battery ah? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-10-2016, 06:35 PM   #15
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I'm pretty happy with this one. 155 amp hours, 12 volt

https://www.amazon.com/Vmaxtanks-VMA...s=vmax+battery
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Old 08-10-2016, 07:36 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by FlaGman View Post
I'm pretty happy with this one. 155 amp hours, 12 volt

https://www.amazon.com/Vmaxtanks-VMA...s=vmax+battery
Off hand, that looks like a fine AGM battery.

Just remember that AGM is different than wet cell and they should be charged differently. No doubt, the OP's rig is set up for wet cell battery.
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Old 08-11-2016, 09:19 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by gordon2 View Post
Off hand, that looks like a fine AGM battery.

Just remember that AGM is different than wet cell and they should be charged differently. No doubt, the OP's rig is set up for wet cell battery.
Good grief.
What is the difference between charging setup for wet cell and AGM?
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Old 08-11-2016, 11:39 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by FlaGman View Post
I'm pretty happy with this one. 155 amp hours, 12 volt

https://www.amazon.com/Vmaxtanks-VMA...s=vmax+battery
Wowser! That's bigger than a group 33 battery! No wonder it has so many amp hours.
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Old 08-11-2016, 11:57 AM   #19
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Good grief.
What is the difference between charging setup for wet cell and AGM?
From: Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) Battery Information - Battery University

As with all gelled and sealed units, AGM batteries are sensitive to overcharging. A charge to 2.40V/cell (and higher) is fine; however, the float charge should be reduced to between 2.25 and 2.30V/cell (summer temperatures may require lower voltages). Automotive charging systems for flooded lead acid often have a fixed float voltage setting of 14.40V (2.40V/cell); a direct replacement with a sealed unit could overcharge the battery on a long drive.
The comment about automotive charging systems can apply to RV ones also.
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Old 08-11-2016, 12:03 PM   #20
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I was struck by the following entry in Wikipedia, particularly the third bullet point. The key being "properly maintained wet-cell". AGM are less fussy to maintain. But then, normally it's not all that hard to maintain a wet-cell.

AGM & Gel VRLA batteries:
  • Have shorter recharge time than flooded lead-acid.[15]
  • Cannot tolerate overcharging: overcharging leads to premature failure.[15]
  • Have shorter useful life, compared to properly maintained wet-cell battery.[15]
  • Discharge significantly less hydrogen gas.[15]
  • AGM batteries are by nature, safer for the environment, and safer to use.
  • Can be used or positioned in any orientation
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Old 08-11-2016, 06:01 PM   #21
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DEEP CYCLE marine batteries are the only way to go - be aware of the amp hour ratings and how they are figured - some rate at a 1amp load others as much as 5amp load. The WallyWorld ones use 1amp load if I recall correctly. That being said I have found the Trojan to be a superior battery but at a superior price and hard to find locally. The Interstate battery appears to be a good compromise - I got one at the local Gander Mountain on sale a couple years ago for less than $100 - I believe group 27 for the 17' Casita
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Old 08-11-2016, 07:07 PM   #22
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Thanks all!

Yes, I did "cite" incorrectly AH figures.

Yes freezing insulin essentially "Kills it"
When on the road for many months it is important that my insulin lasts.

One does not need to toss it after 28-30 days as many advocate, if keep refrigerated. So both my long acting and rapid acting vials will last 3 months if cared for. Short term a vial can be "cool" and I have used a small evaporative cooling pouch when I was doing field work in the jungels of Belize for weeks at a time.

I had to bring a years supply with me every year when we had our 30 day home leave to buy peanut butter (now off my menu as a diabetic), socks and have our annual medical tune ups.

I did do more reading last night and have a better understanding of "Marine" vs true deep cycle batteries.

Hi Byron, I do recall set up in Death Valley from a few winters back, but failed to remember the AH of your battery. Yes, the Honda is only used as a Shore Power supply.

The challenge will be to find a place to purchase one within a week or so.
There are many boat shops here in quasi-rural Michigan. Wallyworld lists a number of what appear to be deep cycle batteries but not for store pick up.

I imagine shipping on a 45-60 lb battery will be a fair amount.

