AC in Scamp 13'/Electrical, Propane ?'s - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-02-2006, 07:14 PM   #15
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We didn't want to give up any vauable closet space, so we installed our AC right through the back wall at floor level. We had metal supports welded onto the rear bumper to hold it steady. The spare tire was moved to the tongue. It works for us!

Sandra

Sandra, do you have pictures? Please?
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Old 06-02-2006, 07:30 PM   #16
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Hi, ya, Tirah!

For cushion covers, the best tip I saw on the forum and one that I employed, was getting a piece of plywood cut the same shape as each cushion and then stapling the fabric on. The board is always on the bottom so you wouldn't see the staples at all.
One additional suggestion (by the way, this is the same way I did our boat cushion replacements).

Be sure to buy the stainless steel staples. Costs a bit more but you won't end up with rust stains (or the things rusting out).
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Old 06-02-2006, 08:39 PM   #17
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Yes, I'll try to attach a couple of photos so you can see our "through the back wall" AC installation.
Sandra
Attached Thumbnails
access_door_2_and_AC_resized.jpg   exterior_with_AC.jpg  

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Old 06-02-2006, 11:32 PM   #18
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We didn't want to give up any vauable closet space, so we installed our AC right through the back wall at floor level.
How well does that work for you? I had heard that in a larger trailer (with a king-size bed) that had a similar arrangement to yours, the owner claimed that the only part that got cool was the "tunnel" under the bed. That person wound up removing the floor mount AC and installing a roof mounted one.

Maybe yours works because your bed is smaller?
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Old 06-03-2006, 12:07 AM   #19
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Hi Folks!
Does anyone have a suggestion as to the best way to install a standard, window air conditioner in a 13' Scamp (w/bunk option)? Is the closet the best place to put it? I saw a couple of posts about installing in the closet, but I wanted to check to make sure that's the very easiest method before I start working on it.


Thanks for any advice/tips/suggestions!
Tirah
Hi Tirah,

I installed a AC in the closet and love it! Despite some who may question putting a AC in a 13', here in South Carolina it is a necessity. The humidity here is quite high and a AC is about the only way to be comfortable during the summer.

If you install a AC in the closet, please pay strict attention to three things, outside air ventilation for the AC, separating outside air from inside air, & a condensation drain.

The wheel well makes a great base of support for a window AC. And putting it inside the closet puts it right over the axle, keeping any center of gravity or tongue weight issues to a minimum.

You can install a AC in the closet in such a way that you can slide it outside the trailer to operate...placing the unit on slides so that the normally exterior part of the unit is outside, eliminating any ventilation and condensation problems, or, mounting it firmly on the wheel well and ducting the unit and providing a drain. (That's the way I installed mine.)

I purchased a 5000 BTU Fridgidare unit from Lowes, (You won't need a larger unit, and it's the BTU size that Scamp used to install in closets...I asked them.) The unit I bought was chosen for it's size, particularly it's width. At 15" it gave me approx. 1 1/2" on each side inside the closet cavity.( The closet is 18" less the thickness of the sidewall insulation.)

You must be able to provide outside air to the rear condenser coil of the AC. Normally a window AC gets air from the top and sides of the rear of the unit to be drawn in and blown thru the condenser coil. The air transfers heat out of the coolant and exhausts it outside. If you don't allow any outside air into the condenser, the unit cannot cool and you eventually burn up the unit. My unit's width gave me the room to get air around the sides and top.

Most importantly, an AC operates as a "closed loop", meaning that inside room air and outside air do not mix. Room air is drawn into the front of the unit, thru the coolant coil, and blown back into the room. Again, outside air is drawn in the top, & sides of the unit, thru the condenser coil and back outside. Two separate closed loop circuits.

I'm being really lengthy on all this for a reason...here's why. Whichever way you install your window unit... mounted on the wheel well and vented, or on sliders so that it hangs outside when it's working, you must KEEP OUTSIDE AIR OUT & INSIDE AIR IN. If you don't, your unit will not operate properly. Outside air humidity will freeze your coolant coils, the unit will be trying to cool the great outdoors, and you will never be cool enough. Also, if you have only inside air feeding both air circuits, it's a zero sum gain, the unit will only be able to cool itself, not you. I mention this because that is what the prior owner of my Scamp did when he put in his AC. It was a mess and he burned up his unit...but that's another story.

