Battery - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV

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Old 11-09-2012, 05:10 PM   #15
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Name: Steve
Trailer: 2003 Casita 16' SD
Posts: 1,728
Originally Posted by Ed Harris View Post

You wouldn't know the Edge if it had a huge sign on it!

Same Here!
This is the only sign I've seen....over my shoulder.
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Old 11-09-2012, 05:24 PM   #16
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Name: Ed
Trailer: 1982 Fiber Stream and 2002 Casita Freedom Deluxe,The driveway is a Dark & Lonely Place now!
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Originally Posted by Steve L. View Post
This is the only sign I've seen....over my shoulder.
Are there even Lenses in those silly glasses?

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Old 11-09-2012, 10:31 PM   #17
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Name: john
Trailer: 1974 Trillium 13 ft
British Columbia
Posts: 18
Wow you guys "Rock"...thanks all for the advice. We'll be doing lots 'o boondocking so 2 X 6 is best> Let you folks know when I run out of power somewhere in the woods or a parking lot.
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Old 01-12-2013, 10:01 PM   #18
Name: Linda
Trailer: compact jr
New York
Posts: 58
Anybody have feedback on this battery? EverStart 27DC-6 Marine Battery
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Old 01-13-2013, 10:10 AM   #19
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Name: Rob
Trailer: Casita
Posts: 81
I am a little late to this show, but thought I would share some info I put together in the past that may be of use to others.

I had been pondering the details of migrating to two 6 volt batteries to increase my battery capacity for about two years.

Increased battery capacity is an enabler for extending boondocking adventures for longer periods without running my generator. My solar panels recharge my current battery so fast I wanted a larger battery bank to support my ever growing energy demands.

The previous post about first calculating your needs is right on. You will have no idea what battery capacity you need unless you so so. You will find that users out there vary from minimalists (great fit for small fiberglass trailers), to those with more extreme energy needs (guility as charged). I would not even do this analysis without first changing out my lights with LED lights and spending some time in your trailer boondocking, understanding your energy usage in the field.

A simplistic example follows:

In this example I would want to ensure I used a battery that had something like 130 amp hour capacity so that it would still have approximately 50% capacity when the 66 amps discharge.

A standard Group 27 battery in a Casita is not a true deep cycle battery. It is a hybrid designed for cranking and deep cycle use. It utilizes thinner lead plates and contains less battery fluid than a true deep cycle battery. This battery is not intended to be discharged more than 50% on repeated basis or its life will be shortened.

What do I hope to gain in capacity with this modification?

I used the specification for capacity minutes at 25 amps for comparisons. I also wanted to include in the analysis the element of the recommended discharge capacity for a more realistic real world comparison.

Migration to twin 6 volt batteries should give me more than twice the capacity minutes at 25 amps than a standard group 27 Casita battery.

Lithium ion batteries were considered and look promising for the future but I chose not to be an early adopter of an emerging technology and the cost and risk that sometime go with it. The cause of a recent fire in a Boeing 787 APU with lithium batteries is currently being studied.

The Trojan T-105 is a 6 volt battery and is a true deep cycle battery with heavier lead plates and it contains more battery fluid per volume than the Casita group 27 battery. The Trojan T-105 is considered the best on the market for golf carts because it has a cycle life--how many times you can charge and discharge the battery--of 750, and it weighs 62 pounds.The T-105 is readily available in an decent sized town.

Gallery of conversion to twin 6 volt batteries:
120606 - Casita Modification to Twin 6 Volt Batteries - Casita Adventures Photography by Rob Rupp

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Old 01-14-2013, 04:22 AM   #20
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Trailer: Trillium 2010
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Very thorough. Not much different than finding where your money goes. Makes you think twice about that cup of coffee on the way to work.

The lighting usage certainly stands out. A good argument for LEDs for sure. This is a good excersize for all, especially those contemplating the use of household appliances. Then again, folks may not want to know the true cost of nuking that burrito in the wild. Thanks for sharing, Raz
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Old 01-14-2013, 02:33 PM   #21
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Name: Norm and Ginny
Trailer: Scamp 16
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Older Power Perspective.

Our Scamp 16 is old, a 1991. I'm amazed how little 12 volts we actually use these days, particularly since replacing our lights with LEDs. Last night as we returned to our trailer in the dark we noticed the other campsites around us, all their lighting looked yellow, while our little Scamp was aglow in white. I know that some consider the white light harsh but my aging eyes like the higher contrast.

Many of the older Rvs used water heaters and fridges that drew no 12 volt power to run on Propane. Important because fridges run 24 hours a day and water heaters may run that long as well.Ours is that way as far as I can tell.

My Laptop is a small Netbook that runs for about 7-8 hours on a charge. As well the new smart phones have dramatically cut the computer usage. For example, most of FRV reading is now done on the phone as well as news, sports and emails.

Propane Fridge 0 draws no 12 volts
Propane Water Heater 0 draws no 12 volts
Propane Alarm 0 not present
3 RV LED lights 0.6 amps at 4 hours 2.4 amp hours
TV/Sat Dish 4 amps at 4 hours 16 amp hours
LapTop Computer 2 amps for 1 hour 2 amp hours

Like Baron 100, we have also considered moving to more battery capacity but have not done it finding that reducing power consumption is also possible.
Norm and Ginny

2014 Honda Odyssey
1991 Scamp 16
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Old 01-14-2013, 05:15 PM   #22
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Name: Brian
Trailer: 2015 Scamp 13 Front Washroom, Van Camper
New Brunswick
Posts: 372
I would be curious about the water pump.. only on for short period but using a surprising amount of power
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Old 01-14-2013, 05:43 PM   #23
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Name: Norm and Ginny
Trailer: Scamp 16
Posts: 7,325
Water Pump Current

Water pumps vary in current draw, from about 2-7 amps, depending on water flow rate and design. The power concern is amps multiplied by time used.

The magic of the water pump is that the time the pump is on is usually low.
Recognize that most pumps can empty your water tank in less than 10 minutes so if you're boondocking you won't have the pump on for long.

Though a water pump can draw a lot of current, a water pump is rarely on for more than a minute and certainly not many minutes per hour.

The water pump is really secondary compared to something like traditional RV lights.

A single RV bulb typically draws 2 amps. One hour of a bulb being on is equivalent to having your water pump on for 20 minutes. A water pump on for 20 minutes can easily empty the Scamp water tank; actually it can empty it 3 times in 20 minutes.

It's things that are on for long periods that draw a lot of power from the battery. Something that draws as little as a 1/10th of an amp continuously, and there can be many in an RV, are more serious than the water pump.
Norm and Ginny

2014 Honda Odyssey
1991 Scamp 16
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Old 01-14-2013, 09:26 PM   #24
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Name: Gerald
Trailer: In the market
Posts: 4
Originally Posted by John M View Post
Hi folks, can someone led bulb help me out with batteries. Is it best to go with 2 6 volt deep cycle batteries or 1 12 volt deep cycle for my Trillium.
if you have still not got battery just get to ebay site. They are plenty of options at very affordable rates

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