Cheers all.
One of the problems with many RV refrigerators is temperature regulation. My Dometic RM2510 will often go below freezing on a cool night, then swing into the 40's on a hot day. A good way to help average temperature swings is to keep your insulin or other refrigerated meds is a styrofoam ice chest in the refrigerator. You can find them is all sizes since they are used to ship products by mail. I use a large one to keep my non refrigerated meds from extremes in the trailer, but a smaller one would probably help inside the fridge....
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Old 08-11-2016, 07:11 PM   #23
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This new Trojan battery looks interesting. Weighs a ton and is rather large.
J200-RE | Trojan Battery Company
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Old 08-12-2016, 10:29 AM   #24
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Found an acceptable battery replacement

Took a bit of phone tag and Internet searching, but I found a realtively low cost replacement battery for our Scamp.

Interstate 24M SRM24 $127.87 including Mi. sales tax. It will be ready for pick up Wed. AM about 20 minutes away.


Specs: Cranking Amps:690; Cold Cranking Amps:550
Voltage:12
Termination:Common Code M
Weight (lbs):46.3; Width (in):6.88; Length (in):11.00; Height (in):9.50
ReserveCapacity:140 amph

WET

Thanks all for the discussions, suggestions and links. Given cost and charging system it does seem wet is best as long as it is on our "Check-list" of things to monitor.


Also saw this:

This Battery Will Self-Destruct in 30 Minutes


This Battery Will Self-Destruct in 30 Minutes - Science Friday

Cheers all,

Bruce
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Old 08-13-2016, 01:18 AM   #25
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ReserveCapacity:140 amph

Note: Reserve Capacity and amp hours are not the same. Reserve Capacity is the time a battery will deliver 25 amps at 80 deg F before dropping to 10.6 volts, and is given in minutes.

Amp hours is the time a battery will give useful amps over a period of time. Once again useful amperage is considered exhausted when the battery drops to 10.5 volts. The standard test for deep cycle batteries is 20 hours. As an example, in the standard 20 hour test, if a battery is listed as 100 ah@ 20 hrs, that battery theoretically will produce 5 amps continuously for 20 hours. (100 ah/20 hrs)

Whether or not the amp hour rating is listed on the battery, it is best to check with the seller, and have him show you the spec sheet. At the top of the amp hour column there should be a note indicating the test hours. If you can't certify that the AH is based on a 20 hour test you can go by the reserve capacity by multiplying it by .61. This will give you a fair approximation of the 20 hr amp hour rating.

I'd be cautious of any seller that can't give you the information you need to make a fair comparison of batteries.



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Old 08-13-2016, 08:18 AM   #26
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Re-thinking Interstate

Hi all,

I am re-thinking the Interstate battery.
Canceling that order.

Byron said he uses Trojan (he indicated 100 APH). I called the Batteries Unlimited shop just to the south of us and the fellow indicated he could get one in a few days. However, he indicated that he has "Better luck" with RV owners using DEKA wet cell deep cycles both the 27 and 31 types are used.

The Trojans are a lot more $ and have not lasted any longer than the Deka.

I will use recycle/the old Scamp battery (24EV) for our small boat trolling motor as long as it lasts.

Bruce
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Old 08-16-2016, 05:00 PM   #27
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I've been looking at batteries as well and what I've come up with is 2 6V batteries that they use for golf carts etc.. seems a lot of people go this way and get way more time out of the batteries
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Old 08-16-2016, 06:37 PM   #28
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Bruce,

I ran across an interesting thread about batteries and discharge rates some time back:

https://www.physicsforums.com/thread...attery.482113/

There are several threads on FGRV that discuss how to get an alternator's power delivered more efficiently to the trailer's battery. There are also several threads that mention Peukert's curve.

Personally, I am still at the stage of trying to better understand "what I have" with my substantially stock Casita. (This actually applies to all of the trailer's appliances, equipment and systems.)

The battery is an newer Interstate Group 27 with about 95AH capacity, same as was supplied stock.

I am currently focusing on small incremental changes with a focus on the "load side" of the equation.

I have installed LED lamps which use about 16% of the power of the stock incandescent lamps. I have also mounted a Hella marine fan on a small plywood base. It can be very effective while drawing substantially less power than the Fantastic fan; it uses about 40% of the Fantastic Fans' low-speed draw.

Most batteries generally have a broadly similar capacity per a given volume (which correlates to weight). So, adding additional capacity whether by battery, solar or generator, can quickly become expensive in terms of money, weight, and space.

You might be able to acquire some "additional capacity" by monitoring and adjusting the loads and usage.

I'm sort of thinking like Jimmy Carter in his cardigan sweater here...
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