ASK THE EXPERTS..AC location preference. - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 11-26-2010, 09:27 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Carol H View Post
Where you plan on camping and how often you are going to actually need ac would be a big part of my decision process and the height of where I store the trailer would also be a big part of the decision. I have a window unit that I have only used once since adding a fantastic fan - but I mainly camp on the coast. Adding more height to my trailer would impact me seriously in two ways. I would not be able to store the trailer in the carport and the cost of going on our local ferry system which I use often would jump greatly.
Hi Carol,

Here in north/central Georgia, we can sometimes use AC and Heat in the same 24 hour period. We like to be comfy when "Roughing" it!

Kip
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Old 11-26-2010, 09:50 AM   #16
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We did something controversial when we had our 13' Burro. We cut a hole in the fiberglass just above the back seat, so that the cheap window air conditioner from Walmart extended out the back. We put up a shelf connected to the trailer and braced it with steel mounts to the bumper. The air conditioner sat on the shelf and the license plate had a holder on the mounts.
Then we cut up a Rubbermaid ice chest that fit around the air conditioner and attached it by bungie cords around the air conditioner, so that as we drove, the air conditioner looked like a normal ice chest. Then when we parked, we removed that cover for the air conditioner to work. Someone even thought that the drink chest was real and asked for a beer.

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Old 11-26-2010, 10:00 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by CindyL View Post
We did something controversial when we had our 13' Burro. We cut a hole in the fiberglass just above the back seat, so that the cheap window air conditioner from Walmart extended out the back. We put up a shelf connected to the trailer and braced it with steel mounts to the bumper. The air conditioner sat on the shelf and the license plate had a holder on the mounts.
Then we cut up a Rubbermaid ice chest that fit around the air conditioner and attached it by bungie cords around the air conditioner, so that as we drove, the air conditioner looked like a normal ice chest. Then when we parked, we removed that cover for the air conditioner to work. Someone even thought that the drink chest was real and asked for a beer.

CindyL
Cindy,

Off subject, but just looked at your trailer profile. Your U-Haul is beautiful.

Kip
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Old 11-26-2010, 10:10 AM   #18
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Kip I suspect there is no black and white answer to your question. ;-) I think you will find that it really comes down to where you camp and the type of trailer you purchase. As I said the only thing that would stop me from buying a trailer with a roof mount ac (assuming the trailer was originally built to hold one) would be the height issue. But if I camped in areas that an ac was a must have most of the time, I know I would be looking for a roof mount and look for a different storage option for the trailer. That way I would not be giving up closet space for the ac. If I camped in areas where ac was not needed very much then I would be swayed to a window mount (which I have) so as not to give up closet space for the few times the ac was actually needed. Then again if you purchase a trailer with lots of closet space giving up a little to the ac may not be an issue.
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Old 11-26-2010, 10:18 AM   #19
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Cool

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Originally Posted by Kip in Ga. View Post
Hi Carol,

Here in north/central Georgia, we can sometimes use AC and Heat in the same 24 hour period. We like to be comfy when "Roughing" it!

Kip
Hehe -here we like to brag about sking in the morning and golfing in the afternoon! In the past 48 hours we have actually had a 30 degree weather change - happly to the positive side but not as positive as yours!
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Old 11-26-2010, 11:39 AM   #20
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Probably making a mountain out of a mole hill.

Just want to get it as right as possible when we make the purchase.
That is why all ya'lls input is so valuable and appreciated.

Thanks,
Kip
Kip,
One other thing to consider is cooling capacity. These fiberglass trailers are very small. The smallest window units typically available are 5000 btu and are made to cool a room several times larger than the interior of a fiberglass trailer. I don't know a lot about roof units, but I think that the smallest roof units are considerably larger in cooling capacity than the small window units because most campers are much bigger than fiberglass eggs.
If you read anything about sizing AC units to an application, they always warn not to get to much cooling capacity because the AC will cycle to fast and not do a good job of removing the moisture from the air.
Another consideration is if it will ever be run using a generator, the roof units may require a bigger generator.

Andy
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Old 11-26-2010, 11:48 AM   #21
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Thank you for the compliment. Since that picture, we added a spare tire holder and painted the frame royal blue to match the other blue.

