberglass RV


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 07-26-2010, 12:09 PM   #1
Member
 
Georgana D's Avatar
 
Name: Georgana
Trailer: 1996 16 ft Scamp and 1990 16 ft Scamp
Pennsylvania
Posts: 52
A/C Issue

OK, it's been a while.
I have a question. I searched the topics and couldn't find an answer so.....
We finally got in 2 small trips in the '96 16'. 3 nights at Promised land and 4 nights between Hickory Run State Park, Leonard Harrison State Park, and, Lackawanna State Park .
On the last day (yesterday), we went through all the storage spaces to see what was packed that was not needed(according to Bill) and what may be needed. I had put the shower sandles and plastic garbage bags in the little compartment under the a/c. When we took everything out, we found that it was wet.
Today, I hooked the home electric up and turned on the a/c and it seems the leak is from the drip pan. There is a hose connected to a copper tube(?) at the bottom of the pan. The tube slides up and down in the pan and the water is running along the outside of the tube.
Should I maybe caulk around the outside of the tube against the pan, remove the tube, or just use a small container to catch the condensation?
The latter would be a real pain so I am looking for a more permanent solution.
Thanks in advance for your help,
G
__________________

__________________
Georgana D is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2010, 03:02 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
Harry Young's Avatar
 
Trailer: 1971 Astro (ie. Campster/Hunter I)
Posts: 437
Send a message via MSN to Harry Young Send a message via Yahoo to Harry Young
Smile ac

Dear G.

Window shakers are sometimes misunderstood in their design so I am not surprised when I see some of the creative installs on FBRV.

Usually I make no comment unless asked a questions directly as people show great pride and effort into the issues installing their window A/Cs, not wanting to steal thunder I am often aware how the install may function regardless of the pride in its looks.

To answer the question first you pose...

Water is generally disposed of in window units with the use of a slinger ring attached to the outside circumference of the outside condenser fan, the water exits the evaporator (the inside coil you see) at the bottom of that coil, in a tray made of Styrofoam usually and has channels molded into it. These channels allow water to trickle out of the inside area to the outside area without mixing the air moving inside or outside, the slinger ring outside is spinning being attached to the fan blade (a big circle) dipping into that water throwing "slings" it as it picks it up a tiny bit at a time, this aspirates it against the hot outside coil, this increases the efficiency of the outside condenser coil boiling off the water so to speak.

In humid climes where there is allot of water entering the system from the cold coil condensing it out of the humid air problems occur. The condenser cannot burn it off fast enough sometimes so an over flow is employed. This excess water drips off a notch at the rear of the a/c or in some units a tube is used...This is no longer done in current designs favoring the notch at the rear today.

In some A/C installs I have witnessed as of late the owners do not want to put the back of the unit outside the trailer as it disturbs the looks of their eggs...The unit is designed to hang out so outside ambient hot air blows thru its outside coils only, while cool inside air blows thru the inside coil only and the two NEVER mix...They are separate operating systems on purpose. When this rule is changed in the manner of its install issues will present themselves not thought of.

When inside air is purposed to the outside coil water cannot evaporate fast enough, on a 100 degree day with 100% humidity the coil using inside air for the outside coil will hit 110 degrees about, not 140 degrees as it was designed for, it needs the hotter air supply. The tilt of this unit must also be about 3 degrees to the rear outside coil or water will flow everywhere. Never must it tilt towards the inside coil.

When these window shakers are used in closets for instance great care must be given to the tilt and the absolute need to use outside air for the outside coil, and inside air for the inside coil.

I hope this helps, your specific cure is a unique situation to your trailer install and I am not aware of its install or model, also how what air is dedicated to its parts of operation is done in your case. If inside air flows thru the outside coil for instance the water is re-evaporating into the trailer over and over until the inside coil is overwhelmed and it goes everywhere.

If I could have a peek at your install it would help my answer to be more specific to your install.

A drain system is always a good idea, sealing it into the pan is a must.

