Battery bypass switch - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-02-2012, 02:12 PM   #1
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Battery bypass switch

I have a 19' escape with a group 27 12v battery on a bypass switch.

The switch is under the dinette and I snapped the toggle off the switch. I was looking to replace it and looking for replacements I saw that there are switches with capacities from 20 amps to 1000 amps.

My question is: Will a 20amp switch work or should I go higher?

Thanks
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Old 06-02-2012, 04:00 PM   #2
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Remove the broken switch and find a replacement just like it.
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Old 06-02-2012, 04:04 PM   #3
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The broken switch should have an amperage rating marked on it. You will need to meet or exceed that rating.
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Old 06-02-2012, 04:27 PM   #4
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I pulled it and unfortunately the only marking on it is "made in Taiwan".

I was hoping someone here might might know what is needed.

Thanks
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Old 06-02-2012, 04:47 PM   #5
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Here is what I used for a battery switch:

Heavy Duty Battery Cutoff Switch

It is possible that you don't need one this heavy duty, but I'm not familiar with your trailer and what currents the switch has to handle.
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Old 06-02-2012, 05:09 PM   #6
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100 amp is the norm- see here
Battery Cut Off Switch: BatteryMart.com
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Old 06-02-2012, 05:18 PM   #7
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Autozone sells a 50 amp rated toggle. That's what I installed in my Casita and it's worked fine. I don't think you're ever going to need anything with that much current capacity but it can't hurt.
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Old 06-02-2012, 05:44 PM   #8
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Simply look at the size of the main fuse. It's a 20 Amp then you don't need a switch rated any higher. If it's a 30 Amp, same thing. You can use a higher rated switch but not a lower than the main fuse.
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Old 06-02-2012, 05:55 PM   #9
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Thanks for all the replies. I think I'll go with This one:


Heavy Duty Master Disconnect Switch: BatteryMart.com

Only because it looks like it might be hard to break...

Byron, your point about the fuse is good. I should have thought of that!
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Old 06-02-2012, 06:10 PM   #10
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I'd like to post a word of caution here. When you disconnect the battery in your trailer for any reason, then some time later reconnect, via switch or removing batter, etc. I suggest you be careful doing so. When the battery is disconnected your propane detector is non-functional. Therefore it's a good idea to take a good smell inside the trailer before connecting the batter or plugging into shore power. Leave the propane tank valve closed until the propane detector is fully rest and functioning.

Just a couple of easy things to do that could prevent some major problems.

This isn't meant to scare anybody but simple to remind everybody that without battery power the propane detector in NOT functioning.
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Old 06-02-2012, 08:13 PM   #11
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Which do you have, a Bypass or cut off switch?
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Old 06-02-2012, 10:19 PM   #12
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Battery Switch & Propane Detector

Quote:
Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman View Post
I'd like to post a word of caution here. When you disconnect the battery in your trailer for any reason, then some time later reconnect, via switch or removing batter, etc. I suggest you be careful doing so.
This isn't meant to scare anybody but simple to remind everybody that without battery power the propane detector in NOT functioning.
Are you sure???
In my trailer, with the battery in place, I can turn the battery cutoff switch to the off position and the propane detector still works. It is my understanding that this is part of the "code" that trailer builders must follow.

If the detector isn't powered with just the switch turned off, then I would think that it is wired incorrectly. YMMV.....
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Old 06-02-2012, 10:24 PM   #13
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It should still work if you are using shore power and your converter supplies 12VDC.
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Old 06-02-2012, 10:36 PM   #14
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Maybe mine is different but the detector works with or without shore power being hooked up so the converter really doesn't play a part in it other than keeping the battery charged.

I use my trailer on just the battery quite often and the detector is always operational. It is wired so that it is directly fed from the battery.
YMMV.....
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