brakes - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 06-09-2016, 01:40 AM   #29
Senior Member
 
Carol H's Avatar
 
Name: Carol
Trailer: 22' Airstream Formerly 16' Scamp
British Columbia
Posts: 11,731
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Finner View Post
Carol the WDH does a fantastic job of evening the weight across the entire rig and even the weight out so that less is on the back wheels of the tow vehicle. If the trailer is large or small they help a ton. With a small trailer typically a smaller tow vehicle is used which will have a much lighter rear suspension than a larger vehicle. An appropriately sized WDH makes a huge difference to any unit. I have a good friend in Calgary that has a boler that he pulls with a 1980 VW diesel rabbit. When he added a small stabilizer hitch and said it made a huge difference. There must be some on here using a weight distribution hitch on a small trailer that can back me up.
I am very familiar with what a WDH hitch does..... have used them in the past and currently on a MUCH heavier trailer.

A WDH is used to transfer the weight of the hitch off the rear of the vehicle to the front axle of the vehicle as well as back to the axle of the trailer. Why anyone would/should feel they need to use one on a trailer with only a 200lb tongue weight begs one to seriously question the reasons why. I suspect most would suggest the likely reason for it would be due to the use of a highly ill matched tow vehicle.

I do not think that there are many if any WDH options available with bars that are light enough for me to feel comfortable using on a trailer with only a 200lb or lighter tongue weight on a 30 year old riveted figerglass trailer with an equally as old frame. Would be scared to transfer any weight back onto a 30 plus year old axle that is probable already under rated and overloaded. Would be scared of the all to real reality of it popping rivets out of the trailer and snapping the old frame or hitch receiver in half (assuming it has not been properly reinforced for the use of a WDH) on the first bumpy/rutted road I took it down due to the added stiffness and stress created by the WDH bars.

Your friend BTW with the 1980 Rabbit pulling the Boler appears to be as equally familiar with the ramifications of towing chooses made as yourself. He would be well advised to discuss his set up with Andy Thompson of Can-Am (if he has not already) in regards to the issues with putting over rated WDH only on his VW. Andy is well respected in regards to ALL that needs to be added and changed to set up a unconventional tow vehicles.

A good read is On The Topic of Equalizer Hitches
__________________

Carol H is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2016, 01:59 AM   #30
Junior Member
 
Name: Daren
Trailer: 1985 19' Bigfoot tandem axle
Alberta
Posts: 14
Wow it sounds like you have had some very substandard road hazards as trailers. I sure hope for the safety of everyone on the road you no longer run a trailer with such weak frame and axles that they can not handle a appropriately sized WDH as the weight it will transfer is very small compared to what the trailer is built to handle. That is if the trailer is still safe which it sounds like yours were not.

On the discussion of my friend Greg (rabbit/boler combo) and his set up he is a structural engineer that is the most anal person I know. He spins wrenches as a hobby and rebuilt both his rabbit and boler from the ground up fabricating a whole new frame for the boler and making modifications to the rabbit to beef it up. From what you mention about the weak structure of the trailers you would choose to use I suggest you worry about yourself and not what others are doing.
__________________

__________________
Finner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2016, 02:27 AM   #31
Senior Member
 
Carol H's Avatar
 
Name: Carol
Trailer: 22' Airstream Formerly 16' Scamp
British Columbia
Posts: 11,731
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Finner View Post
Hi Carol,

Not sure why you would say I am unaware unless you responded without reading the thread. I mention very clearly in a later post that Alberta has the strictest laws that I am aware of in Canada by requiring brakes if trailers are over 2,000lbs.

Not exactly sure why you are hammering me while all I am doing is stating what runs well below laws and requirements set out by the RVDA.
I have read the whole thread and did indeed see that you did acknowledge Alberta requires brakes on trailers of 2000lbs - BUT not that Alberta also requires brakes on the trailer if it weighs more than 50% of the weight of the vehicle pulling it and NOT until the regulations where pointed out to you by another member long after you made the recommendation to the OP they forget about getting brakes on their trailer and acknowledged having run your own trailer that weighs over 2000lbs without brakes without a problem!

A recommendation that gave little consideration to what the OP's trailer may ACTUALLY weigh loaded, or the weight of his vehicle or what the laws of their province &/or state might be, important facts to know!

You also in your original recommendation choose to over look the fact that some provinces do require a brake away system on any trailer of 2000lbs or more and its a good bet once loaded the OP's trailer will weigh close to if not over 2000lbs. Like others here I am not aware of any such system that does not involve the trailer having its own brakes. Some provinces also BTW require a brake away system on ANY trailer that is equipped with brakes. Best to read the full and actual requirements from your own provinces website and not count on condensed version of the towing brake regulations on sites such a RIVA or AAA which frequently contain errors & omissions.

I am aware of many much lighter trailers having a brake away systems but that is due to the fact that in some provinces any commercially used trailer is required by law to have them. You say there is a emergancy brake away system that is available that is for emergency use only. Like others I am wondering how that works if the trailer does not have brakes. Perhaps you could take the time to educate us all and provide a link to information on how such a system works without the trailer having its own brakes. Enquiring minds want to know.

