Air Conditioning... - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-10-2012, 08:10 AM   #15
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Name: PaulOWindsor
Trailer: 2011 Trillium 1500 & 2002 Airstream 34
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Dylan : Those "Deck Plates" are sold at "West Marine" stores & most every boat stuff stores...they're a very common item, although the 6" ones may have to be a special order at some smaller marine stores.

Cheers, P.
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Old 07-10-2012, 09:58 AM   #16
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Name: George
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Being new to FGRV this is my 1st post. After much reading on the subject I decided to install my $99/5K BTU unit under the front bunk. Knowing that 2 things are needed to operate properly, a fresh air intake and a hot air exhaust, I used 2 marine deck ports purchased at the local Bass Pro to serve these purposes. Then using insulation board and metal duct tape I created a chute to funnel the exhaust air outside via the front deck port; "works great". On very hot days maybe use a small fan to help circulate air. Have pictures and will post as soon as I firgure out how?
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Old 07-10-2012, 03:48 PM   #17
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Name: Russ
Trailer: Boler
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I, like many others, decided to go with a small 5K BTU window unit. I wanted to have it permanently mounted and not lose any window openings so I decided to use some closet space.

I know Scamp and some other manufacturers have used a low mount in the past but I was worried about convection working against me and ending up with a sweaty brow and cold feet so I decided to mount at the top of the closet.

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One advantage of the low mount is the ability to create a fresh air intake through the floor (without losing more closet space to a duct coming up from the floor). I decided to do some work to the back of my unit to divert the hot air out the top vent I had added while the cold air would come in via the bottom vent.

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Russ
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Old 07-10-2012, 04:08 PM   #18
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Trailer: 1982 Scamp 13'
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RussL View Post
I know Scamp and some other manufacturers have used a low mount in the past but I was worried about convection working against me and ending up with a sweaty brow and cold feet so I decided to mount at the top of the closet.


I imagine that helps with that whole pesky heat rising thing. Looks good - I imagine the higher AC, the better it will operate.

Steve
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Old 07-10-2012, 11:28 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by PaulOWindsor View Post
Dylan : Those "Deck Plates" are sold at "West Marine" stores & most every boat stuff stores...they're a very common item, although the 6" ones may have to be a special order at some smaller marine stores.

Cheers, P.
Thanks, I'll check around.
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Old 07-10-2012, 11:32 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by RussL View Post
I, like many others, decided to go with a small 5K BTU window unit. I wanted to have it permanently mounted and not lose any window openings so I decided to use some closet space.

I know Scamp and some other manufacturers have used a low mount in the past but I was worried about convection working against me and ending up with a sweaty brow and cold feet so I decided to mount at the top of the closet.

Attachment 48821Attachment 48825

One advantage of the low mount is the ability to create a fresh air intake through the floor (without losing more closet space to a duct coming up from the floor). I decided to do some work to the back of my unit to divert the hot air out the top vent I had added while the cold air would come in via the bottom vent.

Attachment 48823Attachment 48824

Russ
Great reference photos!

How do you feel getting the cool air intake so close to the hot air out is working? I've considered that sort of install.

At the moment I'm considering getting cool air from the rear dinnette seat and putting in a vent like that "deck plate" that I can seal or open depending on AC use. Smaller vent/hatch on the side for just the hot air out. But, I'm still open to considering all configurations. I just don't see a great way to get air from below in the bottom of the closet. Pesky wheel well.
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Old 07-10-2012, 11:32 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by dylanear View Post
Thanks, I'll check around.
Are you looking for boat inspection hatches?

marine inspection plate | eBay
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Old 07-11-2012, 05:25 AM   #22
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Lots of clever installations but where does the water go? Raz
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Old 07-11-2012, 08:00 AM   #23
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Name: PaulOWindsor
Trailer: 2011 Trillium 1500 & 2002 Airstream 34
Ontario
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Hi P : In the case of our portable air conditioner...it has a resevoir (tub) for water inside it & I've actually run it for two full days prior to the float tripping the unit so that it stops.