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Old 11-26-2010, 08:04 PM   #22
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The smallest window units typically available are 5000 btu and are made to cool a room several times larger than the interior of a fiberglass trailer. I don't know a lot about roof units, but I think that the smallest roof units are considerably larger in cooling capacity than the small window units because most campers are much bigger than fiberglass eggs.
If you read anything about sizing AC units to an application, they always warn not to get to much cooling capacity because the AC will cycle to fast and not do a good job of removing the moisture from the air.
A lot of that concern depends on what kind of heat conditions you encounter. My 5000 Btu unit does well in the 80-95 degree range, but we have repeatedly found ourselves camping in Palm Springs, CA in July when the outside temperatures easily reach 115 degrees with 7% humidity (and there is no shade). This is when I wish I had a 13,000 Btu roof unit AND a swamp cooler...
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Old 11-27-2010, 05:45 AM   #23
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Fred,

115 degrees seems pretty warm, but the 7% humidity seems pretty nice.
Can't imagine what the "Feels Like" conditions are. You might have to graduate to a 6K AC unit!

Most every summer we have periods when the temp is in the mid to high 90s with humidity at/or above 50%, and little to any breeze at all. Stepping outside will induce instant sweating, and hard to breath.

Other than cutting grass with a riding mower (making our own breeze), any work to be done outside requires us old folks to start at daylight and work toward the shade, when the sun appears, and give it up around 10:00 AM or so. Can't imagine how the prople doing roofing, resurfacing roads, taking down trees, and so forth, deal with it. God bless them!

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Old 11-27-2010, 05:51 AM   #24
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Thank you for the compliment. Since that picture, we added a spare tire holder and painted the frame royal blue to match the other blue.

Cindy
Cindy,
The inside walls appear to be fiberglass. Are those U-Haul EGGS double walled with insulation between them?

Somebody in your group sure has a good eye for colors, inside and out!

Kip
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Old 11-27-2010, 06:09 AM   #25
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Yes, the UHauls are double-hulled. We really like the fiberglass inside walls. We can just wipe them down when dirty.
As for insulation, I do not really know. I do know that we camp in South Dakota in March, we are plenty warm with what we have to heat it. Our air conditioner is both a cooling one and a heating one. Then we use one of those little electric heaters you can pick up at a a Walmart.

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Old 11-27-2010, 07:23 AM   #26
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From a different perspective, consider tow handling and how a heavy appliance would effect things. A location lowest & closest to the axle has the least effect on handling.
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Old 11-27-2010, 07:40 PM   #27
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Kip,
One other thing to consider is cooling capacity. These fiberglass trailers are very small. The smallest window units typically available are 5000 btu and are made to cool a room several times larger than the interior of a fiberglass trailer. I don't know a lot about roof units, but I think that the smallest roof units are considerably larger in cooling capacity than the small window units because most campers are much bigger than fiberglass eggs.
If you read anything about sizing AC units to an application, they always warn not to get to much cooling capacity because the AC will cycle to fast and not do a good job of removing the moisture from the air.
Another consideration is if it will ever be run using a generator, the roof units may require a bigger generator.

Andy
couldn't you crack a window if your AC is too powerful?

Kip, no insulation in the U-hauls unless you add it yourself. There us some access in some spots through bins and cabinets.
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Old 11-27-2010, 09:44 PM   #28
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couldn't you crack a window if your AC is too powerful?
Yes, you could open a window with a larger than needed AC to reduce the temperature. Depending on the climate that would work to control temperature but maybe not humidity. It seems that using the right size AC is a better solution. A 5000 btu window unit may be a little larger than needed for efficient moisture reduction but a 9000 or 13000 btu roof mount would be much further from optimal.

I am not an expert, so feel free to correct me if I say something incorrectly. When the temperature of the air is lowered with all other things being equal, the % humidity increases. If I am interpreting the charts that I Googled correctly, using the example of 115 F at 7% humidity, if the air temperature is lowered to 70 F without removing any water, the humidity increases to 28%. That is still low humidity.

If the temperature outside is 95 F and 55% humidity, the humidity will reach 100% when the temperature is lowered to 76F. This shows that having an AC unit that cycles long enough to effectively remove water is important in a humid climate but may not be as important in a dry climate.

A larger AC unit still costs more to buy and to run, weighs more and would require a larger generator to run without a hookup. It is the rooftop air conditioner power requirement that causes some people to get a 3000w vs a 2000w generator resulting in even more weight and expense.

Andy
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