A/C Woes- Climb on top of Scamp?

[Darral T.]

We took our Scamp out for the first time this year. I noticed the A/C’s fan making a scrubbing noise. This actually happened back in Sept as well. I re-leveled the Scamp and it stopped. I mess around with the Coleman Polar Cub 9200 btu for a bit and can make it stop but pulling down on the “duct” inside. I place a small “stick” of plastic in there...but later it does it again. By the time I got home and got the Scamp up on jackstands, the fan is low enough now that the unit wont even start! I can spin it by hand but it’s tough.

Problem #1:
I spoke with AirExcel (Coleman) and he said, “Yep, it’s a known problem with the blower fan slipping down on the shaft.” SOOOoo...a blasted “design” issue! The fix he says? A self-tapping screw with Loctite and a flat washer. What????? Yep, I spoke with a tech at Cullum-Maxey in Nashville, TN. that told me he’s fixed MANY of those units. They (Coleman) started sending out the “kits” (Self-tapping screw with loctite and a flat washer) for them to use to fix this. The trick is, you have to drill a hole in the end of the shaft. THIS keeps the fan from slipping down any further. I was blown away! Which leads to-

Problem #2:
So, I ask the Coleman tech if this could be done from the inside. Nooo...it has to be done from the top! You realize what this means? Which leads to-

Problem #3:
You HAVE to get up on top of the Scamp to do this! The problem is with this, I spoke with Dave the production manager at Scamp. He hesitantly asked me what I weighed. Well, it’s about 185. He was very leery about me getting up there. We discussed boards, ply, etc to distribute the weight. Mine is the 13’ with bathroom and that will help a lot because of the full wall that runs side-to-side and ceiling-to-floor. He suggested the door side but I have the awning. There’s several things I’ve thought of including:
Forklift with pallet, Jenny Boom, scaffolding, putting some boards across my carport with ply and/or boards on them, or just crawling up there and letting it go. But, honestly, it would be disastrous should the roof crack and which would create a WHOLE lot more problems than what I have now IF I can find a away to safely do this.

I did call Dave again this morning and told him I had a “brain storm” that I think will work but wanted his blessing on it. I can take some 2X’s and place inside with a board running along side the A/C on the ceiling. Screw a couple of uprights to the ceiling support and one to a 2X support or base on the floor. If/when there’s give on the ceiling, it will transfer it to the floor- just like “load bearing” walls in a house. Dave said, “I never thought about that, but it will work.”

Have any of you ever gotten on top of your Scamp? Bracing may not be necessary but I didnt want to take any chances. I had a private “tech” tell me, “I know the roof on the Scamp cant be THAT d**n weak!” ...well...dunno and as much as I love to “test”, I just cant afford to see how much it WILL take.

It’s very hot here and it will be awhile before I tackle this but wanted to share it and see if any of you have had any reason to get on top of a Scamp (or Casita). Also, if anyone has this A/C, just beware...it most likely will happen :-( . Needless to say, I’m VERY disappointed in this Coleman design. If there's any interest on this thread, I'll post some pics and the fix later on.

[gordon2]

I would use Scaffolding, or take it to a repair shop where they can work on it without crushing in the roof..

or

suspension from a cable Mission Impossible style

..

[cpaharley2008]

I have seen members here install reinforcement like you mentioned for heavy snow loads in the winter.

[Darral T.]

No repair shop. I just dont trust those people...sorry. I have ONE tech that was recommended and he's moved on. He was at the Maxey/Cullum shop in Nashville. But I did get to talk to him and he's now in "Parts". Even the Coleman tech told me he would not take it to Camping World to which I wasnt anyway. Again, Dave was perfectly content on the interior reinforcing that "CPAHARLEY" is referring to.

CPA- I dont recall reading posts where guys have done this for winter, but I find it interesting and encouraging. It would be one of the easier ways to go.

Gordon, I liked the MI clip but think I'll pass on trying to hang by a cable.

[stevebaz]

I park my truck next to the Scamp and use it as a work platform. You can build a higher platform on top of the bed rails with plywood and 2"x6" That keeps most of my weight off the top. I have never had to go over center Like you will have to do to drill that little stinking hole. If I was doing it at work with a forklift I would use the pallet method. If you are caught by OSHA you will be drawn and quartered though. Bracing on the underside to the floor will protect the trailer in case of a miss hap. I would not like drilling that fan shaft. before I do that I would be looking into a shaft collar if there is room for one. With an airconditioner on the roof I would be very careful on how much pressure you add to the roof. You need a skinny ass 8 year old up there. Does your trailer have an emergency exit roof hatch? Maybe work from there.

