Battery - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-25-2007, 10:21 AM   #15
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is what you think is a card about the size of a large postage stamp and have two prongs on it?

I am guessing you are talking about an inline fuse.
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Old 06-25-2007, 10:52 AM   #16
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Green ATO fuses are 30 amps.

Turned around, OE = 30, maybe?

-edited 'cause I can't spell!
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Old 06-25-2007, 12:44 PM   #17
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yes. They typically "stamp" in squarish letters.
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Old 06-25-2007, 06:14 PM   #18
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Since a picture is worth a thousand words (or at least is less frustrating), here is a 30 amp ATO fuse and such a fuse in an inline holder:

Click image for larger version

Name:	fuse30a.jpg
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ID:	8433


In this case, the text isn't very square, but brands will presumably vary.
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Old 06-27-2007, 10:07 AM   #19
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Since a picture is worth a thousand words (or at least is less frustrating), here is a 30 amp ATO fuse and such a fuse in an inline holder:

Attachment 8433


In this case, the text isn't very square, but brands will presumably vary.

VOILA Yes, that is it. Funny, I was reading it upside down. So, what is this and what does it do? If the previous owner said he installed a "converter" what does that mean and where is it?
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Old 06-27-2007, 10:56 AM   #20
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VOILA Yes, that is it. Funny, I was reading it upside down. So, what is this and what does it do? If the previous owner said he installed a "converter" what does that mean and where is it?
Make sure you don't misplace the 710 cap on your engine or else you'll have lots of 710 sprayed all over your engine bay; the end result of which will be low 710 pressure.

:-) :-)
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Old 06-27-2007, 11:19 AM   #21
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So, what is this and what does it do? If the previous owner said he installed a "converter" what does that mean and where is it?

Well, it is a 30 amp fuse and its purpose is to limit the amount of current flowing in a circuit.



Actually, I'm not sure whay it's purpose is. I'll know better after I pick up my Casita this weekend and if someone hasn't chimed in maybe I can help.

On mine, the converter is installed in the forward edge of the street-side rear bench, right next to the water heater. It takes 120V AC voltage from the shore power cord and converts it to 12V DC for the appliances in the camper. They usually also include a battery charging function for your coach battery, as well.
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Old 06-27-2007, 11:31 AM   #22
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Well, it is a 30 amp fuse and its purpose is to limit the amount of current flowing in a circuit.



Actually, I'm not sure whay it's purpose is. I'll know better after I pick up my Casita this weekend and if someone hasn't chimed in maybe I can help.

On mine, the converter is installed in the forward edge of the street-side rear bench, right next to the water heater. It takes 120V AC voltage from the shore power cord and converts it to 12V DC for the appliances in the camper. They usually also include a battery charging function for your coach battery, as well.
I'll look for it, but I am not sure what I'll be looking for. Anyway, how long typically do you need to be plugged in to fully charge the battery? I ask all these questions because we'll be parked a lot of places that won't have elec.
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Old 06-27-2007, 01:55 PM   #23
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I'll look for it, but I am not sure what I'll be looking for. Anyway, how long typically do you need to be plugged in to fully charge the battery? I ask all these questions because we'll be parked a lot of places that won't have elec.
the on board charger is a poor excuse for a battery charger and once the battery has been run down to where is is flat out dead the on board system will not bring it back to 100%. is best to disconnect the battery cables and hook it up to a real charger once in a while. my 06 scamp battery had to be replaced this spring and it was only 1 year old. it was recomended to me to take it out in nov or dec and have a good charge put into it and to do it again in about feb. i do leave it plugged in all the time parked adjacent to my garage.
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Old 06-27-2007, 07:33 PM   #24
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Go to an auto parts store and purchase what is called a "smart charger" When the battery is run down a smart charger will provide about 13-14 amps to bring the battery back up quickly, as the battery recovers the charger will lower to about 8-10 amps. As the battery reaches 95 to 100 % the "smart" charger will reduce it's output to about 1-2 amps. At this output the water in the battery should not boil away.

Converters are designed to convert the 110 input to a 12v output so your lights and water pump will work. If your Scamp converter has a charging wire it will probally only charge your battery at about 8-10 amps...all the time...even after it has boiled out all the water and left you with a really expensive paper weight. IMNSHO....Get a "smart" charger.


Paul
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Old 06-28-2007, 11:34 AM   #25
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Go to an auto parts store and purchase what is called a "smart charger" When the battery is run down a smart charger will provide about 13-14 amps to bring the battery back up quickly, as the battery recovers the charger will lower to about 8-10 amps. As the battery reaches 95 to 100 % the "smart" charger will reduce it's output to about 1-2 amps. At this output the water in the battery should not boil away.

Converters are designed to convert the 110 input to a 12v output so your lights and water pump will work. If your Scamp converter has a charging wire it will probally only charge your battery at about 8-10 amps...all the time...even after it has boiled out all the water and left you with a really expensive paper weight. IMNSHO....Get a "smart" charger.
Paul
how do you disconnect the built in charger that is housed with the converter? i suspect that is the exact situation i had with the year old battery going bad.
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Old 06-29-2007, 08:57 AM   #26
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Go to an auto parts store and purchase what is called a "smart charger" When the battery is run down a smart charger will provide about 13-14 amps to bring the battery back up quickly, as the battery recovers the charger will lower to about 8-10 amps. As the battery reaches 95 to 100 % the "smart" charger will reduce it's output to about 1-2 amps. At this output the water in the battery should not boil away.

Converters are designed to convert the 110 input to a 12v output so your lights and water pump will work. If your Scamp converter has a charging wire it will probally only charge your battery at about 8-10 amps...all the time...even after it has boiled out all the water and left you with a really expensive paper weight. IMNSHO....Get a "smart" charger.
Paul

Thanks for the tip - we'll get one. I think we figured out the main problem - battery was all but dead and leaking! Our local mechanic advised us to replace it with a new marine battery.
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Old 06-29-2007, 04:36 PM   #27
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Not just a marine battery (which refers to the kind of terminals and the internal plate construction but a marine DEEP CYCLE (aka Trolling battery), which is designed for relatively slow discharge and many recharge cycles. Don't get a starting battery or a dual-purpose start/deepcycle battery. WallyMart or autoparts stores are good places for batteries and chargers.

Unless you use almost NO 12VDC and camp with converter hooked to 120VAC for long periods, you probably won't damage the battery. The usual scenario for boiling the battery with the converter is during long-term storage (like over the winter) with the 120VAC connected to the trailer.

To disconnect the converter(which is primarily a 120VAC to 12VDC power supply, with battery charging thrown in as an afterthought except in models with Smart Charging -- Usually extra $$) without messing up the connection between the battery and the 12VDC fuse panel usually located inside the converter, I would consult with the maker of YOUR converter. Call them with Model and Serial Number. It may be as simple as pulling a fuse or you may have to undo an internal connection.
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Old 07-09-2007, 09:48 AM   #28
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You mentioned the Smart Charger, is that then replacing the trickle charger that is in the converter? do you disconnect the charger n the converter?
I was camped for 6 days last week with an 30 amp service plugged in. Noticed yesterday that my exhaust fan was getting slower as if meybe my new battery was getting run down. I am thinking my on board charger may not be working at all. Am I correct in thinking that when I am plugged in the converter should be able to keep up with whatever usage we have on the 12 volt circuits? the battery charge should remain at 100% while plugged in should it not?
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