Atwood LP Gas Water Heater - Drain Plug - Fiberglass RV



Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 04-07-2019, 03:33 PM   #1
Senior Member
 
Name: Peg
Trailer: 2016 -13' Scamp
Massachusetts
Posts: 161
Atwood LP Gas Water Heater - Drain Plug

Two questions about the 6 gallon gas/electric Atwood water heater drain plugs:


Why are they plastic and is there a metal replacement option? If not, why not? (The plastic plug threads are easy to cross-thread and therefore need 1-2 year seasonal replacement.)


Should I be using Teflon tape when reinstalling the plastic plugs?



Replacing the drain plug each spring after winterization is the chore I most love to hate. Atwood's design is the worst!
__________________

herons is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2019, 03:47 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
John in Santa Cruz's Avatar
 
Name: John
Trailer: Escape 21
CA
Posts: 1,501
only drain I've seen on my RV water heaters is the anode rode, which is magnesium or something on an alloy plug/screw.
__________________

John in Santa Cruz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2019, 05:04 PM   #3
Senior Member
 
Name: bill
Trailer: 2013 Escape 19; 1977 Trillium 1300
The Mountains of North Carolina
Posts: 1,975
Registry
Atwood water tank is typically aluminum so no anode required. Yes, I use teflon tape on plastic fittings. Have to worry about corrosion if you use brass or some other metal. Check carefully before going down that route.
thrifty bill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2019, 11:23 AM   #4
Senior Member
 
Name: Jann
Trailer: Casita
Colorado
Posts: 592
Quote:
Originally Posted by herons View Post
Two questions about the 6 gallon gas/electric Atwood water heater drain plugs:


Why are they plastic and is there a metal replacement option? If not, why not? (The plastic plug threads are easy to cross-thread and therefore need 1-2 year seasonal replacement.)


Should I be using Teflon tape when reinstalling the plastic plugs?



Replacing the drain plug each spring after winterization is the chore I most love to hate. Atwood's design is the worst!
We put a brass fitting with a cock valve in it to drain the hot water heater. We put Teflon tape on it so it wouldn't corrode. Make sure all threads are covered so the brass doesn't touch the tank threads. That is where you get the corrosion from. We got tired of leaking plastic drain plugs that cross threaded also. When we use the tank we drain it after every trip with the cock valve and at the end of the season we take out the entire setup and wash the tank out with a special nozzle designed for that. There is always some crude in the tank when we wash it out. Then put the setup back in and we're good for the spring. Or you can leave the setup out and wash tank in the spring to make sure there is no antifreeze in it if you winterize which we must do. We bypass the tank when winterizing but like to make sure nothing got into the tank anyway.
Jann Todd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2019, 01:41 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
Name: Michael
Trailer: Trail Cruiser
Alberta
Posts: 501
The water heater usually comes with a plastic drain plug, I assume because they are cheap and they don't corrode and seize.

They shouldn't cross thread if carefully put in. They should go in easily if properly threaded into the port in the water tank. If not, they are cross threaded or are damaged due to previous cross threading.

Sometimes the plastic threads strip, usually because they are put in too tightly.

Teflon tape helps them to seal better and prevent leaks. After installing the teflon tape (counterclockwise) on the plug, screw it in hand tight. Fill the tank and check for leaks. If you have a leak, tighten the plug gently, about a quarter turn and see if the leak stops. After the leak stops, tighten another quarter turn.
You can replace the plastic plug with a metal anode. Some of these anodes have a built in drain cock which can be opened to drain the water tank without removing them.
Anodes should also be installed with teflon tape for a better seal and to facilitate removal.
Mike_L is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2019, 03:30 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
Name: Jann
Trailer: Casita
Colorado
Posts: 592
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike_L View Post
The water heater usually comes with a plastic drain plug, I assume because they are cheap and they don't corrode and seize.

They shouldn't cross thread if carefully put in. They should go in easily if properly threaded into the port in the water tank. If not, they are cross threaded or are damaged due to previous cross threading.

Sometimes the plastic threads strip, usually because they are put in too tightly.

Teflon tape helps them to seal better and prevent leaks. After installing the teflon tape (counterclockwise) on the plug, screw it in hand tight. Fill the tank and check for leaks. If you have a leak, tighten the plug gently, about a quarter turn and see if the leak stops. After the leak stops, tighten another quarter turn.
You can replace the plastic plug with a metal anode. Some of these anodes have a built in drain cock which can be opened to drain the water tank without removing them.
Anodes should also be installed with teflon tape for a better seal and to facilitate removal.
We have never seen an anode rod with a drain cock in 38 years. The anode rod takes up the entire opening to the tank drain plug spot. If you know of one please let us know where to buy it.
Jann Todd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2019, 10:19 AM   #7
Senior Member
 
