A/C Woes- Climb on top of Scamp? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-11-2016, 11:20 AM   #15
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Name: CAROL
Trailer: '79 Boler 1700
Manitoba
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I'm interested in this topic as well. We have to do some vent repairs on top of our 17 ft Boler and the weight on the roof is an issue. Also the roof is higher in the middle than along the sides. I suggested my husband try leaning two extension ladders against the Boler, one on each side and then running a plank between the two. We haven't tried it yet. Would this be a viable solution ?
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Old 06-11-2016, 12:42 PM   #16
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California
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This has been a valuable topic to me and I don't have a roof ac on my old Honey. I had thought about doing some sort of retrofit to add one, but Im thinking now the slide in from the side AC might be a lot better option in my case.
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Old 06-11-2016, 01:53 PM   #17
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Missouri
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From a female point of view.....I would be inclined to cut an access hole in the roof of the carport, drive the trailer under, and work on the trailer through the hole. Then, reinstate roof plug in carport. Seems simpler...to me, anyway.

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Old 06-11-2016, 02:13 PM   #18
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Since my wife weighs far less than my 225 lbs , when I replaced my roof fan , she went up on the roof . Plus she does a far neater job of caulking. My wife is liberated which helps.
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Old 06-11-2016, 02:29 PM   #19
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British Columbia
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Originally Posted by Darral T. View Post
Good info Steve. But no hatch. Forklift? Problem is, I TEACH forklift here at my job. THEY would get to me quicker here than OSHA! Because I stress heavily to NEVER lift people by a pallet. So that option doing it with a forklift here at my work place just isnt going to happen.
Well you could always put a pallet on the fork lift and lift it up over the trailer and park it there, then use a ladder to climb up onto the pallet.

If you do the above then technically you have not lifted anyone using the forklift.
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Old 06-11-2016, 02:41 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by CA Douglas View Post
I'm interested in this topic as well. We have to do some vent repairs on top of our 17 ft Boler and the weight on the roof is an issue. Also the roof is higher in the middle than along the sides. I suggested my husband try leaning two extension ladders against the Boler, one on each side and then running a plank between the two. We haven't tried it yet. Would this be a viable solution ?
I have done that. Just make sure you have the ladder and board well secured on at least one side so the board &/or ladder do not slip any which way. I secured the board on one side to the ladder by putting a couple of holes in the board and used rope to tie it to the ladder. Then secured the ladder to awning to keep it from slipping. Used pool noodles on the ladder where it contacted the trailer to keep from scratching it.

In a perfect world using scaffolding placed on both sides of the trailer would be way better though. Balancing yourself while kneeling & reaching out from a narrow board is uncomfortable if you have a job requiring more than a few minutes up there.
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Old 06-11-2016, 04:07 PM   #21
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I would call an equipment rental company and have them drop enough scaffold to build over top. From what I remember from my framing days years ago you'll need 6 end pieces bridged by 2 centers.

I should add scaffold usually has cross members to tie the legs together and stop them from spreading. You'd have to rig that someway... maybe straps under the trailer.
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Old 06-11-2016, 06:22 PM   #22
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Name: Darral
Trailer: Scamp Standard 13' 2010
Tennessee
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Mon:
Go back and check out my link on the carport. No matter if the tin was removed, it's still too high above the A/C to do any good.

Carol:
You're exactly right in that the FL is the easiest AND quickest. But I'd have to do it at work and I just wont breach the teaching....not worth it.

lwehrly:
I have mixed emotions on the top A/C. I like it up there out of the way. BUT, I told Dave @ Scamp yesterday that if I had it to do all over, I'd skip the $650 option, buy a Wally World $100 A/c....when it gives trouble, throw it away and go get another one! Plus, my Coleman weighs 93 lbs, the $100 units about 40! Soooo...it's a tradeoff here. In the cool weather though, it wouldnt even have to ride along. Lower drag and lighter. I would have my $100 A/C set on the bed while traveling. I'd make an angle iron tray to slide it into the back window when camping. If I were buying new today, would I skip the roof-mount A/C? At this point, I simply dont know.