Not hammering you, just wanting the OP who is new to towing to be giving factual, sound and safe advise.
Carol H is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2016, 02:30 AM   #32
Senior Member
 
Borrego Dave's Avatar
 
Name: Dave
Trailer: Casita SD17 2006
California
Posts: 2,920
Quote:
Originally Posted by Finner View Post
Carol the WDH does a fantastic job of evening the weight across the entire rig and even the weight out so that less is on the back wheels of the tow vehicle. If the trailer is large or small they help a ton. With a small trailer typically a smaller tow vehicle is used which will have a much lighter rear suspension than a larger vehicle. An appropriately sized WDH makes a huge difference to any unit. I have a good friend in Calgary that has a boler that he pulls with a 1980 VW diesel rabbit. When he added a small stabilizer hitch and said it made a huge difference. There must be some on here using a weight distribution hitch on a small trailer that can back me up.
I totally understand the use of a WDH with a larger TT. I use one on a larger sticky but on a 13'er, no way. Using a small tug, close or over it's tow ratings with what I see as a bandage, makes no sense to me. I too would be interested to know how many folks tow a 13'er with a WDH and what tug they use. Wonder if they used a WDH on the Toyo to pull the space shuttle .
__________________
Borrego Dave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2016, 02:36 AM   #33
Senior Member
 
Carol H's Avatar
 
Name: Carol
Trailer: 22' Airstream Formerly 16' Scamp
British Columbia
Posts: 11,731
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Finner View Post
Wow it sounds like you have had some very substandard road hazards as trailers. I sure hope for the safety of everyone on the road you no longer run a trailer with such weak frame and axles that they can not handle a appropriately sized WDH as the weight it will transfer is very small compared to what the trailer is built to handle. That is if the trailer is still safe which it sounds like yours were not.


Once again as you know nothing of the age, makes, size or condition of my previous or current trailer or the condition of the OP's trailer for that matter, I think perhaps you need to just stick to the known facts when making recommendations!
Carol H is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2016, 07:15 AM   #34
Senior Member
 
Roy in TO's Avatar
 
Name: Roy
Trailer: 1972 boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Ontario
Posts: 4,954
I'm a little confused over the use of a stabilizer hitch and WDH being used interchangeably. Although there are some units that combine both, IMO they are separate entities.

Weight Distribution / Sway Control | Product Categories | Husky Towing
Quote:
Where weight distribution addresses up and down concerns, sway control promotes stability by slowing side to side movement often caused by windy conditions & passing vehicles
For me, my Ranger stops better towing the boler or Trillium with brakes than it does on its own. Although I like to think that I'm a safe driver giving extra room while towing etc. ... there has been more than one situation an evasive manouver has resulted in trailer sway (tail wagging the dog). Having the ability to correct that with the manual control has helped in regaining control.
__________________
Roy in TO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2016, 10:11 AM   #35
Senior Member
 
Jon in AZ's Avatar
 
Name: Jon
Trailer: 2008 Scamp 13 S1
Arizona
Posts: 5,562
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by morgynm View Post
...Can controllers be moved to different vehicles? In the next two or three years, my beloved Vibe will need to eventually be replaced. Would I be able to move the controller to, say, an Outback?
The controller can, but you'll have to start over with the brake line, which is likely a good part of the labor for this install.

That very issue influenced our decision to trade in our much loved and reliable Toyota Sienna van a little earlier than planned. It was close enough to the end of its lifespan that the cost of needed towing upgrades (transmission cooler, 4-pin to 7-pin wiring, and Class I to Class III receiver) just didn't make sense. We purchased a Pilot, which came standard with everything we needed, including the brake wiring.
__________________
Jon in AZ is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2016, 10:38 AM   #36
Senior Member
 
Keaner's Avatar
 
Name: Joe
Trailer: 1973 13' Boler
Ontario
Posts: 180
Morgynm, I'm still confused on exactly what you're getting for your money.
I'm familiar with vehicle wiring and braking systems and something here doesn't seem right.
Prior to committing, ask the mechanic for a written quote listing part numbers and post here... we'll be able to help you better.
__________________
Keaner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2016, 10:45 AM   #37
Senior Member
 
Name: Steve
Trailer: Scamp 13
California
Posts: 1,418
I use a Prodigy RF controller on my Scamp 13. I personally have a choice of 4 different tugs to tow my trailer. I can also loan my trailer to my sister and brother without the need of hooking up a controller to each one.

The control unit plugs into a cigarette lighter. Each car has to have a 7 pin receptacle with brake, turn and marker lights and a power wire and ground but no controller or blue electric brake wire. Battery charge wires are up to you if you want to include them.

The actual brake control box mounts to the tongue of the trailer and stays with the trailer. The 7 pin cord on the trailer plugs into the control box mounted on the tongue. The cord from the control box plugs into your car or truck, whatever your choice of tug.

No issues with trying to find a place to mount a controller in the car let alone several of them. Get a new car have a 7 pin receptacle installed and plug in the RF controller and you're off and running.