[stevebaz]

Might be able to use a couple if these for your inside bracing.

2-in-1 Support/Cargo Bar

[Darral T.]

Good info Steve. But no hatch. Forklift? Problem is, I TEACH forklift here at my job. THEY would get to me quicker here than OSHA! Because I stress heavily to NEVER lift people by a pallet. So that option doing it with a forklift here at my work place just isnt going to happen.

I've considered a "set collar" but I'm not sure how much room I will have to work with on the shaft itself until I get in there. Another thing, I will have to watch for vibration...AND that brings on making sure you get the hole perfectly centered in the shaft and that the washer doesnt go off cock-eyed to one side on the bolt/screw!! But a set collar is definitely not out of the question yet. MUCH quicker.

I spoke with "Eric" again at Coleman and he sent me a small drawing that he actually made to help somebody that was doing this fix. He's using a washer that's barely larger than the shaft itself. I also told Eric that the shaft must be "soft" metal in order to drill it in place! One tech (I believe it was the tech at Maxey) actually suggested having someone skinny get up there and supervise. No way.... .

edit: Steve, just saw your post about the "Support Cargo Bars" from HF. NOT a bad idea buddy! I figure 2 2x4's- one one the ceiling and one on the floor to spread out and that would make THAT part of the operation MUCH easier and have them for cargo holds later on! Thanks for that suggestion. I'm open to ALL possibilities at this point!

Originally Posted by stevebaz

I park my truck next to the Scamp and use it as a work platform. You can build a higher platform on top of the bed rails with plywood and 2"x6" That keeps most of my weight off the top. I have never had to go over center Like you will have to do to drill that little stinking hole. If I was doing it at work with a forklift I would use the pallet method. If you are caught by OSHA you will be drawn and quartered though. Bracing on the underside to the floor will protect the trailer in case of a miss hap. I would not like drilling that fan shaft. before I do that I would be looking into a shaft collar if there is room for one. With an airconditioner on the roof I would be very careful on how much pressure you add to the roof. You need a skinny ass 8 year old up there. Does your trailer have an emergency exit roof hatch? Maybe work from there.

[SilverGhost]

Hmm, how high is the car port? Maybe parking so you can lay down on the car port roof and reach down to the AC unit? My other idea is scaffold ladders and planks.

Jason

[Mike Magee]

I would have the forklift with pallet parked in the correct location, and climb a ladder to it. Then they can't say you rode the forklift...

If you brace it, be sure you only step where there's bracing. Scamp shells really are not very strong in terms of a sudden concentration of weight/pressure in an isolated portion of the shell. Heck, if you tried going down the road without the inner cabinetry to brace the shell, it would look like a bowl of Jell-O. That FG just isn't very thick. It does what it's supposed to do, and does it well, but not much extra.

[stevebaz]

I wouldn't even bother with the screw washer and loctite I would just use a cotter pin. Shove it through and spread the legs some so it can't fly out. Much better balance

[steve dunham]

The shaft ( rotor) of an electrical motor when running seeks electrical center. If you couple up the motor with the shaft all the way toward the front or rear end bell the motor cannot find electrical center. If you remove the fan blade and run the motor it will self center and you can mark the shaft with a fine pencil. Then you can install a screw and the required washers so the shaft is centered on the pencil mark. Then reinstall the fan blade and check for proper clearance.

[Bill Nolen]

No matter how you end up getting safely onto the roof, i believe you thought about bracing the roof is a good idea.

When I was re-doing my 13' Scamp I removed the lower kitchen cabinet. To support the roof I made a simple 2 x 4 brace. I added simple move-able "feet" to the top and bottom of the 2 x 4 by using two small pieces of 1 x 4 to hold the tilting feet in place. Altogether the brace measured about 1-inch longer than the distance from the roof to the floor.

Simple to force into place with a tap at the top. Worked great in supporting the roof....at least the roof didn't drop down!



I'd like to install a fan/vent on the roof of my Scamp but frankly i'm afraid I'll fall off the roof! So I am interested in what you come up with!

Bill

[Darral T.]