The reason water is eliminated is the capacity to cool is greatly diminished when air is moist, also physics requires that to occur first BEFORE the temperature of air drops even one degree.

It works like this, if in one square cubic foot of dry air we remove 1 b.t.u. (measure of heat) that air will drop 1 degree. We moistion that same cubic foot of air and we will need to remove 144 b.t.u.s of heat to create water, then when the water is extracted the air may drop 1 degree.

This is why A/C units must be managed in certain ways, physics is the task master in design.

For those who want to box the A/C unit behind secret unseen places must place great thought to separate ducted air supplies (for the outside air) for these units...think inside/outside air always.

Happy Camping, Safe trails.

Harry
__________________

__________________
Harry Young is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2010, 03:53 PM   #3
Member
 
Georgana D's Avatar
 
Name: Georgana
Trailer: 1996 16 ft Scamp and 1990 16 ft Scamp
Pennsylvania
Posts: 52
Thanks Harry, a little technical for me but will try to break it down to where I can fully understand.
I'll also try to get some pictures for you to be able to understand at my end. The unit was put in at the factory and both the vents on the outside and the trim around the inside are riveted. The ac in under the closet with a small access door underneath. There you can see the tube coming from the underside of the pan, the plastic tube that it is attached to to drain outside the camper, and the cord that plugs in under the sink.
Thanks again for your reply,
Georgana
__________________
Georgana D is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2010, 04:18 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
Harry Young's Avatar
 
Trailer: 1971 Astro (ie. Campster/Hunter I)
Posts: 437
Send a message via MSN to Harry Young Send a message via Yahoo to Harry Young
Thumbs down A/c

What is the trailer manufacturer.

Harry
__________________
Harry Young is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-27-2010, 08:34 AM   #5
Member
 
Georgana D's Avatar
 
Name: Georgana
Trailer: 1996 16 ft Scamp and 1990 16 ft Scamp
Pennsylvania
Posts: 52
Oh, brain doner on this end, it's a scamp. Also, after scooting way down to remove the front cover, it's a westinghouse. After supper, my husband came out and took a look. We replaced the drain hose and the water was still running along the outside of it as well as inside. The hose fit on the drain tube snugly. As the tube is loose, and the hose exits the trailer about 8" behind and to the left of the tube, we secured the hose directly under the tube with a strap and caulked around the top of the tube.
I'll check it later.
Thanks again Harry for your help.
__________________
Georgana D is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-27-2010, 08:41 AM   #6
Senior Member
 
Bryan L.'s Avatar
 
Trailer: 1991 Scamp 16 ft
Posts: 304
Harry, I tried to send you a message but your message box was full. Interesting write-up and was just looking for deficiencies on my recent AC install.
__________________
Bryan L. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2010, 12:01 AM   #7
Senior Member
 
Harry Young's Avatar
 
Trailer: 1971 Astro (ie. Campster/Hunter I)
Posts: 437
Send a message via MSN to Harry Young Send a message via Yahoo to Harry Young
Smile water water every where

If the water appears lets say in a two hour period I would suspect (1) its not tipped rearward enough or (2) the passage way for water to go into the rear of the unit from the cold coil section is plugged, in the Westinghouse brand of late its a molded styrofoam passage comming in on the compressor side...its a gap only and is easily pluged up by alge or gooey junk.

I would remove the outer cover and inspect for this if it were in my shop.
__________________
Harry Young is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2010, 12:03 AM   #8
Senior Member
 
Harry Young's Avatar
 
Trailer: 1971 Astro (ie. Campster/Hunter I)
Posts: 437
Send a message via MSN to Harry Young Send a message via Yahoo to Harry Young
Bryan,

Thanks for the F.Y.I. on my box, I have made room.