Name: Michael
Trailer: Trail Cruiser
Alberta
Posts: 501
Hi Jann,
These anodes are available at most RV dealerships for about $10. They are about 6 - 8 inches long and fit into the hole where the plastic plug was originally installed. The one I purchased is perforated around the base just past the threaded part that screws into the tank. The end that protrudes from the tank has a stopcock, similar to those used in the base of a radiator. The stopcock can be opened to drain the tank. I'd post a picture if my trailer wasn't in storage.
Mike_L is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2019, 05:35 PM   #8
Senior Member
 
Name: bill
Trailer: 2013 Escape 19; 1977 Trillium 1300
The Mountains of North Carolina
Posts: 1,975
Registry
No anode for an Atwood WH
__________________
Check my Trillium Project Page: https://www.facebook.com/Bills-1977-...dmin_todo_tour
thrifty bill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2019, 06:37 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
ZachO's Avatar
 
Name: Zach
Trailer: 91 Bigfoot 17
Montana
Posts: 1,614
Registry
That's what I heard the last time I paid attention to a water heater thread. I realized my tank didn't have an anode, that I could buy one for it, but that it was not necessary.

I've been good with the plastic plug. I'm careful not to cross-thread (which is always the rule for anything with threads), and use teflon tape. Mine doesn't leak. My camper is a 91 and so far as I can tell everything is original, though I think it wasn't used much. Either way, the plastic plug looked old when I bought the camper, and I've used my trailer for three seasons. So far the plug is holding up!
ZachO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-14-2019, 05:41 PM   #10
Senior Member
 
Name: Peg
Trailer: 2016 -13' Scamp
Massachusetts
Posts: 161
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike_L View Post
The water heater usually comes with a plastic drain plug, I assume because they are cheap and they don't corrode and seize.

They shouldn't cross thread if carefully put in. They should go in easily if properly threaded into the port in the water tank. If not, they are cross threaded or are damaged due to previous cross threading.

Sometimes the plastic threads strip, usually because they are put in too tightly.

Teflon tape helps them to seal better and prevent leaks. After installing the teflon tape (counterclockwise) on the plug, screw it in hand tight. Fill the tank and check for leaks. If you have a leak, tighten the plug gently, about a quarter turn and see if the leak stops. After the leak stops, tighten another quarter turn.
You can replace the plastic plug with a metal anode. Some of these anodes have a built in drain cock which can be opened to drain the water tank without removing them.
Anodes should also be installed with teflon tape for a better seal and to facilitate removal.

Thanks, Mike. Good advice.
herons is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2019, 04:02 AM   #11
Senior Member
 
Doug Arthurs's Avatar
 
Trailer: Bigfoot
Posts: 156
Registry
I replaced mine with a drain valve as well. I drain it after each trip.
Doug Arthurs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2019, 06:35 AM   #12
Senior Member
 
Name: Peg
Trailer: 2016 -13' Scamp
Massachusetts
Posts: 161
I don't think there is sufficient space in the Atwood WH for a drain valve. It would be a good solution, though.
herons is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2019, 07:35 AM   #13
Senior Member
 
Joe MacDonald's Avatar
 
Trailer: Trillium
Ontario
Posts: 815
I just installed a new 6 gallon atwood tank, i bushed the drain to 1/2 inch and put in a 90 degree tap, works like a charm, I'll post a pic when I can get one
Joe
Joe MacDonald is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2019, 08:08 PM   #14
Senior Member
 
Name: Jann
Trailer: Casita
Colorado
Posts: 592
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike_L View Post
Hi Jann,
These anodes are available at most RV dealerships for about $10. They are about 6 - 8 inches long and fit into the hole where the plastic plug was originally installed. The one I purchased is perforated around the base just past the threaded part that screws into the tank. The end that protrudes from the tank has a stopcock, similar to those used in the base of a radiator. The stopcock can be opened to drain the tank. I'd post a picture if my trailer wasn't in storage.
Googled them and found them. Thank you. This will be a purchase we make for the Casita. We hate taking the anode out all the time. It's a pain to get it in straight in the tight quarters. We put a drain plug in our motorhome with a drain cock since it doesn't need an anode rod.
__________________

Jann Todd is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
atwood gas water heater Snowberry Modifications, Alterations and Updates 19 04-11-2016 02:40 PM
7 way plug to 4 way plug back to 7 way plug immrbill Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 3 08-10-2015 11:08 AM
Atwood drain plug leak - Help! spartacus Plumbing | Systems and Fixtures 10 06-29-2014 07:46 PM
2004 Trillium Outback Drain Plug for Water Tank? BarbinBC Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 5 09-08-2013 06:41 PM
Just gas or gas/electric water heater? Feedback wanted. Bryan L. Care and Feeding of Molded Fiberglass Trailers 15 09-15-2010 09:11 AM

» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.
» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:58 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions Inc.