This has worked very well for me for the last 4 years or so. It is an expensive option.
__________________
stevebaz is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2016, 11:14 AM   #38
Senior Member
 
Carol H's Avatar
 
Name: Carol
Trailer: 22' Airstream Formerly 16' Scamp
British Columbia
Posts: 11,731
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevebaz View Post
I use a Prodigy RF controller on my Scamp 13. I personally have a choice of 4 different tugs to tow my trailer. I can also loan my trailer to my sister and brother without the need of hooking up a controller to each one.


No issues with trying to find a place to mount a controller in the car let alone several of them. Get a new car have a 7 pin receptacle installed and plug in the RF controller and you're off and running.

This has worked very well for me for the last 4 years or so. It is an expensive option.

Sure sounds like a good option for someone such as the OP who does not tow with a vehicle that has a brake controller wiring from the factory and may be considering a new vehicle that also does not.

Currently E-trailer has the Prodigy RF on sale for US$308.95 (C$391.00).

That's a little more than half of the total cost the OP has been quoted to set his current car up with a wired brake controller BUT in the long run it may save him the cost of having a brake controller line added to any future vehicles he buys.

I know that the cost of having a brake controller line only(charge lines, 7 pin harness etc was all extra) to my Subaru Outback cost me about C$200 several years ago. Suspect the cost (labour time) of adding the line will vary from car to car depending on the difficulty of getting the line through the firewall.

The OP would still need to have the vehicles factory 4 pin upgraded to a 7 pin but thats usually not an overly expensive part of the wiring job... in fact lots of people have been known to be able to do that themselves after purchasing the harness from E-trailer.
Carol H is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2016, 01:36 PM   #39
Senior Member
 
morgynm's Avatar
 
Name: Morgyn
Trailer: Boler
Nova Scotia
Posts: 165
Quote:
Originally Posted by Keaner View Post
Morgynm, I'm still confused on exactly what you're getting for your money.

I'm familiar with vehicle wiring and braking systems and something here doesn't seem right.

Prior to committing, ask the mechanic for a written quote listing part numbers and post here... we'll be able to help you better.

The bulk of the cost is the labour. It's $125/hour at the RV place. They're also getting rid of the odd looking capped gooseneck propane pipe for me that the previous owners left when they took out the heater. I've been wanting it out for two years now! I could do it myself but I'm not taking a chance with propane pipes. So there's an additional odd job they're doing that goes into the initial cost.


Sent from my iPad using Fiberglass RV
__________________
morgynm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2016, 03:39 PM   #40
Senior Member
 
Keaner's Avatar
 
Name: Joe
Trailer: 1973 13' Boler
Ontario
Posts: 180
Quote:
Originally Posted by morgynm View Post
The bulk of the cost is the labour. It's $125/hour at the RV place. They're also getting rid of the odd looking capped gooseneck propane pipe for me that the previous owners left when they took out the heater. I've been wanting it out for two years now! I could do it myself but I'm not taking a chance with propane pipes. So there's an additional odd job they're doing that goes into the initial cost.


Sent from my iPad using Fiberglass RV
RV shops are known to be expensive..maybe a 2nd opinion?
__________________
Keaner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2016, 05:32 PM   #41
Senior Member
 
Carol H's Avatar
 
Name: Carol
Trailer: 22' Airstream Formerly 16' Scamp
British Columbia
Posts: 11,731
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Keaner View Post
RV shops are known to be expensive..maybe a 2nd opinion?
U-Haul would be good option for getting a quote on running the wire for the controller and installing of the seven pin hitch.
Carol H is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2016, 05:53 PM   #42
Junior Member
 
Name: Sarah
Trailer: 1974 Trillium 13'
Massachusetts
Posts: 6
Our set-up (Toyota Corolla + 13 ft. Trillium) is very similar to yours and we had the same brake set up youíre describing put in about 9 months ago. It was a longer installation because they had to run wires in the car for the 7 pin connector and the brake controller. Our carís manual recommends trailer brakes for anything over 1000 lbs.

I canít comment on the pricing since we had ours done in Massachusetts at a welder who specializes in hitch installations. The RV place might be more pricey, but weíve never actually gone to one, so Iím not sure.

Our tongue weight before the battery box and platform were added was actually low even for our smaller tow vehicle (and isnít high even with those items), so I would be wary of a hitch that took weight off of the tongue and redistributed it. (Doesnít sound like youíre considering that either, just commenting since it was mentioned several times in the thread.)
__________________

__________________
SarahC is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
brakes


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
brakes or no brakes Penney H. & Mike E. Towing, Hitching, Axles and Running Gear 17 08-13-2007 03:35 PM
Brakes for U-Haul? Jim C. Towing, Hitching, Axles and Running Gear 21 12-02-2005 07:27 AM
Trailer Brakes Legacy Posts Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 32 05-25-2003 08:10 AM
Wiring the Electric Brakes Legacy Posts Modifications, Alterations and Updates 2 05-07-2003 01:04 PM
Wiring and brakes Legacy Posts Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 1 04-06-2003 02:39 PM

» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.
» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:23 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.