CA & Steve D:
Well, I can PROMISE you my wife wont be up there. She's just not the "handy" type and wouldnt know what to do when she did.

CA, I've thought about the ladders and board. But the deal is, I'm going to be all over that A/C- especially working out of the center of it! So, I'm going to need a larger platform than a board. I did have another brainstorm while out today. I can use "chains" and make a simple ply platform to suspend from the center of the carport. I may secure the outer edge to the carport so it wont get me "swinging" in the air. This WONT be a pleasure trip so I dont want to be swinging!!
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Old 06-11-2016, 06:47 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Keaner View Post
I would call an equipment rental company and have them drop enough scaffold to build over top. From what I remember from my framing days years ago you'll need 6 end pieces bridged by 2 centers.

I should add scaffold usually has cross members to tie the legs together and stop them from spreading. You'd have to rig that someway... maybe straps under the trailer.
When I first realized that my fear of falling off my Scamp's roof was going to keep me on the ground, I went to a large equipment rental co. and priced the rental of a very small electric powered scissor-type platform lift. I can't remember the actual rental fee for one day's use...but, with the lift delivery and pickup cost, the price was about $350.00!

Needless to say...I'm still waiting for a much cheaper method! However, I didn't check the price for renting scaffolding. That sounds like a good method and idea.

I believe if I was only worried about damaging the roof, I'd just lay a large sheet of 3/3 plywood width-wise across the top of the trailer and lay on it todo the work.

Bill
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Old 06-11-2016, 07:03 PM   #24
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I believe if I was only worried about damaging the roof, I'd just lay a large sheet of 3/3 plywood width-wise across the top of the trailer and lay on it todo the work.

Bill
From working on my patio roof, I can tell you that works well, until you hear CRACK!!!
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Old 06-11-2016, 07:07 PM   #25
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From working on my patio roof, I can tell you that works well, until you hear CRACK!!!


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Old 06-11-2016, 07:31 PM   #26
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Place 2 full sections of scaffolding with cross braces on either side of your trailer . Run planks with cleats from scaffold to scaffold .
We did this many times when working over the top of stationary equipment . This set up is extremely stable because of the large base of the scaffold on either side . Two adult males can work off the platform without issue.
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Old 06-11-2016, 10:13 PM   #27
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I took another photo of the top of my Scamp this afternoon to help see what I'm up against. It's not about just laying a piece of plywood up there with internal bracing. SO, I may still use something inside to support the A/C in case I'm leaning on it, but obviously from this photo, you can see I WILL need a "platform" of sorts.
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13 ft Scamp Top view with AC.jpg  
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Old 06-12-2016, 07:24 AM   #28
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NC
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Before we owned a Fiberglass camper, owned a LivinLite CampLite 11 all aluminum camper. Had the rubbing sound in the 13.5K Coleman Polar Mach AC while on a 6000 mile round trip out west. Stopped using the AC until getting back home. Was not aware of the modification drilling a hole in the fan shaft, but here's the repair. This metal roof/structure was OK for walking on.

Like the idea of renting scaffolding to get on top of the Scamp. Assume your 9.2K AC is similar the the 13.5K unit.

Found item #9, blower wheel clamp was a little loose clamping the blower to item #3, blower motor shaft. The blower slid down about 1/4" rubbing item #16, scroll housing.

13,500 Coleman Polar Mach parts diagram:

Laurelhurst Distributors Parts Breakdown - Air Conditioners

Removed AC cover:



Blower motor and top sheet-metal cover to be removed:



Where blower was contacting scroll housing:



Blower:



Blower slid down on motor shaft:



Motor shaft in good condition and securing nuts secure:



Re-positioned & secured blower on motor shaft:



The noise is gone and AC cooling great. Had about 20,000 miles on this travel trailer before selling when we purchased a fiberglass trailer!

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