I would REALLY like to use a set collar. I was told the fan should be above the end of the shaft anyway, but if it's flush it still wont hit the plastic shroud below. Will it? I've got a lot of investigating to do.

Steve D. That's a good idea on marking the shaft. How I would LOVE to have that shaft in the lathe where I COULD find the center and drill and tap it properly and not use a "self tapping" screw....IF I use the screw method.

Mike...it's just not gonna work for me on a forklift. That one is out. This is one time in life that I have to "live what I preach". (but it would be SO easy....

Bill Nolen...that is exactly what I had in mind basically. But I would definitely run a 2x4 or similar parallel to the A/C on the side. Each end of the board would have an upright that would go to the floor. Again, much like a load-bearing wall. I still like- I believe it was one of the Steve's that mentioned the HF cargo devices. I'd have to measure it to make sure it would be the right height. I havent looked that closely at it yet.

Again, tonight I was looking at my carport...that MAY be my method that would keep me TOTALLY away from the Scamp with boards. BUT, the only downside to that is, being very careful not to drop a board or what have you and damage the Scamp...I also thought about that with a forklift or Jenny Boom...DONT ram the Scamp!!

Regardless, I dread it.

Originally Posted by stevebaz

I wouldn't even bother with the screw washer and loctite I would just use a cotter pin. Shove it through and spread the legs some so it can't fly out. Much better balance

[Darral T.]

Another good thought Jason, but the carport is one of those that are put up on site by a crew...here's a look at it. Look at the braces inside and that's where I'm thinking I may can set up me some "scaffolding" type of arrangement for boards.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/50351683@N08/6141409044/

Also, here's a layout of my A/C. I had uploaded this diagram sometime back. Focus on #23...the plate that holds the motor that has a zillion screws that has to come out. And then #9 which is the offending fan!!

https://www.flickr.com/photos/50351683@N08/21254115579/

Originally Posted by SilverGhost

Hmm, how high is the car port? Maybe parking so you can lay down on the car port roof and reach down to the AC unit? My other idea is scaffold ladders and planks.

Jason

[CA Douglas]

I'm interested in this topic as well. We have to do some vent repairs on top of our 17 ft Boler and the weight on the roof is an issue. Also the roof is higher in the middle than along the sides. I suggested my husband try leaning two extension ladders against the Boler, one on each side and then running a plank between the two. We haven't tried it yet. Would this be a viable solution ?

[lwehrly]

This has been a valuable topic to me and I don't have a roof ac on my old Honey. I had thought about doing some sort of retrofit to add one, but Im thinking now the slide in from the side AC might be a lot better option in my case.

[monB]

From a female point of view.....I would be inclined to cut an access hole in the roof of the carport, drive the trailer under, and work on the trailer through the hole. Then, reinstate roof plug in carport. Seems simpler...to me, anyway.

Mon

[steve dunham]

Since my wife weighs far less than my 225 lbs , when I replaced my roof fan , she went up on the roof . Plus she does a far neater job of caulking. My wife is liberated which helps.

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by Darral T.

Good info Steve. But no hatch. Forklift? Problem is, I TEACH forklift here at my job. THEY would get to me quicker here than OSHA! Because I stress heavily to NEVER lift people by a pallet. So that option doing it with a forklift here at my work place just isnt going to happen.

Well you could always put a pallet on the fork lift and lift it up over the trailer and park it there, then use a ladder to climb up onto the pallet.

If you do the above then technically you have not lifted anyone using the forklift.

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by CA Douglas

I'm interested in this topic as well. We have to do some vent repairs on top of our 17 ft Boler and the weight on the roof is an issue. Also the roof is higher in the middle than along the sides. I suggested my husband try leaning two extension ladders against the Boler, one on each side and then running a plank between the two. We haven't tried it yet. Would this be a viable solution ?

I have done that. Just make sure you have the ladder and board well secured on at least one side so the board &/or ladder do not slip any which way. I secured the board on one side to the ladder by putting a couple of holes in the board and used rope to tie it to the ladder. Then secured the ladder to awning to keep it from slipping. Used pool noodles on the ladder where it contacted the trailer to keep from scratching it.

In a perfect world using scaffolding placed on both sides of the trailer would be way better though. Balancing yourself while kneeling & reaching out from a narrow board is uncomfortable if you have a job requiring more than a few minutes up there.