Anyway, to answer your question...when I decide it's time to expell the water (usually once per day) I turn it off, disconnect the hot air exhaust hose from the back of the unit & wheel it over to the doorway.

I then connect the 3ft plastic hose that came with the unit to the lower of the two water ports & then let the water drain out through the hose that I position under the trailer, away from where we step down.

Once it's drained, off goes the hose, it's wheeled back into place, hot air exhaust pipe is re-connected & air conditioning is rolling again until the next day.

The whole process takes about two minutes form start to finish.

Of course, this solution might not be the best answer for everyone (our trailer is a front dinette model, so everything fits..) but it works so perfectly for us, IMHO solving the air conditioning problem couldn't be easier.

For those that may want to see this in person...the Admiral, the schnauzer & I will have our Trillium at the Bolerama in Long Beach this coming weekend.

Cheers, P.
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Old 07-11-2012, 12:17 PM   #24
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Great reference photos!

How do you feel getting the cool air intake so close to the hot air out is working? I've considered that sort of install.
For the most part I think it works all right but I was worried about that too so I built a little sheet metal deflector that I can hang between the two rows of vents on the outside. With that in place there is good separation of the intake and exhaust and it does seem to work a bit better.

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Lots of clever installations but where does the water go? Raz
I built a shelf in the closet that is pitched heavily to the outside wall. I then fiberglassed over the shelf and up the walls to make it water tight. I drilled holes at the two outside corners and glued in fittings allowing me to attach tubing that goes down and drains out the wheel well.

Russ

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Old 07-11-2012, 03:25 PM   #25
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I put mine where the fridge used to be. I replaced the fridge with a more "solar friendly" chest type fridge fridge, (2.8 amp hr. vs. 5.0 amp hr.).

Here's the fridge- an 85 quart Whynter - that 2.8 AH is on 12 volts.
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Old 07-12-2012, 12:43 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by stevewolverton View Post
Are you looking for boat inspection hatches?

marine inspection plate | eBay
Well, I want a small, easy to open, easy to seal well when shut, vent for cool air intake. I'm thinking putting it on the rear dinette seat area and then a hole that let's the air from that vent get into the lower closet, and thus into the AC unit. A small 6" ish round vent that could just be simply turned to open it seems nice.

Then there is the matter of a vent/hatch, about 10.5x13" inside diameter to let out the hot air from on the side of the trailer. Ideally something louvered, but something that can be opened so a layer of insulation can be installed for the wet/cold weather.
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Old 07-12-2012, 12:49 AM   #27
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For the most part I think it works all right but I was worried about that too so I built a little sheet metal deflector that I can hang between the two rows of vents on the outside. With that in place there is good separation of the intake and exhaust and it does seem to work a bit better.



I built a shelf in the closet that is pitched heavily to the outside wall. I then fiberglassed over the shelf and up the walls to make it water tight. I drilled holes at the two outside corners and glued in fittings allowing me to attach tubing that goes down and drains out the wheel well.

Russ

Attachment 48870Attachment 48871

Nice. I may end up with a fiberglassed shelf. But I have a very similar AC unit and from opening it up and looking, I think you could attach a drain hose directly to the the overflow hole. It's complected by the AC design, which is made to pool up some of the condensation and sling it onto the condenser for added cooling. Only when it gets too deep in that area does it overflow out the "drain" hole.

I started a thread on "hacking" the small 5000BTU Frigidaire.
Frigidaire FRA054XT7, condensation?
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Old 07-12-2012, 11:28 AM   #28
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Name: Dave and Shelly
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nice job

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Originally Posted by PaulOWindsor View Post
Here are the pictures of my "after market" solution to the problem of getting air conditioning into our Trillium...

Although we can't leave the portable air conditioner in the Trillium when we travel, this works perfectly & it can be almost totally hidden when not in use by simply replacing the screw in caps into the inside & outside ports.

P.
Very nice job on installing that.
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