Battery drain - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 11-01-2002, 03:57 PM   #15
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battery drain

Morgan:

According to Magna tek ads the charging capacity is 6-12 amps depending on the converter model, for converters rated at 25-45amps. But you say:

"up to 25 amps is available to charge the battery".

Please don't think I'm being critical here, I'm trying to clear the fog of confusion. But I don't think ALL the 12v power thats 'converted' is available for charging, is it?

(I'm not brave enuf to try the propane test.....U Da Man!!)
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Old 11-01-2002, 04:08 PM   #16
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Quote:
Orginally posted by PineConeDon

Morgan:

According to Magna tek ads the charging capacity is 6-12 amps depending on the converter model, for converters rated at 25-45amps. But you say:

"up to 25 amps is available to charge the battery".

Please don't think I'm being critical here, I'm trying to clear the fog of confusion. But I don't think ALL the 12v power thats 'converted' is available for charging, is it?

(I'm not brave enuf to try the propane test.....U Da Man!!)
Don,

I don't know what to tell you about Magnatek ads. Here is my copy of the old converter (6300) manual that came with my Casita. Maybe this will help:


<img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3dc2fb01d643f6300pg1.jpg/>

<img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3dc2fb4b654686300pg2.jpg/>
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Old 11-01-2002, 04:28 PM   #17
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It looks like I was wrong again, this is what I read on the converter:

<img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3dc2ff8249586converter.jpg/>

Trouble is, that's on a decal I added as part of the upgrade to the 7345. :bh My converter will charge at up to 45 amps, yours is probably less.
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Old 11-01-2002, 05:37 PM   #18
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battery drain

Morgan:

.........so the wiring from the converter to your battery must be able to handle 45amps?! Guess I've got an old model.
======
I'm finding there's a lot of performance differences just in the different MagneTek converters that will fit in the Casita.
======

The site below has a diagram that may be how the (old) Magnetek converter works.

http://www.amplepower.com/apps/converter/index.html

Thanks for your posting of the MagneTek manual. I've been 'building' a Casita manual.

We've chewed on this subject quite a bit, I'm gonna give it a rest.
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Old 11-01-2002, 05:48 PM   #19
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Quote:
Orginally posted by PineConeDon

Morgan:

.........so the wiring from the converter to your battery must be able to handle 45amps?! Guess I've got an old model.
======
I didn't say that, Don. We were discussing converters, not wiring. Don't get me started on Casita wiring, that got me in big trouble over on Casita Club.
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Old 11-02-2002, 02:09 AM   #20
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Magnatek

Charles, one can't say " a Magnatek" will do something without naming the exact model and options. Kinda like saying "a Casita is 13' long and has an airconditioner".

That's why I recommend any specific questions should be referred to Magnatek with model number in hand, esp about battery charging over long periods (1-800-848-0934 is the most recent number I have scrawled in my Scamp manual -- my late Magnatek was a 3200, with code C B, 20Amp not smart).

It might help to think of all this charging and use stuf as water levels; when the converter "pump" is on, it sends water to all appliances which have been "lowered" a little by switching them on. The less charged the battery is, the lower it is. When nothing is on, all the water is available for the battery. When the converter is unplugged, the effect is like raising the battery so water can flow from it to whatever is on, but when the converter is switched back on, the converter is higher than the battery and the water again flows back to the battery to replenish it.

In reality, the converter is putting out more than 12VDC, and the amount which flows to the battery is in part dependent on how low the battery has been drained, as evidenced by its voltage. All the so-called capacity meters are merely voltmeters calibrated to a percent level of discharge.

Pete and Rats
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Old 11-02-2002, 10:47 AM   #21
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Specifics

Hey, Pete! Right on about taking specific questions to the manufacturer. But thank goodness for you and Don and Morgan (and anybody else who’s into it) discussing how these electrical contraptions work – so people like me, who don’t know enough about it to even ask an intelligent question, can begin to get a basic understanding.

I mean, it took me, what, three years (!) to understand that the filtered DC circuits were the ones coming direct from the battery instead of the MagneTek 63xx series converter.
:spin
Of course, if there’s no such thing as a stupid question, is there any such thing as an intelligent question? (Or was that already on the oxymorons list?)
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Old 11-02-2002, 01:31 PM   #22
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questions

Never stopped to really consider it before, but my thoughts are:

Questions are relative to the questioner, questionee and listeners.

If the question has already been answered, or is intuitively obvious to the listeners, or is way below the current level of discussion (it becomes a so-called "stupid" question in the eyes of questionee or listeners, but not to the questioner who is seeking the knowledge, hence the phrase "no such thing as a stupid question").

If the question regards an area not yet covered, or missed, by the questionee, it becomes a "good" question.

If the question throws the whole subject into a different persective, momentarily (or truly) stumping the questionee and listeners, it becomes an "intelligent" question.

Feel free to disregard any or all points above!

Pete and RatLadies
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Old 04-03-2003, 10:19 AM   #23
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What am I missing?

Some of you say you don't have a battery for extended times.

My 3W Dometic fridge will not run without a battery - I believe it requires a DC ignitor.

Is my set-up different?




(I'm embarrassed to think that I never read this thread until now.....)
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Old 04-03-2003, 04:44 PM   #24
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I dunno the answer to your question, as my battery does not have a refrigerator attached to it, much less a DC igniter. Further, I do not know how the igniter works, altho I suspect the actual spark is high-voltage to jump the gap, just as in an automotive spark plug.

However, it's not a big trick for the electronics on the reefer to have a sub-circuit to provide DC where it is needed. In "anchored" homes with late-model Viking ranges, there is auto-ignition and I don't believe there is a battery...

Pete and Rats who don't like sparks
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Old 04-04-2003, 07:28 AM   #25
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>>3W Dometic fridge will not run without a battery

Larger refrigerators (like the one in your BF) have built-in circuit boards that require dc power to work.

Smaller ones, like in the new Scamps and Casitas, don't have circuit boards or auto-reignitors, so don't require dc power.

For years, off and on, I've run the refrigerator late fall/early spring while the trailer's still winterized, with the battery removed. No problem.
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Old 04-04-2003, 08:14 AM   #26
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I agree with that, Charles. when I took my ref. out. it only had 110 plugged in and propane hook-up. no 12v connection. but there was a 12v mark on the knob for selection. I later noticed little wires all taped off. they must not have liked the 12v system and disconnected it. ref was still getting cool on 110 when I got it. no propane to check that part though. :lol. maybe the 12v requirement is for those with the electric starter, and mine doesn't have that. (did someone already say this? it sounds familiar!!)
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