The last thing I wish to impart is this, be sure you provide a way to let condensation drain out of the trailer, or you will only be causing your plywood floor to rot. When inside air is cooled, it becomes drier since cool air cannot hold moisture as well as warm. That moisture collects inside the AC. Normally, the AC is designed to throw that moisture on the condenser coil to help cool it, but there's always excess. If you do not drain it. It's going to collect in the bottom of the closet and rot your floor.

I'm sure I have given you much more information you need, but I only wish to pass on the lessons I have learned on my Scamp. Installing a window AC in the closet is a smart way to go...if you install it smartly.

I documented my install in pictures...if you wish you can review them. I hope it helps.

Goodluck,
BobH (ConwayBob)
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Old 06-03-2006, 12:13 AM   #20
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Scamp use to install them in the closet, and if I didn't have one on the roof that's exactly where I would put one.
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Old 06-03-2006, 09:00 AM   #21
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We didn't want to give up any vauable closet space, so we installed our AC right through the back wall at floor level.
I considered doing the same trick to my Trillium but under the table of the front dinette with a protrusion behind the propane tank that I would have to move a little.

I ended up installing the AC in the closet for a better balance as properly explained by Bob H and according to how he installed his own AC. It was the right decision.
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Old 06-03-2006, 11:32 AM   #22
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I considered doing the same trick to my Trillium but under the table of the front dinette with a protrusion behind the propane tank that I would have to move a little.

I ended up installing the AC in the closet for a better balance as properly explained by Bob H and according to how he installed his own AC. It was the right decision.
Thanks Bob, for the great instructions and info, and thanks everyone for all your input!! Thanks to this string, I have a wayyyyy better understanding of what needs to be done when installing the AC. Hubby and I are off to search for an AC today for the trailer. I'll post some pics when we manage to get it installed!
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Old 06-03-2006, 11:34 AM   #23
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One additional suggestion (by the way, this is the same way I did our boat cushion replacements).

Be sure to buy the stainless steel staples. Costs a bit more but you won't end up with rust stains (or the things rusting out).
Oh yeah! Good point. I wouldn't have thought of that. Thanks for the tip!
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Old 06-03-2006, 01:05 PM   #24
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[quote]
How well does that work for you? In a similar arrangement to yours, the owner claimed that the only part that got cool was the "tunnel" under the bed. That person wound up removing the floor mount AC and installing a roof mounted one. >>>

I did that once, and found that when the table was in the bed position, the cold air would just suck into the return. I had to put a horizontal piece of panelling between the two, that slid onto strips on each side of the dinette, to make the cold air go forward, and not get sucked up.
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Old 06-03-2006, 05:26 PM   #25
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I did that once, and found that when the table was in the bed position, the cold air would just suck into the return. I had to put a horizontal piece of panelling between the two, that slid onto strips on each side of the dinette, to make the cold air go forward, and not get sucked up.
Very good point!!!! I never tought about it! You are abolutely right!
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Old 06-03-2006, 11:36 PM   #26
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Frederick,
It works very well unless it's extremely hot in the evening. In that case we put a fan under the edge of the bed to help move the cool air out into the room.
Sandra
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Old 06-04-2006, 12:02 AM   #27
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I need to A/C my 13' Scamp too- I can heat it with a candle but cooling it is a different issue all together. I saw this on Ebay and as much as I hate to spend more money than an $80 WalMart air conditioner, I think I am going to save up for something like this!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1
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Old 06-04-2006, 10:18 AM   #28
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I need to A/C my 13' Scamp too- I can heat it with a candle but cooling it is a different issue all together. I saw this on Ebay and as much as I hate to spend more money than an $80 WalMart air conditioner, I think I am going to save up for something like this!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1
I was in my local Wal-Mart today, buying that "cheapo screenroom" that's mentioned in another post, (going to work out great too!). Anyway, they had a 5010BTU window unit for $87! My only reservation was that it's width was 17", a bit too wide for a closet install if it's mounted fixed to the wheel well, you wouldn't be able to get air around and down the sides of the unit. As for installing it as a slider, it'd be perfect. For it's output you can't beat the price.

BTY, I'm totally blown away with what you have done with your Scamp! Your website really is a jaw-dropper, seeing how far you have brought it along. I thought I had to work a basket case but you win the prize!
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