Boler 13 kitchen base removal (with 3-way fridge). I'd love to hear any tips! - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV

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Old 09-10-2010, 08:17 PM   #15
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Trailer: 1977 Boler
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Ours had no fasteners holding the two pipes together, just friction. We had already removed the sink, so being able to hit at the furnace from behind did the trick. It took a mallet, a lot of noise, and stopping after a few hits to pull from the front.

:: photos of our latest Boler progress (or lack thereof) here ::
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Old 09-10-2010, 08:23 PM   #16
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Trailer: 1974 Boler 13 ft (Neonex/Winnipeg)
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Aha! I was planning to leave the sink in place but... I may have to re-think that. Tapping on the furnace from behind (okay, banging on it) is a good idea.

Funny but I was just looking at your "demo" photos and thinking about sending you a PM. Thanks for piping in


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Old 09-13-2010, 01:45 PM   #17
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Hi Raya,

The furnace pipes were also stuck on my furnace, which is an old Wagion Master 6000 gravity type. I released them (there were 2, one concentric within the outer one) by banging on the pipe near the exhaust vent with a rubber hammer (not hard enough to dent it). When the furnace came off, one of the pipes was stuck to the exhaust vent, and one to the furnace body. It was just rust holding it together, no fasteners. I also took my sink out to make the whole thing easier to get at.

I wonder if your furnace body is catching on the temperature sensor that is attached to the controller with a thin metal capillary tube? It often hangs around the front of the furnace and can get in the way.

Hope that helps,
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Old 09-13-2010, 03:52 PM   #18
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Trailer: 1979 13 ft Boler, 1987 & 1988 Bigfoot 5th Wheel
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Told ya so........

That was the hardest part.
1979 Boler B1300 | 1987 Bigfoot 5th Wheel | 1988 Bigfoot 5th Wheel | We officially have a collection!
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Old 09-13-2010, 09:48 PM   #19
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Old 09-26-2010, 07:58 PM   #20
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Trailer: 1974 Boler 13 ft (Neonex/Winnipeg)
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Just thought I'd update because I did remove the furnace today (Suburban GT3). I did not need to remove the sink. I sprayed some corrosion inhibitor into the space between the two pipes to help them separate, and then tapped (firmly!) on the back of the furnace unit with a hammer.

The pipes started to separate right away, but I had to keep tapping for the whole 8" or so that the pipes overlapped. There was only light surface-type rust, but it was a friction fit that had been in place for 30+ years. I spent about ten minutes today getting it out (thanks to the info in this thread, I went in with a plan )

If I can only find a burner for it (have not been able to find one ), I will reinstall it (or a whole 'nother Suburban GT3, if anyone has one they would like to sell).


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