Harry


Quote:
Originally Posted by Bryan L. View Post
Harry, I tried to send you a message but your message box was full. Interesting write-up and was just looking for deficiencies on my recent AC install.
__________________
Harry Young is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2010, 01:09 AM   #9
Junior Member
 
Trailer: Scamp 13 ft
Posts: 7
thanks for the information. i wish i had read it this spring before i installed a 5,000 btu window unit to a scamp 13'. i installed this unit in the closet, over the wheel-well, and made sure i had channeling to separate the functions. also i cut the vent units to allow more air-flow. i was not satisfied with the results, however, so i went back to the drawing board, and now have a system that slides out to where it would be in a window installation, outside vents outside, and slanted for draining. works great. people should "study up" a bit before attempting this project, but sometimes it's hard to find the information.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Harry Young View Post
Dear G.

Window shakers are sometimes misunderstood in their design so I am not surprised when I see some of the creative installs on FBRV.

Usually I make no comment unless asked a questions directly as people show great pride and effort into the issues installing their window A/Cs, not wanting to steal thunder I am often aware how the install may function regardless of the pride in its looks.

To answer the question first you pose...

Water is generally disposed of in window units with the use of a slinger ring attached to the outside circumference of the outside condenser fan, the water exits the evaporator (the inside coil you see) at the bottom of that coil, in a tray made of Styrofoam usually and has channels molded into it. These channels allow water to trickle out of the inside area to the outside area without mixing the air moving inside or outside, the slinger ring outside is spinning being attached to the fan blade (a big circle) dipping into that water throwing "slings" it as it picks it up a tiny bit at a time, this aspirates it against the hot outside coil, this increases the efficiency of the outside condenser coil boiling off the water so to speak.

In humid climes where there is allot of water entering the system from the cold coil condensing it out of the humid air problems occur. The condenser cannot burn it off fast enough sometimes so an over flow is employed. This excess water drips off a notch at the rear of the a/c or in some units a tube is used...This is no longer done in current designs favoring the notch at the rear today.

In some A/C installs I have witnessed as of late the owners do not want to put the back of the unit outside the trailer as it disturbs the looks of their eggs...The unit is designed to hang out so outside ambient hot air blows thru its outside coils only, while cool inside air blows thru the inside coil only and the two NEVER mix...They are separate operating systems on purpose. When this rule is changed in the manner of its install issues will present themselves not thought of.

When inside air is purposed to the outside coil water cannot evaporate fast enough, on a 100 degree day with 100% humidity the coil using inside air for the outside coil will hit 110 degrees about, not 140 degrees as it was designed for, it needs the hotter air supply. The tilt of this unit must also be about 3 degrees to the rear outside coil or water will flow everywhere. Never must it tilt towards the inside coil.

When these window shakers are used in closets for instance great care must be given to the tilt and the absolute need to use outside air for the outside coil, and inside air for the inside coil.

I hope this helps, your specific cure is a unique situation to your trailer install and I am not aware of its install or model, also how what air is dedicated to its parts of operation is done in your case. If inside air flows thru the outside coil for instance the water is re-evaporating into the trailer over and over until the inside coil is overwhelmed and it goes everywhere.

If I could have a peek at your install it would help my answer to be more specific to your install.

A drain system is always a good idea, sealing it into the pan is a must.

The reason water is eliminated is the capacity to cool is greatly diminished when air is moist, also physics requires that to occur first BEFORE the temperature of air drops even one degree.

It works like this, if in one square cubic foot of dry air we remove 1 b.t.u. (measure of heat) that air will drop 1 degree. We moistion that same cubic foot of air and we will need to remove 144 b.t.u.s of heat to create water, then when the water is extracted the air may drop 1 degree.

This is why A/C units must be managed in certain ways, physics is the task master in design.

For those who want to box the A/C unit behind secret unseen places must place great thought to separate ducted air supplies (for the outside air) for these units...think inside/outside air always.

Happy Camping, Safe trails.

Harry
__________________

__________________
Margaret R-J is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
a/c, air conditioning


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Weight Issue Clark Martin Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 22 04-28-2010 12:34 AM
Production Issue theresa p General Chat 3 04-14-2010 03:34 PM
TV Braking Issue Tamid Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 9 04-14-2009 06:11 PM
solar issue cyndi H Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 31 08-21-2008 11:19 AM

» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.
» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:46 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.